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jclary
04-06-2009, 04:14 PM
Over the years, I have seen people at Junk Yards, garages, and flea markets, crank up an engine lying on the ground, or in the back of a pick up truck. Although it works to allow a prospective buyer hear the engine, I just never liked the thought of an engine wallowing around on its oil pan. I have a couple of spare six cylinders and a V8 I would like to play with. I would like to have some kind of simple "test stand" to run them on. Before I start another "re-invent the wheel project" I thought I would ask what other members of the Forum have for "test stand" ideas.

John Clary
Greer, SC
http://i518.photobucket.com/albums/u346/jconln/HPIM0372-2.jpg
I have only two limitations ...BRAINS & ENERGY
SDC member since 1975

bams50
04-06-2009, 04:23 PM
Just do what JDP did, cut the front half of the frame out of a junk Stude. Then you can just bolt it to stock mounts.

Robert (Bob) Andrews Owner- Studebakeracres- on the IoMT (Island of Misfit Toys!)
Parish, central NY 13131

"Some people live for the rules, I live for exceptions"- 311

"Do they all not, by mere virtue of having survived as relics of a bygone era, amass a level of respect perhaps not accorded to them when they were new?"

Roscomacaw
04-06-2009, 04:23 PM
There have been several topics over the years about building such. My approach - one that I'll be putting to use again today - was to cut the front section of a Stude truck frame, weld four channel iron legs to it and you're ready to go! You could leave the front axle in place and add a large caster.
On mine, I just welded four pneumatic wheel casters - one to each leg.;) Same thing could be done with a car frame too!

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1963 Cruiser
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President two door

Roscomacaw
04-06-2009, 04:24 PM
I think JDP built a cradle out of tubing.:)

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1963 Cruiser
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President two door

289stude
04-06-2009, 04:30 PM
I havn't done it yet, but I plan on useing the front end of an old Studebaker frame. I plan on shortening the front a foot or so, cutting the back just near the cross member, and making an adjustable plate to bolt to the rear of the block. The Studebaker frame will accomidate all Stude motors that I know of. Just weld on some legs and your done. If you wanted to get real creative you could roll the springs over for legs (side ways) up front narrow a rear with some cool wheels in back. You could build the whole thing frome 1 srap rolling chassis.




John

53' 2R5 R1 Powershift TT Under Construction

57' Transtar 304 NP540 4:09 TT Under Construction (in Picture)

58' 3E6D Stock Sale Pending

61' 6E7 122 Factory Auto

http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p99/289stude/transtar3-1-2.jpg

289stude
04-06-2009, 04:32 PM
Sheeze you guys type alot faster than I can when i started nobody had even replied to this now there are several with the same idea.




John

53' 2R5 R1 Powershift TT Under Construction

57' Transtar 304 NP540 4:09 TT Under Construction (in Picture)

58' 3E6D Stock Sale Pending

61' 6E7 122 Factory Auto

http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p99/289stude/transtar3-1-2.jpg

jclary
04-06-2009, 04:42 PM
So far it looks like the suggestions are coming from you northern guys, 'cept for Biggs, with lots of rusty iron laying around. I was hoping for maybe a few pieces of angle iron with some kinda adjustable engine mounts and "cute" feet. I'd hate to sacrifice a whole chassis just to play with a spare engine. I have one of those shop stands for mounting a block without the fly wheel. But I don't think it would be adaptable for a complete running engine.

John Clary
Greer, SC
http://i518.photobucket.com/albums/u346/jconln/HPIM0372-2.jpg
I have only two limitations ...BRAINS & ENERGY
SDC member since 1975

bams50
04-06-2009, 04:59 PM
quote:Originally posted by Mr.Biggs

I think JDP built a cradle out of tubing.:)


Here's JDP's with my engine on it:

http://stude.com/R2engine/R2R.jpg

http://stude.com/R2engine/R2R1.jpg

It's the front crossmember/mounts, some angle, and a trans. mount. Simple as pie!

