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LarkR2Clone
04-11-2009, 07:32 PM
Does any one have jts 1455 or jts 1656 both where in 63 daytonas
parted out. I need to number my block and don't want to use someones
motor number.

Thanks James Maxey III

StudeRich
04-11-2009, 08:01 PM
I would think it would be very hard to pick a registered, parted out, one that does not exist somewhere in someone's modified something.

Maybe just a non-registered one, that was hopefully actually cut-up and shredded back in the 1970's?

Pick a number between start and ending engine number!

Thomas63R2
04-11-2009, 08:11 PM
James, why not just leave it blank if it is a service block that you are using? I may be wrong, the way I see it in Stude circles is that the numbers game is just an interesting activity - not so serious like for an NCRS judged Corvette.

Other than matching an engine number legit to your car, why create a JTS engine that may get passed off as the real deal later on?

Thomas

Long time hot rodder
Packrat junk collector
'63 Avanti R2 4 speed

58PackardWagon
04-11-2009, 10:46 PM
Why would one want a possible integrity issue and their car with a credibilty/validity issue? I saw a white 63 in South Bend that was an R2 clone and the individual spent a lot of time defending the car with other Stude goers. After a day on the lawn, that individual looked worn out and beat up.

R2Andrea
04-11-2009, 11:26 PM
Building a clone is no big deal, as long as it's represented as exactly that, a copy. But trying to legitimize it by giving it bogus numbers is just plain WRONG.

R2Andy

clonelark
04-12-2009, 04:57 AM
I hope that doesn't get confused with my Clone Lark, Mine IS going to be a clone even if i get a R2 engine.

http://i40.tinypic.com/o759c1.jpg

LarkR2Clone
04-12-2009, 07:07 AM
Sorry to cause such a problem of trying to make it right.
My car is 100% CLONE as there was only 9 1963 Daytona R2 Full Packaged Cars. Guess the best thing to do is leave the block blank.

Thanks James Maxey III.

Dick Steinkamp
04-12-2009, 09:55 AM
As with ANY car you build...do what makes YOU happy.

It will drive you nuts to wonder what the next owner might do or think about it...or the next, or the next.

You'll also go nuts trying to second guess what others might think about the interior color, or the fastener markings, or the date code of the radio antenna.

Build it for yourself. Do what you want to do.

If it pleases you to mark the block, do it.

If you did a nut and bolt restoration on an actual Super Lark, you'd still get plenty of folks that will point out all the "wrong" things to you. Some because they have a need to know more than you, but most out of sheer jealousy.

Build it the way you want to build it...drive it, enjoy it :D



Dick Steinkamp
Bellingham, WA

http://i706.photobucket.com/albums/ww63/dstnkmp/pics075-1-1.jpg

studebaker-R2-4-me
04-12-2009, 10:02 AM
Believe me you will be the only one that knows that there is a serial number not stamped on that block. Your integrity will be intact when you show up at a Studebaker meet and the rest of the world will be none the wiser. Leave the cloverleaf if that's what you have.

You certainly don't want to be known as the guy that milled a serial number off a block to represent it as something else.

It's well known that a few individuals have milled blocks and represented them as R series blocks. Don't get caught in their firestorm.

My Hawk is a complete clone right down to 160MPH speedo, redline tach, traction bars, swaybars, and the engine is a factory cloverleaf replacement block. I really enjoy it, and you will enjoy your clone lark too without a fake serial number.

Allen

http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o278/studebaker-r2-4-me/Side.jpg
1964 R2 GT Hawk
http://s122.photobucket.com/albums/o278/studebaker-r2-4-me/th_IMGP0662-2.jpg
1963 Daytona Convertible
Oakville, Ontario.
Hamilton Chapter
See you in Cedar Rapids Summer 2009