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  • Garage Ideas

    I would like to build a pole barn or garage 40x32 I live in northeastern Ohio what are some of the things that I should icorprate into my plans, heat, light, electrical, foudation, insulation, ect . Thanks Joe

    Joseph Kastellec
    Joseph Kastellec

  • #2
    I am just finishing a garage addition to my house and have learned some things along the way. Keep in mind I live in ND where we always see at least -30F at some point in the winter, so some of these may be less important in Ohio.

    1. Spray foam insulation is the neatest stuff there is for walls. If you really want a good seal that eliminates air infiltration, spray foam beats fiberglass batts, no questions asked. Price is some higher since you must hire it done, but it was worth it to me. It only takes 3 inches to get R21, vs. R19 for a 6 inch fiberglass batt. It is also touted to increase the rigidity of a 2x4 wall by 60%. Look into it.

    2. Floor drains are really neat....if you do them right. My garage is 24 x 26 and I have a drain in the middle of each stall. Nice to be able to wash cars inside. The contractor did an excellent job of grading the floor and everything runs to the drains. The drains even have a neat little catcher thing like your kitchen sink to pull out and dump the gravel, etc. In spite of the fact that my drains are routed to an underground field not connected to my sewer, the plumbers put in P-traps. Since my garage was not completed, and therefore not heated this winter, the drains froze in December and thawed in April, making them completely useless all winter. I hope they stay open next winter as I hope to keep my garage just slightly above freezing. Moral of the story, if you run floor drains to a drain field instead of a septic or sewer system, consider leaving out the P-traps.
    I find that the sloped floor is a mix of good and bad. It makes water go away, but since the floor is not flat, ladders, saws, engine stands, etc either tend to sit wonky or roll to the drain!

    3. Lights and plug ins are cheap if you do them yourself. Read the latest codes, they are changing quickly.

    4. Cold and HOT water is a real kick in the garage.

    5. Windows are great.

    6. Buy a garage door opener with a motion sensor on the wall button and mount the button near the walk-in door you use most. That way you don't need to turn the lights on if you are just going to be there for a minute, they turn on themselves.

    I am sure I will think of more.

    Rob
    Rob in ND
    \'53 Commander resto-mod (work in process)

    Comment


    • #3
      I'm looking at the same thing.

      To me, the importance is height. At least 10 foot walls so that I can put in a hoist or two. A stairwell going up wouldn't hurt, as the rafter area will give you room for storage. Heating isn't a problem in FL, but I'm looking at AC so that I can work in the garage between June and August.

      Keep windows to a minimum to decrease the possibility of a break in. I plan on running some glass block windows up high to let in natural light.

      Elevate the garage slightly higher than the driveway so water drains away and not to your garage.


      ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
      Tom - Mulberry, FL

      1964 Studebaker Daytona - 289 4V, 4-Speed (Cost To Date: $2125.60)

      Tom - Bradenton, FL

      1964 Studebaker Daytona - 289 4V, 4-Speed (Cost To Date: $2514.10)
      1964 Studebaker Commander - 170 1V, 3-Speed w/OD

      Comment


      • #4
        Insulation is great but don't seal the building too tight. A friend in Omaha got his sealed too well and moisture built up on the cars. A couple of whirly fans on the roof took care of it.
        Denny L

        Comment


        • #5
          here's a couple of ideas,
          floor don't have expansion joint, saw cut the concrete a day or two after you pour. Expansion joints are a PITA when rolling tool boxes.
          Do the drain in one stall only so you don't have the unlevel floor thing. I like windows for natural light but the break in factor must be considered. Research the lift you want, talk to local mechanics, stay away from the off shore stuff its your life. Spec out the lift you want and pour extra footing where it will mount, they don't require it but I do :-). A sink and toilet are really nice hot water is a plus those under sink hot water tanks are great and have enough capacity for hand washing etc.
          Air and electric on every wall, 220 on the wall you think you might have the welder you'll eventually want.
          I'm in Arizona so the cold isn't an issue, but if I was in your country I'd look into the heated floor you can zone it to heat only the areas you'll likely be working in.the spray on foam is great and I'd also recommend it, a little spendy up front but worth it.
          Small room to the side for painting small parts.
          Just dream and let your budget be your guide :-(
          I mounted a vise on a 6in pipe set in the floor, it has its advantages but make sure you put it where you want it as its permanent. I don't know that I'd do that again its seems to be in the way from time to time.
          quote:Originally posted by G T Joe