Robert (Bob) Andrews Owner- Studebakeracres- on the IoMT (Island of Misfit Toys!)
Parish, central NY 13131

"Some people live for the rules, I live for exceptions"- 311

"Do they all not, by mere virtue of having survived as relics of a bygone era, amass a level of respect perhaps not accorded to them when they were new?"

jclary
04-06-2009, 05:05 PM
Great! simple and clean! Now...'bout that orange thang (drawl) hanging 'round on top of that motor...

John Clary
Greer, SC
http://i518.photobucket.com/albums/u346/jconln/HPIM0372-2.jpg
I have only two limitations ...BRAINS & ENERGY
SDC member since 1975

bams50
04-06-2009, 05:09 PM
quote:Originally posted by jclary

Now...'bout that orange thang (drawl) hanging 'round on top of that motor...


Dunno what that is- I think it's some kind of pollution device. I'll probably pull it off and throw it away;)

Robert (Bob) Andrews Owner- Studebakeracres- on the IoMT (Island of Misfit Toys!)
Parish, central NY 13131

"Some people live for the rules, I live for exceptions"- 311

"Do they all not, by mere virtue of having survived as relics of a bygone era, amass a level of respect perhaps not accorded to them when they were new?"

jlmccuan
04-06-2009, 05:26 PM
That is a Studebaker smog pump. It allows you to make about 50% more smog plus increase fuel consumption at the same time. "They were way ahead of their time."

Jim
http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x98/jlmccuan/Avanti/AvantiSignature.jpghttp://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x98/jlmccuan/Avanti/DSCF4389.jpghttp://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x98/jlmccuan/Avanti/Logo/RabidSnailSignature.jpg
_________1966 Avanti II RQA 0088______________________1963 Avanti R2 63R3152_______________Rabid Snail Racing

R2Andrea
04-06-2009, 06:37 PM
I engineered one up for my self but don't have any pics to post. But... what you'll find here www.easy-run.net is quite close design wise.

R2Andy

gordr
04-06-2009, 07:04 PM
Assuming you don't have a frame to cut up, or that you want something that looks pretty:

Assemble your engine to the bellhousing you plan to use. Set the assembly on a flat floor, and prop it so the carburetor or top flange of the intake manifold is level. Drop a plumb bob from each front motor mount stud to the floor, and make a chalk mark. Also measure the vertical distance from the bottom face of the motor mount biscuit to the floor on each side.

Depending upon the bellhousing used, drop a plumb and measure the vertical distance for the bellhousing mounts. Standards (mostly) have a mount located low on the bottom, automatics (mostly) have them at about 4:00 and 8:00 on the round portion of the bell. In any case, you should use the mounting surface(s) for the front mounts as a datum, and reference you your rear mount points to them, in three dimensions.

Make your measurements several times, and draw a sketch with all the relevant dimensions double-checked. Then get some steel, or even lumber, if you are so inclined, and build a frame of suitable size and strength to support the assembly on whatever mounting surfaces you have decided upon. Remember to leave room to access the oil pan, and the fan, and starter. Leave enough extra length on the side rails of the frame to support a radiator or water tank at the front, and a battery at the rear. An instrument panel with a set of gauges would be a nice touch.

If you go to swap meets or hot rod shows, you can see ready-made stands of this type offered for sale. Some are dedicated to one engine type, others are adjustable to fit many kinds.

If the engine you are testing is to be attached to an automatic transmission, you would be best to make your test stand accommodate the whole transmission. You need to have the transmission in place to properly support the torque converter, which in turn has the ring gear on it. The alternative would be to have a "test flywheel" on hand, with the mounting holes counter-bored so you could attach it to the short crank bolts used on automatic-tranny cars. OK if you have lots of parts on hand, not so good if it's your only Studebaker engine.

The big advantage to using a cut-off Studebaker frame is that the tricky 3-dimensional measuring has already been done for you.

Rather than tie up a good radiator in a test stand, I would simply use a steel 5-gallon pail with some tubes welded into it to accept rad hoses. I wouldn't expect to want to run an engine in the test stand any longer than it takes to get it fully warmed up, and the valves adjusted.

Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

Roscomacaw
04-06-2009, 07:17 PM
C'mon Macgordyver!

Surely you can make one with some bamboo plant stakes, some super glue, a handful of metric hardware and 20 feet of clothesline.

Geesh! Whar's the ingenuity in what you've just conceived???[B)]

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1963 Cruiser
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President two door

jclary
04-06-2009, 07:42 PM
I wouldn't want to pick on (Mr.) Gord too much. He has given me some great tips in the short time I have been gleaning knowledge from this forum. With all the reading time the Canadian winters provide, we could expect some good technical know how to result.

StudeRich
04-06-2009, 09:27 PM
quote:Originally posted by jclary

I wouldn't want to pick on (Mr.) Gord too much. He has given me some great tips in the short time I have been gleaning knowledge from this forum. With all the reading time the Canadian winters provide, we could expect some good technical know how to result.

I think you have to know Mr. Biggs' sense of humor better! :D

He is rarely 100% SERIOUS! [:o)]

http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa221/studerich/My64Daytona.jpg
StudeRich at Studebakers Northwest -Ferndale,WA

jclary
04-06-2009, 09:48 PM
Oh, I didn't think he was serious! Neither was I. If any of us were too serious, we'd probably be driving mundane o'l cars and using these computers for stuff like e-mail, paying bills, and making corny birthday cards to send to "Aunt Sue!"

DilloCrafter
04-06-2009, 11:26 PM
As I read Gord's instructions, I kept thinking, "hey, in a minute here he's going to make a sucker out of me and guide me right into looking at a test stand that's actually a complete Studebaker minus the sheet metal". :D

http://simps.us/studebaker/misc/images/Avacar-hcsdc.gif[/img=left]
Paul Simpson
"DilloCrafter"

1955 1/2 Ton Pickup
[i]The Red-Headed Amazon
Deep in the heart of Texas

candbstudebakers
04-06-2009, 11:35 PM
Cutting the front of a frame quick but still a rather large item, I did it and have 4 large 8 " wheels to move it around easy, also put a large handle on the back to push or pull and plan on mounting a gage and switch system on the handle , there is a standard radiator bracket to hold the radiator in place, it is a little large but room for every thing needed to fire and run an engine, mine was a 57 golden hawk frame....will post some pictures....Bob Peterson

Roscomacaw
04-07-2009, 12:03 AM
Yeah - Gord and I are long-time friends. He's been here and strolled the Stude Farm more than once!
the guy's a living, breathing incarnation (did I get it right, Gary?) of Macguyver of the TV fantasy series. That, Mr. Clary, is why I feel free to tease him a bit.:D



1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1963 Cruiser
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President two door

jclary
04-07-2009, 06:30 AM
You folks remember that program "Junk Yard Wars?" I have not seen it in some time now. I have a feeling I was not the only fan among our forum members. I think we could have fielded a terrific team for that show!

John Clary
Greer, SC
http://i518.photobucket.com/albums/u346/jconln/HPIM0372-2.jpg
I have only two limitations ...BRAINS & ENERGY
SDC member since 1975

studebaker-R2-4-me
04-07-2009, 08:22 AM
Personally I would build a multifunction engine cradle that would accept a temporary radiator to be bolted on to it. My Engine cradle is able to be pushed around easily under full weight and would be easily adaptable for a radiator frame.

I don't have a lot of room in my shop and I need things to be put away when not in use Here's a picture of my engine cradle that I built a few years ago. This design needs improvement to be able to mount the engine without a bellhousing. It would help if you needed to dial in a new bellhousing.

http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o278/studebaker-r2-4-me/IMGP0104.jpg

http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o278/studebaker-r2-4-me/IMGP0103.jpg

http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o278/studebaker-r2-4-me/IMGP0101.jpg



Allen


http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o278/studebaker-r2-4-me/Side.jpg
1964 R2 GT Hawk
http://s122.photobucket.com/albums/o278/studebaker-r2-4-me/th_IMGP0662-2.jpg
1963 Daytona Convertible
Oakville, Ontario.
Hamilton Chapter
See you in Cedar Rapids Summer 2009

