View Full Version : FOM rebuild -I did it!

12-24-2006, 12:23 AM
Today was a fine day indeed in my shop:D My first attempt at automatic transmission rebuilding was successful, well- at least it went into gear straight off, and drove about 10 miles with no problems. True success will be claimed after about 50,000 miles.
I started this new tread rather than contunue the origanial one dated 11-22-06.
The broken rear servo lever was the tip of the proverable iceberg. As expected, after 165,000 miles, all the O-rings were cooked, and cracked, and all the seals were worn and leaking. The front band was worn so no grooves were left showing, the rear band was OK. The rear clutch pack was cooked, the friction disks were no longer flat and were concaved, and the steel plates were flat and no longer concaved, also the steel plates were blued and had bronze metal transfered onto them. The front clutch was worn as no grooves were left showing on the disks. The govener was gummed up, and the rear pump key was very worn. The control valve had 2 parts in backward, the rear servo check valve, and the inhibitor valve, must have been that way for some time, I was too chicken to take anything other than the 1st / 2nd gear shift valve out the first time in there. I’d guess the rear servo check valve being backward was the possable cause of the failure. I made the rear clutch spring compressor tool from a piece of 1 ½" schedule 40 iron pipe, by cutting away 3 sections lenght wise, leaving 3 legs, (that I bent in a bit) and tack welding a fat washer on top to accept the all-thread rod. The front spring compressor was made up of 3 Vice-grip welding pliers, the “C” jawed kind. Other than that, and the dial indicator and base from harbor freight, it was simple hand tools the rest of the way. The manual walked me through it very well, with one exception, the end thrust measurement method given in the manual seems to be for the long tail shaft model only. On the short tail model, if you pry on the rear between the case and parking pawl engagement ring on the output shaft as directed you do not get an accurate measurement as the rear ball bearing is holding it captave. I pried on the pinion carrier just in front of the specified spot, and got a good measurement, ordered the correct washer, and all was well. The aforementioned makes perfect sense to me, as my head is still filled with visions of flight-o-matics, who needs suger plums anyway. This is a project that can be done by a person with reasonabley good mechanical skills, and a few basic tools. The advice I got was good, take your time, keep it clean and orginised, use no rags, follow the manual, seek advice if in doubt, what I heard most was “keep it clean”. My wife is thrilled to get her car back, and on Christmas no less.

Riverside, Ca.
1957 Provincial X2
1958 Transtar
1963 Lark

12-24-2006, 08:01 AM
Great news. thanks. and what was the URL for that picture site you had?

12-24-2006, 09:13 AM

12-25-2006, 03:37 PM
COOL deal, Ross! I felt confident you could do it.[^]

Miscreant adrift in
the BerStuda Triangle

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe

12-25-2006, 09:32 PM
How long did it take to do? I'm thinking about going through mine while the whole car is apart. I'm debating whether to spend the money and have a shop do it or to see how difficult it is to do myself.

Bob Sporner
Palm Springs, California

12-26-2006, 12:18 AM
Drove it to grandmas house today, no problems, no leaks.

55Prez, here is the link to the pictures, http://new.photos.yahoo.com/r_rither/album/576460762358662284
Or you can click on my home page icon (with the little house) on top of my post, or in my profile, all the pic’s are there, and I will add more as time allows. I had an unfortunate accident with a memory stick where I lost the pictures of the disassembly, and reassembly. O-well, nothing new in those pictures, the manual shows the same thing.

I’d say it took 3 to full 4 days, if I added all the hours up. Actually it was just under a month start to finish, but I did order parts after I tore it down, and that added 3 to 5 days, and I only had weekends, and it was during the busiest time of year. Of course I did some cleaning of the under carriage, and had the drive shaft balanced, among other things the trans shop would not have done. It cost just under $500 including the drive shaft balance, the trans parts were about $380 (seal kit which had clutch packs, and the 2 bands, one front casing bushing, and 1 center support), so I did save a chunk of money, at least for this working stiff.
I would say there are many of you out there who could do this job, the manual does a good job of walking one through the process. Although, I would rate this a rather “advanced” job for a hobbyist, if only for the shear quantity of parts inside that case. I would do it again, it really was not that scary after all is said and done.

Riverside, Ca.
1957 Provincial X2
1958 Transtar
1963 Lark

12-26-2006, 12:47 AM
I had a local shop do mine. It was 5 hours of labor @ $50 hour and a $140 parts kit, but the transmission was not in bad shape. As far as the shop is concerned, it's a Ford-O-Matic.

Arnold Md.
Studebaker On The Net
My Ebay Items

64 GT hawk
64 Commander 2 dr.
63 R2 4 speed GT Hawk (Black) #2
63 Avanti R1
63 Daytona convert
63 Lark 2 door
63 Lark 2 door #2
62 Lark 2 door
60 Hawk
59 3E truck
52 Starliner
51 Commander

12-26-2006, 06:42 PM
Way to go JP! Are you trying to make Ross feel extra good, or what? :)
Sounds like he did a fine job and that noise you don't hear is me applauding his efforts. The great thing is Ross will be much more knowledgeable about auto trans problems in the future. That kind of experience is priceless.

Tim K.
'64 R2 GT Hawk