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How do I test the temperature gauge?

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  • How do I test the temperature gauge?

    I had Barney running today and I know I was up to operating temp, but the dash gauge remained unmoving. How would I go about checking to see if it's the gauge or the sensor that's bad? (Or maybe it's the wire...)


    [img=left]http://members.cox.net/clarknovak/lark.gif[/img=left]

    Clark in San Diego
    '63 F2/Lark Standard

    The Official Website of the San Diego Chapter of the Studebaker Drivers Club. Serving San Diego County

    Clark in San Diego | '63 Standard (F2) "Barney" | http://studeblogger.blogspot.com

  • #2
    Clark, take the wire off the sender and ground it. Turn the key on and watch the gauge. It should go all the way to full if the dash gauge is ok. If so then the gauge and wire are good, replace the sender. KP

    Ken Pyle

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    • #3
      Thanks, Ken. I tried this a few minutes ago, and the gauge didn't respond. So I hooked a jumper directly from the gauge to dashboard ground, turned the key, and likewise no action.

      Anyone got a spare, crusty old '63 Lark gauge pod I can scavenge the radimeter out of?


      [img=left]http://members.cox.net/clarknovak/lark.gif[/img=left]

      Clark in San Diego
      '63 F2/Lark Standard

      The Official Website of the San Diego Chapter of the Studebaker Drivers Club. Serving San Diego County

      Clark in San Diego | '63 Standard (F2) "Barney" | http://studeblogger.blogspot.com

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      • #4
        I would check to see if you have power to the gauge,

        GARY H 2DR.SEDAN 48 STUDEBAKER CHAMPION NORTHEAST MD.

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        • #5
          I've got a couple of 63' gage clusters in Mass

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          • #6
            Thanks Jack. I'll take Gary's advice and check the hot lead, then get back with you.


            [img=left]http://members.cox.net/clarknovak/lark.gif[/img=left]

            Clark in San Diego
            '63 F2/Lark Standard

            The Official Website of the San Diego Chapter of the Studebaker Drivers Club. Serving San Diego County

            Clark in San Diego | '63 Standard (F2) "Barney" | http://studeblogger.blogspot.com

            Comment


            • #7
              Finally got a few minutes to check this today.

              Pulled both leads from the back of the gauge and applied 9 volts to the posts. Even though it's not a full 12v, I should still have gotten some movement of the needle, right? (And yes, I did check the polarity of the battery.)

              Since I got no movement, can I safely assume the gauge is non-op?


              [img=left]http://members.cox.net/clarknovak/lark.gif[/img=left]

              Clark in San Diego
              '63 F2/Lark Standard

              The Official Website of the San Diego Chapter of the Studebaker Drivers Club. Serving San Diego County

              Clark in San Diego | '63 Standard (F2) "Barney" | http://studeblogger.blogspot.com

              Comment


              • #8
                Only put the 9v on the IGN post. Then ground the other one. That should cause your needle to move toward hot. Also, make sure the case of the gauge is grounded. If its like earlier guages, there are 2 screws that hold the gauge into the sheet metal "cup" on the back of the cluster. Make sure those are tight and that the cup is tight to the cluster.

                If you have a ohm-meter, you can measure the resistance from the IGN post to ground and also from the IGN post to the sender post. They should both read something like 50-100 ohms but may be more. My experience is with the 6v gauges. 12v ones probably will be a higher resistance I suspect.

                Be aware that the current draw of the gauge may be enough to kill that 9v battery you are using pretty fast!



                Jeff in ND

                '53 Champion Hardtop

                Jeff in ND

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