ROADRACELARK
04-07-2009, 08:51 AM
Northern Tool & Equipment has a real nice one, steel casters, guages, ignition switch and 2 gallon fuel tank....under $500. Visit NorthernTool.com

Dan Miller
Atlanta, GA

[img=left]http://static.flickr.com/57/228744729_7aff5f0118_m.jpg[/img=left]
Road Racers turn left AND right.

jclary
04-07-2009, 10:18 AM
The Northern stand sounds great, but about $450 too much for us CASO folks. I suppose the picture below is the closest thing I had to a test stand when I was restoring my '48 coupe. My Wife and Daughter had nicknamed me "Freddy Flintstone" during this time. A piece of an old swing set for a radiato brace, an old ammo box for a seat, headlight switch for an ignition switch, and the lawnmower gas can for a fuel tank! Worked at the time. I like the suggestions so far...Keep 'em coming.

http://i518.photobucket.com/albums/u346/jconln/1948frame.jpg

John Clary
Greer, SC
http://i518.photobucket.com/albums/u346/jconln/HPIM0372-2.jpg
I have only two limitations ...BRAINS & ENERGY
SDC member since 1975

buddymander
04-07-2009, 10:51 AM
I didn't see any mention of the fact that a motor can tumble it's way around your garage like a bull in a china shop if the rpm is drastically changed upward or downward. I don't like most of the cradles I see on here because they're too narrow to prevent tumbling. You know how a car will rock sideways when you rev the motor? It will rock both ways; when you give it gas and when you let off. The taller the cradle, the higher the center of gravity; making it more dangerous. I start mine with the pan on the ground and plenty of side supports. Not very cute; but safety is always first.

53hardtop
04-07-2009, 12:58 PM
I saw this on youtube. Looks very simple as it uses lumber. I really like his "radiator". The garden hose looks effective. Also, I see no sign of the engine wanting to wander around. Maybe the base of the stand is concrete.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hy4eIuo7XNI&feature=PlayList&p=9CE642C96AF0993C&playnext=1&playnext_from=PL&index=28

Rob in ND
'53 Commander Hardtop Resto-Mod (work in progress)

studegary
04-07-2009, 02:14 PM
I can remember running V8s hanging from a chain hoist in the garage. This was with a can and line for fuel, a coolant hook-up, etc.

Gary L.
Wappinger, NY

SDC member since 1968
Studebaker enthusiast much longer

buddymander
04-07-2009, 04:50 PM
I watched the utube video. Didn't you notice how much it moved back and forth when it was first firing? Just some misfiring was enough to make it move enough to concern me. But hey, if you want to start a motor up and not have provisions for it to roll sideways, just make sure you're either in front of it or behind it. Anybody got stories of "Motors Gone Wild"?

jclary
04-07-2009, 05:12 PM
quote:Golden Hawk Member



949 Posts
Posted - 04/07/2009 : 4:50:04 PM
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I watched the utube video. Didn't you notice how much it moved back and forth when it was first firing? Just some misfiring was enough to make it move enough to concern me. But hey, if you want to start a motor up and not have provisions for it to roll sideways, just make sure you're either in front of it or behind it. Anybody got stories of "Motors Gone Wild"?


Sure! Buddy, In my dreams...but I wake up and find that I am merely chugging along. Really, the reason I started this post is to get ideas and suggestions in order to build an economical, simple, and safe stand that would allow the testing and tuning of an engine before installing in a vehicle. If anybody is accelerating an engine enough to torque it over or bust it loose, then it should be bolted into a full blown dyno system. To merely test, tune and evaluate, should not require that kind of force.

tim87114
04-07-2009, 06:04 PM
I was in Harbor Freight and they now carry a full engine test stand.
here ya go. http://search.harborfreight.com/cpisearch/web/search.do?keyword=engine+test

$299.00

buddymander
04-07-2009, 07:32 PM
OOOO, I want one. Do they come in red? I noticed it has a dashboard with a water temp gauge, oil pressure gauge, and tachometer. Just out of curiosity....how high does the tach go?....;)....