          I would like to build a pole barn or garage 40x32 I live in northeastern Ohio what are some of the things that I should icorprate into my plans, heat, light, electrical, foudation, insulation, ect . Thanks Joe

          Joseph Kastellec

          Russ Shop Foreman "Rusty Nut Garage"
          53 2R6 289 5SpdOD (driver)
          57 SH (project)
          60 Lark VIII 2dr sd (driver)

          Russ Shop Foreman \"Rusty Nut Garage\"
          53 2R6 289 5SpdOD (driver)
          57 SH (project)
          60 Lark VIII 2dr sd (driver)

          Comment


          • #6
            A bathroom is a goodidea too!!

            Jim
            "We can't all be Heroes, Some us just need to stand on the curb and clap as they go by" Will Rogers

            We will provide the curb for you to stand on and clap!


            Indy Honor Flight www.IndyHonorFlight.org

            As of Veterans Day 2017, IHF has flown 2,450 WWII, Korean, and Vietnam Veterans to Washington DC at NO charge! to see
            their Memorials!

            Comment


            • #7
              Believe me 40x32 will not be large enough, if I had to do it over I would move and go with 20,000 sq. feet, in one corner I would paint a sea scape and another would be mountain setting, with a double wide sitting on Astro turf with a large above ground pool, a double door with opener so wife could drive right in like Dan Tanner used to do in the series Vegas. the rest of the sq. footage would be for "guess what", your right you guessed it Chevys!!!!no no no I can't even spell it but I can spell Studebakers 19,800 feet for me. oh will wish full thinking on my part...Bob

              Bob Peterson / C & B Studebakers

              Castro Valley, CA

              Candbstudebakers
              Castro Valley,
              California


              Comment


              • #8
                Good point build it as large as you can afford mine is 40x30 detached and no garage on the house, 40x60 would have been a better choice but it always comes downt to $$ doesn't it
                quote:Originally posted by candbstudebakers

                Believe me 40x32 will not be large enough, if I had to do it over I would move and go with 20,000 sq. feet, in one corner I would paint a sea scape and another would be mountain setting, with a double wide sitting on Astro turf with a large above ground pool, a double door with opener so wife could drive right in like Dan Tanner used to do in the series Vegas. the rest of the sq. footage would be for "guess what", your right you guessed it Chevys!!!!no no no I can't even spell it but I can spell Studebakers 19,800 feet for me. oh will wish full thinking on my part...Bob

                Bob Peterson / C & B Studebakers

                Castro Valley, CA


                Russ Shop Foreman "Rusty Nut Garage"
                53 2R6 289 5SpdOD (driver)
                57 SH (project)
                60 Lark VIII 2dr sd (driver)

                Russ Shop Foreman \"Rusty Nut Garage\"
                53 2R6 289 5SpdOD (driver)
                57 SH (project)
                60 Lark VIII 2dr sd (driver)

                Comment


                • #9
                  If you are limited on size, build up. My barn was limited to 32' X 48' due to zoning restrictions. However, adding a second floor under the gambrel roof gave me an upstairs room 16' X 40'. Well worth the extra cost.

                  If you are good with size make the walls at least 12' to allow the installation of a lift later.

                  No matter how big you build it, your "stuff" will grow to fill the volume you built. You cannot build it big enough.

                  Bob

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I haven t' seen or heard this one lately, one of Murphy's laws I guess.

