Removing Window Frames

[Jimmie]

Looking for suggestions from those with experience.

I took the windows out of the two doors of my 50 Champion to have the glass replaced. It had been replaced between the time I sold it in 92 and when I bought it back in 07. (One is cracked and the other is scratched.) These are small matters compared to everything else I have had to "fix."

The fellow at the Auto Glass Repair Garage called to say that he cannot get the glass out[:0] of the bottom frames nor the stainless parts that will ultimately rest against the wing windows. He said that he didn't want to damage any of it and wants me to try to get it apart. He had the two pieces cut and I had to pay the same price when I left[:0] as though he had installed the glass with the understanding that when I get the old glass out that he will put the new in. Hope he keeps his word!

I brought them home and put lots of "Blaster" penetrating oil along each side of the glasses where the metal pieces hold the glass. Hope to be able to take them apart tomorrow.

He also couldn't get the two screws out that hold the stainless part to the bottom frame on each one.[xx(]

Any suggestions will be appreciated.

Jimmie
Orleans, Indiana


1950 CHAMPION -ORANGE COUNTY, INDIANA

[Michidan]

Hi Jimmie,
I will reply although not sure I can help. I redid all the windows in my hardtop, and what seems like a simple enough task actually took many hours. Some little flathead screws would not come out, and there isn't much else to do but drill them out,and try not to damage the threads in the frame.
I actually had more trouble in assembly than dis-assembly. The new rubbers are plenty thick. Even with a lot of assembly lube it was extrenely hard to get everything back together.

https://www.studebakerhardtop.com

[rockne10]

Those stainless edges must come off to permit proper reassembly. If you've already soaked them, you can try applying heat with one of those small pencil torches. Heat the steel part that holds the threads. If you can get it to expand a fraction you may be able to get the screws out. Re-tap the threads. Definitely plan on new screws. Failing that, as Dan indicated, you will probably need to drill them out. Use a very small drill and, once apart, re-tap the threads.

While it's apart, do replace the L whisker with new (available at many Stude vendors). The little stainless cap at the top is also available (I have two if you need them) but, note it is spot welded stainless to stainless; best to not mess with it if you don't need to.

Brad Johnson
Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
'33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight, '53 Commander Starlight

[Jimmie]

Thanks for your input. I finally got the frames off etc. this afternoon. I ground the screw heads off flush and after getting the frames off I drilled the small bolts out starting with a tiny bit and gradually moved up to the size hole I needed for tapping. Of course this was tedious but not as hard as getting the bottom of the frames off the glass. I think that the tar like substance that was used created a vacuum because when I would get the frames pulled away a little they would go back in place when I let go. In my struggle to get the frame off one I broke the glass off near the frame so I just used a screwdriver the right width and gradually worked all the tar and glass out of the groove. The small pieces at the top are both broken off at the weld spot so I am hoping to apply some good adhesive and insert them in place when everything else is done. Brad, I may want to get one or both of them from you, depending on how they look when I finally get them back on. One seems to be out of shape and I tried to work with it but am not a body man! I did have the cat whisker and rivets and put them on today too. I had to make a tool to spread the rivets.

Take care,

Jimmie
Orleans, Indiana


1950 CHAMPION -ORANGE COUNTY, INDIANA