bams50
04-07-2009, 07:42 PM
John, seeing that this thread has become so... thorough, here's the other end of the spectrum, for comparison:

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j209/mbstude/r3_stand.jpg

Robert (Bob) Andrews Owner- Studebakeracres- on the IoMT (Island of Misfit Toys!)
Parish, central NY 13131

"Some people live for the rules, I live for exceptions"- 311

"Do they all not, by mere virtue of having survived as relics of a bygone era, amass a level of respect perhaps not accorded to them when they were new?"

candbstudebakers
04-07-2009, 08:47 PM
What is that big black hose on the pass side going into the gas tank??...Bob Peterson

bams50
04-07-2009, 08:49 PM
Bob, I think that's an extra-long piece of air intake hose going to a chrome breather laying next to the tank.

Robert (Bob) Andrews Owner- Studebakeracres- on the IoMT (Island of Misfit Toys!)
Parish, central NY 13131

"Some people live for the rules, I live for exceptions"- 311

"Do they all not, by mere virtue of having survived as relics of a bygone era, amass a level of respect perhaps not accorded to them when they were new?"

jeryst
04-07-2009, 08:52 PM
I bought a brand new one at a swapmeet last year. Supports engines up to 1000 pounds. Has multifunction mount attachments. 2 gal fuel tank. Place to mount a radiator, but also comes with a set of hose attachments so you can just use garden hoses. Has a full set of guages including a boost guage, as well as a keyed ignition switch, locking steel swiver casters, a battery tray, and a grab bar handle to move it around with. Has a lot of adjustments foward and backward as well as heigth wise. Very well put together and nice looking to boot. Really low and wide. $300. Cant remember the brand. I'll take a picture of it the next time I am up at the garage.

289stude
04-07-2009, 08:56 PM
So should you build a stand to accomidate a bell housing or just the block? I see both pictured, what are the pros & cons?




John

53' 2R5 R1 Powershift TT Under Construction

57' Transtar 304 NP540 4:09 TT Under Construction (in Picture)

58' 3E6D Stock Sale Pending

61' 6E7 122 Factory Auto

http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p99/289stude/transtar3-1-2.jpg

jclary
04-07-2009, 08:57 PM
Yeah Bams, I like that one! Of course, If I had one like that it would ruin my reputation! It is soooo clean! Instead of being accused of being a "Grease Monkey" I'd be just a "Monkey!"

jclary
04-07-2009, 09:02 PM
I would think the bell housing is essential, both for the mounting, starter, and safety. I would even like to have the option of mounting one with the transmission, so that it could be powered and checked out.

Sonny
04-07-2009, 11:08 PM
quote:Originally posted by ROADRACELARK

Northern Tool & Equipment has a real nice one, steel casters, guages, ignition switch and 2 gallon fuel tank....under $500. Visit NorthernTool.com

Dan Miller
Atlanta, GA

Couldn't find it Dan. Got a link? Thanks in advance.

Sonny
http://racingstudebakers.com/avatar_01.jpghttp://RacingStudebakers.com

Sonny
04-07-2009, 11:09 PM
quote:Originally posted by jeryst

I bought a brand new one at a swapmeet last year. Supports engines up to 1000 pounds. Has multifunction mount attachments. 2 gal fuel tank. Place to mount a radiator, but also comes with a set of hose attachments so you can just use garden hoses. Has a full set of guages including a boost guage, as well as a keyed ignition switch, locking steel swiver casters, a battery tray, and a grab bar handle to move it around with. Has a lot of adjustments foward and backward as well as heigth wise. Very well put together and nice looking to boot. Really low and wide. $300. Cant remember the brand. I'll take a picture of it the next time I am up at the garage.


Thanks, I'd like to see that one.

