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**Tom Bredehoft** · 06-02-2009, 07:02 PM

If there is a possibility that the battery drains down between uses, put a Green Knob switch on the battery. Open it when you leave, close it when you use the car. With it open there will be no electricity lost. I got mine at Menard's for less than $4.00.

[img=left]http://www.alink.com/personal/tbredehoft/Avatar1.jpg[/img=left]
Tom Bredehoft
'53 Commander Coupe (since 1959)
'55 President (6H Y6) State Sedan
(Under Construction 617 hrs.)
'05 Legacy Ltd Wagon
All Indiana built cars

**Mike Van Veghten** · 06-02-2009, 07:12 PM

I receintly had the exactly the same problem with my 54 Conestoga I-6.
I replaced the brushes, bushings were good, new solenoid, checked starter switch..."nuthin" worked.
Shorting the solenoid just like you did...all worked well. Fought this for weeks.

I finally got tired of everything...ran two 16g wires inside the car, bought a new momentary switch...inserted it into an existing hole in the dash...connected everything up (main battery power to solenoid energizer post)...starts better than it has the whole 4 years I've owned it.

I figure it's got to be a broken wire (white w/red doted stripes) somewhere in the harness.
I believe this because...after thinking about it a while, I realized that the starting has gotten progressivly slower over time. This leads me to believe that somewhere in the harness is a flex/vibration point where the wire has gotten progressivly worse and worser...until, there's not enough wire size to allow enough amps to go thru it.
The one size larger 16g VS. 18g and full size wire...really woke up the starting system.

For what its worth...I'll be replacing the entire harness when I install the 299cu. in V-8.

Good luck.

Mike

**Lark Parker** · 06-02-2009, 07:15 PM

Any chance that you have a 12 Volt solenoid now?
I would be tempted to try the old solenoid since it started better by jumping the new solenoid than by the switch.

LP

**Swifster** · 06-02-2009, 07:20 PM

Along with what Mike mentioned, check out the ground cable. Corrosion can really limit the current going to or from the battery. Heck, even cleaning the terminals might make a world of difference.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Tom - Mulberry, FL

1964 Studebaker Daytona - 289 4V, 4-Speed (Cost To Date: $2125.60)

1964 Studebaker Commander 170-1V, 3-speed w/OD (Cost to Date: $623.67)

**whacker** · 06-02-2009, 08:10 PM

Sounds like starter bushings to me. When they wear a little bit, they really increase internal friction in the starter. With all the stress on one end they tend to let the armature get crooked, and that causes the sort of problem you are looking at. On a six volt system, you should run a 0 to 1 Ga. ground wire directly to one of the starter mounting holes from the battery, to be sure you get a good ground.

**buddymander** · 06-02-2009, 08:10 PM

Did you blast out the starter with compressed air? Did you run 400# sandpaper on the armature where the brushes ride?

**Edsel G. Tattooer** · 06-02-2009, 08:53 PM

quote:Originally posted by buddymander

Did you blast out the starter with compressed air? Did you run 400# sandpaper on the armature where the brushes ride?

Well no I didn't, I cleaned the armature there was a little shellacking from age and I just cleaned it off I didnt shine up the armature at all But I will now.

Ground Cable is New and I will check and clean it to be safe.

Also What should I lube the bushings with?
And How do you get the nose bushing out?

BTW I do have a new wire harness. But I need to put it in.[V] So I hope What I am doing right now (at this moment)will work. So I can get it off the street and back home to put the harness in it.

My darn impatiences is showing.

Well Back to midnight auto for me.

**Edsel G. Tattooer** · 06-02-2009, 08:54 PM

quote:Originally posted by Lark Parker

Any chance that you have a 12 Volt solenoid now?
I would be tempted to try the old solenoid since it started better by jumping the new solenoid than by the switch.

LP

No It is a 6v OEM Stude part

**rusty nut garage** · 06-03-2009, 05:21 AM

take the starter to an auto electric rebuilder. For a minimal fee he should be able to bench check if for you. It doesn't take alot of wear on the bushings to cause a dragging starter as previous posters mentioned. Also check the size and condition of your battery cables, don't buy cables at your flaps, have your electrical rebuilder make you a set. BIG cables for the 6volt stuff.
You got a multimeter, check the voltage at the solenoid making sure your getting close to 6volts to energize the solenoid. Get some test leads and learn to short the solonoid or go directly on your starter with your jumper cables. Jump starting 6 volt positive gnd could get intresting, I'd have to research how to do that.
Good Luck
Russ

quote:Originally posted by Edsel G. Tattooer

quote:Originally posted by Lark Parker

Any chance that you have a 12 Volt solenoid now?
I would be tempted to try the old solenoid since it started better by jumping the new solenoid than by the switch.

LP

No It is a 6v OEM Stude part

Russ Shop Foreman "Rusty Nut Garage"
53 2R6 289 5SpdOD (driver)
57 SH (project)
60 Lark VIII 2dr sd (driver)

**Mike Van Veghten** · 06-03-2009, 10:51 AM

Bench check...nominal fee....bah...

Just connect the negitive (OR positive...doesn't matter.!) cable to the power terminal and the other cable to the body of the starer...it should spin like crazy.
Carefull, put your foot on it to hold it down. If your battery's up to full power, the starter will bounce all over if not secured. OR you can do the same thing while bolted up to the engine...

My battery was up to full power and the cables are in very good shape (one is new)...and clean.

Mike

**Edsel G. Tattooer** · 06-03-2009, 11:26 AM

quote:Originally posted by Mike Van Veghten

Bench check...nominal fee....bah...

Just connect the negitive (OR positive...doesn't matter.!) cable to the power terminal and the other cable to the body of the starer...it should spin like crazy.
Carefull, put your foot on it to hold it down. If your battery's up to full power, the starter will bounce all over if not secured. OR you can do the same thing while bolted up to the engine...

My battery was up to full power and the cables are in very good shape (one is new)...and clean.

Mike

That's they way I would do it too. But I think I would hold it between my thighs for a wild ride and a little excitment.

**dictator27** · 06-03-2009, 12:32 PM

Time to put that harness in! How about the floor mounted starter button? What are the wires to it like? Does it get hot quickly when trying to start the car? How about the ground strap from the engine to the frame?

Terry

**buddymander** · 06-03-2009, 01:48 PM

In the aforementioned procedure where you hold the starter between your legs, just exactly where do you connect the jumper cables...

**Edsel G. Tattooer** · 06-04-2009, 02:36 PM

quote:Originally posted by buddymander

In the aforementioned procedure where you hold the starter between your legs, just exactly where do you connect the jumper cables...

Well I wouldn't tell you!

So After I rebuilt the starter and ripped it apart three times to see if I missed anything. I took it to AUTO ELECTRIC SERVICE In Bloomington Mn. They bench tested it it worked fine then they tried it a few more times and then no go.

SO the field coils were bad and shorting against the housing.

A mere $96 dollars lighter and I can now start the car again.

BTW it turns over faster than it ever has. I'm not sure what they did but it sounds like a 12v starter in the car now. He worked magic for me.

THanks for all the help and advise.

Owner of a 1950 4 door Commander

I'll Tattoo you anytime!

you can find me at

Lucky Linda's Body Art 952-445-3281
18 years in the tattooing biz

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