Remote battery install

[Champion51]

It's time to replace my battery. I have been running the group 1 battery which is the correct application for my Champion.

Have been thinking about going to a Group 4 size to give me the extra cold cranking amps that are really needed to turn over this heavy duty, original 169cid six. The problem is the size. Although it will give me 1,000 CCA's, it is just shy of 13" in length, almost 4" too long for the factory battery box. Don't want to ruin the originality of the box by modifying it. So I've been thinking about fabricating a tray to hold the larger battery and mounting it in the trunk behind the rear seat.

Has anyone had any success with mounting a battery elsewhere? Any other ideas or suggestions? Thanks.

HAVE A HAPPY EASTER!!

Dave D.
'51 "Bulletnose" Champ
'59 "Silver Hawk V8"

Smithers, B.C. "Where a Stude in hand is worth two in the bush"

[studegary]

Most Group 1 batteries sold in discount and chain auto stores are now only 45 amp-hour. This is enough for a VW Beetle, but not enough for most Studebakers. Group 1 batteries are made in different amp-hour ratings. Get one that is at least 51 amp-hour. Try someplace like Trctor Supply. This will give you more power and still maintain the same physical size and not require relocating. With a six volt system, make sure that your cables are the correct size (not 12 volt cables) and that all connections are clean and tight.

Gary L.
Wappinger, NY

SDC member since 1968
Studebaker enthusiast much longer

[Champion51]

Thanks Gary for your reply. I read your imput on the "6Volt" thread by 51Bullet and that's what got me going. I've got a very tight engine and the low amp-hour battery really works to turn it over.

Up here, (in the bush), the auto store people have limited knowledge of the parts they sell. You can read the, "Just give me your money" look, all over their dumb faces. I have already asked for a 6-volt with a 51 amp-hr. rating. The NAPA guy says he can't tell me the amp-hr. rating, but "I have one in 650 cold cranking amps or another in 1,000 cold cranking amps". That's my choice in 6V - so far!

So, that's why I'm thinking about relocating a heavier output battery somewhere else. Any other suggestions[?]

Dave D.
'51 "Bulletnose" Champ
'59 "Silver Hawk V8"

Smithers, B.C. "Where a Stude in hand is worth two in the bush"

[Dick Steinkamp]

quote:Originally posted by Champion51
Any other suggestions[?]

Optima...

http://www.batteryweb.com/optima-detail.cfm?Model=6V-800&Section=AUTOMOTIVE

Start on 12V and run everything else on 6V...

http://www.antiqueautobattery.com/prod011.htm

Dick Steinkamp
Bellingham, WA

[Tom Bredehoft]

I had the same problem, (not the guys, but the availabilities of batteries)Chose the Optima, it cranks like the very devil and won't give off acid fumes.

[img=left]http://www.alink.com/personal/tbredehoft/Avatar1.jpg[/img=left]
Tom Bredehoft
'53 Commander Coupe (since 1959)
'55 President (6H Y6) State Sedan
(Under Construction 573 hrs.)
'05 Legacy Ltd Wagon
All Indiana built cars

[James Caspi]

From the first months of owning my 50 Champion, I decided that I needed a 12 Volt batter and put it in a battery box in the trunk just behind the rear passenger side seat, on the flat shelf. This was to run a 12 v radio/tape deck. But soon I realized that the 12 Volts was a big problem so I have recently replaced it with a 6 Volt which is the same size as the regular battery. I keep a set of long jumper cables in the trunk so when I have a problem starting, which I have had no problems with lately, I have not used it once in a year.

I even started the Stude in 14 degree weather with heaps of snow everywhere but she cranked well and started up.

That is my experience and I get piece of mind knowing I've got the second battery in waiting.

Jim Caspi



James Caspi
1950 Champion Regal Deluxe-2 dr.
New York, NY.

[royvaldez]

Why don't you go with an 8 volt battery. Still fits and you have more juice.

[Kdancy]

Have read that since optima moved it's battery operation to Mexico there have been a lot of problems with the batteries. I've had two, had to exchange both very early.

53commander HDTP
53 Champion HDTP
64 Champ long bed V8

[Champion51]

Some good thoughts there guys. I like the 6/12V that Dick suggested but can't get such a thing up here. Also, don't know anything about their quality or lifespan. Don't want an Optima. I've heard too much negative talk about their deteriorating quality over the past several years.

If it is possible and without modifications, the ideal solution for me, would be to put a 12V in the trunk and use only for starting or the other alternative, put the large 6V in the trunk and leave the "Willard" just where it is (for show). I'm a little concerned that I might lose amperage over a [u]long</u> cable run like that? Would either of these two ideas be workable? Thanks again for your replies.

Dave D.
'51 "Bulletnose" Champ
'59 "Silver Hawk V8"

Smithers, B.C. "Where a Stude in hand is worth two in the bush"

[studegary]

quote:Originally posted by Champion51

Thanks Gary for your reply. I read your imput on the "6Volt" thread by 51Bullet and that's what got me going. I've got a very tight engine and the low amp-hour battery really works to turn it over.

Up here, (in the bush), the auto store people have limited knowledge of the parts they sell. You can read the, "Just give me your money" look, all over their dumb faces. I have already asked for a 6-volt with a 51 amp-hr. rating. The NAPA guy says he can't tell me the amp-hr. rating, but "I have one in 650 cold cranking amps or another in 1,000 cold cranking amps". That's my choice in 6V - so far!


Dave D.

I believe that if you get the 1000 CCA Group 1 battery it should be sufficient, assuming that the rest of your car's electrical system is in good shape. Optima's 50 AH six volt battery has 800 CCA.
The price that I see for the six volt Optima is $149.95 including shipping. I would not go that way. (I still kick myself for passing on a new 12 volt Optima for $35 at a store closure auction because I did not need a battery at the time and before I knew how much they cost.)

Gary L.
Wappinger, NY

SDC member since 1968
Studebaker enthusiast much longer

[curt]

I agree, all connections clean & tight?[?]. Make sure the ground at the block/frame is clean & tight. Also. I have found a cleaning of tne connections with a wire brush and then clean the connections with baking soda and water, rinse, dry and put the wires back together. The contacts will shine. My experience with 6 volts is clean contact areas at the connections, car will start every tine. I know a fellow who started on 12 volts and switched to 6 volts after starting, that worked great. It used two six volt batteries and a special switch.