                    Stuff expands to fill space allotted.

                    [img=left]http://www.alink.com/personal/tbredehoft/Avatar1.jpg[/img=left]
                    Tom Bredehoft
                    '53 Commander Coupe (since 1959)
                    '55 President (6H Y6) State Sedan
                    (Under Construction 573 hrs.)
                    '05 Legacy Ltd Wagon
                    All Indiana built cars

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Living in Houston A/C is a big factor in building a garage. I would like to add, buy insulated garage doors if possable. I am having to add insulation to mine as the sun is like a radiator and relly heats up the area mking my A/C work way to hard. Also I have 40 x 25 and it is way to small. What part of OHIO?? I am from Niles.

                      1956 Studebaker Pelham Wagon Houston, Texas
                      Remember, \"When all is said and done. More is always said then ever done.\"

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I'm looking at a 40'X60' with four bays. I'm also looking at a 'Mother-in-Law' apartment, hot & cold water, etc., and still have enough room for an office or parts room. I figured the last bay would have a drain and be 'drive thru' with doors front and rear. I also figure this will be where the parties will end up .

                        Keep in mind where you plan to put you compressor. Just as important as the welder and also uses 220v.

                        ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                        Tom - Mulberry, FL

                        1964 Studebaker Daytona - 289 4V, 4-Speed (Cost To Date: $2125.60)

                        Tom - Bradenton, FL

                        1964 Studebaker Daytona - 289 4V, 4-Speed (Cost To Date: $2514.10)
                        1964 Studebaker Commander - 170 1V, 3-Speed w/OD

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by G T Joe

                          I would like to build a pole barn or garage 40x32 I live in northeastern Ohio what are some of the things that I should icorprate into my plans, heat, light, electrical, foudation, insulation, ect . Thanks Joe

                          Joe, get Studeboro to contract it all and make it 80X64. Get it dried in and we'll talk. Get a lift in there, pal!

                          53hardtop, While we occasionally see -30, you're right it's not usually that cold. But it's also not Georgia, either. We need serious insulation and a heated floor to be efficient for the Studes.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Mine is a work in progress. It's 32 by 60 feet, and already too small. But I have a 14' ceiling, so a hoist will be no problem. Floor is 6" of high-strength concrete, with loops for in-floor heat in place. Meets or exceeds the standard for industrial shops around here. No floor drains, no expansion joints. But a nice smooth surface so water can be pushed off with a squeegee. And it dries fast on a heated floor anyway.

                            Six inch walls, and I'm going with fiberglass batt insulation, and a vapor barrier, of course. Outer skin and roof are steel rib panels. I have steel rib panels for a ceiling, now. Interior walls are going to be 5/8" T&G plywood up to the 8' mark, and steel rib panels from there to the ceiling. Makes hanging shelves and hooks for "stuff" so much easier, and if the handle of the floor jack flops into the wall, then there's only a small dent, not great big hole.

                            I've sliding doors hung from an overhead track, barn-style. Cost a lot less than roll-up doors, and I can fix them myself if something goes wrong. Roll-up doors with those big springs, you almost have to hire the pros if they go wrong, and I'm 50 miles from the nearest door shop. The sliders are a bit of a PITA to operate, but I'm not going to be operating them multiple times per day, either. I might try motorizing the one I use most of the time.

                            I am going to put down some planks in the rafters that will permit me to walk along the ridge line, and I will have a wall ladder built in at the end to access the attic. I can store light stuff up there, like seats, and maybe sheet metal.

                            My electrical service panel is now in and connected. I will do the interior wall panels and branch wiring myself. I plan to put all the wiring surface-mount in steel conduit.

                            Here's a pic showing my Weasel dripping on the new floor:

                            Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands
                            Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              You will find checking out http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/ a big help.



                              Mike Jones
                              Pembroke Pines, FL

                              Mike - Assistant Editor, Turning Wheels
                              Fort Worth, TX

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