Sonny
http://racingstudebakers.com/avatar_01.jpghttp://RacingStudebakers.com

jclary
04-08-2009, 12:15 PM
Mr. Biggs!!!That's th' ticket! I am sure that if we were neighbors, we would be in perpetual trouble!

buddymander
04-08-2009, 12:19 PM
Those of you familiar with my posts may think that I throw caution to the wind for the sake of experimentation. One thing I always maintain, is safety first. These narrow engine stands are an accident waiting to happen. If you want to chance it on your own, you have my future sympathies, but to advise others that it's safe really bothers me.

Roscomacaw
04-08-2009, 12:39 PM
Buddy,

Don't take my quip personally. I'm more cautious than many. Fact is, I worked about 5 years in the world of heavy industrial machinery - retrofitting old and ancient machines with idiot-proof controls.
I know from experience (on this "stand" of mine) that it would take some real provocation to make it flip. It's withstood V8s as well as this 6.
The narrower cradles we've seen in this thread would give me jitters too. I really wanted to build a more elaborate stand - using this truck frame section - than what I did. I'd envisioned something with splayed legs and a permanent control panel like the fancy red & aluminum one shown in one photo. For me tho, the factor that dashed that was floor space and the thought of tripping over the slanted legs.
Furthermore, I won't be revving anything to 5 or 6K on this. It's more just to prove runworthiness and check for leaks.[^] Of course, it's fine for just storing an engine/tranny unit too. My only problem is the pneumatic caster tires (Harbor Freight - made in China, of course) won't hold air for long.:(
I could have opted for solid wheels, but since I'm not living on a sea of concrete, I wanted something that could traverse lawn and soil as well.:)

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1963 Cruiser
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President two door

rockinhawk
04-08-2009, 04:35 PM
I used the front axel and springs from a truck. Built my own frame from angle iron. Added a toung and 2 Drop legs. That way if you need to move it any distance all you do is hitch it to your truck and go. for stationary use, remove the toung and drop the legs. NT


Neil Thornton
Hazlehurst, GA
'57 Silver Hawk
'56 Sky Hawk
'51 2R16 dump truck
Many others.
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j209/mbstude/avatar2.jpg

gordr
04-08-2009, 04:42 PM
Biggs, I have those crapola Chinese tires on some of my gear. I found a solution for the leakage. Go to an ATV dealer, and get a product called "Green Slime". It's a sealing compound for tires, and is available in bottles of varying size. One small bottle ought to take care of all four of the casters on your engine test stand.

Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

jclary
04-08-2009, 04:57 PM
Biggs, If you had a 3-D scanner, and I had a 3-D printer, I would ask you to scan that thing and e-mail it to me so I could print one!

Dick Steinkamp
04-08-2009, 07:23 PM
I was at Bob Peterson's today. I showed him how to upload pictures to Photobucket and then post the pictures here. I think I created a monster and I apologize in advance to the members for doing so [B)] [:0] ;)

Anyway, I couldn't resist taking a pic of Bob's engine stand for this thread...

http://i706.photobucket.com/albums/ww63/dstnkmp/IMG_3120.jpg

http://i706.photobucket.com/albums/ww63/dstnkmp/IMG_3121.jpg

It's pretty neat. Front of a Stude frame on wheels with a push bar.

Dick Steinkamp
Bellingham, WA

http://i706.photobucket.com/albums/ww63/dstnkmp/pics075-1-1.jpg

bams50
04-08-2009, 07:39 PM
quote:Originally posted by Dick Steinkamp

I was at Bob Peterson's today. I couldn't resist taking a pic of Bob's engine stand for this thread...


OK now, that's the best one yet! Great work, Bob- not to primitive, not too fancy, and just the right size!

I wonder if there's a better choice for wheels out there? Something that would roll on gravel easily, but not TOO big...

Thanks guys, I'm gonna copy that one!http://www.mysmiley.net/imgs/smile/cool/cool0020.gif

Robert (Bob) Andrews Owner- Studebakeracres- on the IoMT (Island of Misfit Toys!)
Parish, central NY 13131

"Some people live for the rules, I live for exceptions"- 311

"Do they all not, by mere virtue of having survived as relics of a bygone era, amass a level of respect perhaps not accorded to them when they were new?"

jclary
04-08-2009, 07:57 PM
I am really enjoying this topic. The "can do" abilities of our members is fantastic. Bob Peterson's shop looks busy enough to really need his stand. My problem is that I am not doing enough "engine building" to keep that much space tied up for such a dedicated tool. I would like to have a hydraulic press, but would use it so seldom that it would probably be a tripping hazard most of the time. I took my old engine stand and fabricated a removable chrome polishing buffer out of it. That way it has another useful purpose. I have a couple of utility trailers that could serve as a "test stand platform."

However, keep sending the examples and ideas. I believe that lots of us can benefit.

John Clary
Greer, SC
http://i518.photobucket.com/albums/u346/jconln/HPIM0372-2.jpg
I have only two limitations ...BRAINS & ENERGY
SDC member since 1975

Kdancy
04-09-2009, 06:34 AM
quote:Originally posted by Dick Steinkamp

I was at Bob Peterson's today. I showed him how to upload pictures to Photobucket and then post the pictures here. I think I created a monster and I apologize in advance to the members for doing so [B)] [:0] ;)
Anyway, I couldn't resist taking a pic of Bob's engine stand for this thread...
It's pretty neat. Front of a Stude frame on wheels with a push bar.

Dick Steinkamp
Bellingham, WA


I like that one, may build one myself for newly rebuilt engine testing before installation and add the gage panel that Nimesh has on the other one shown. However, it does take quite a bit more space up so I would have to store it outside when not in use.

53commander HDTP
53 Champion HDTP
64 Champ long bed V8

Roscomacaw
04-09-2009, 08:59 AM
The half ton truck frames are more space-friendly than the car frames. And one thing we aging geezers need to consider is how much time we wanna spend on our failing knees or bending over with our aching backs. I'm only sorry I didn't put longer legs on mine.

Yeah gord, I've used slime for years. I guess it just goes against the grain to buy new tires and have to institute repair measures before I ever use them.[8]

Those pneumatic tires ARE nice tho! That body rotisserie that Allen Barth swindled me out of, we rolled that baby - WITH the biz coupe body on it - right across the uneven yard and right up into his trailer. Wouldn't have happened like that with solid wheels.[^]

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1963 Cruiser
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President two door

jclary
04-09-2009, 09:54 AM
http://i518.photobucket.com/albums/u346/jconln/48b0dy.jpg
Not an engine stand (Yet!) ... but another use for the 'ol canoe trailer.:D:)[8D]

Biggs, you want those legs longer? ... Grab a few pieces of angle iron...fire up the welder! Or better yet… Get the right strength "slotted angle" and... VOILA!...ADJUSTABLE LEGS![}:)]


John Clary
Greer, SC
http://i518.photobucket.com/albums/u346/jconln/HPIM0372-2.jpg
I have only two limitations ...BRAINS & ENERGY
SDC member since 1975

mbstude
04-09-2009, 10:12 AM
Dick, thanks for posting the pics of Bob's stand, that one's pretty slick. I might cut the front frame off my Daytona Wreck and make one similar.

Matthew Burnette
Hazlehurst, GA

http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk179/1959S2D/tiny.jpg

candbstudebakers
04-09-2009, 10:37 AM
This frame engine stand does take up its share of space and the cheap tires do go flat so it does have its draw back, but is is safe, we are working on a panel for switch and some gauges ect. funny no one noticed the gas station sitting on top of my engine!!!

Bob Peterson / C & B Studebakers

Castro Valley, CA

http://i691.photobucket.com/albums/vv271/canbstudebakers/IM000994-1-1.jpg

buddymander
04-09-2009, 10:50 AM
Looks like we need to have a "Run Stand Run-Off Competition". No cut down shopping carts if the store name is still attached!

jclary
04-09-2009, 11:25 AM
quote:candbstudebakers Posted - 04/09/2009 : 10:37:26 AM
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
funny no one noticed the gas station sitting on top of my engine!!!

Bob Peterson / C & B Studebakers


I noticed...just didn't want to suffer your bragging while I am turning green with envy![:p][^][:p]