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pdrnec
12-14-2006, 04:41 PM
Couldn't set timing where it belonged, performance-wise, without going to racing fuel or avgas, so I tried the Boost Cooler system from Snow Performance ( http://www.snowperformance.net/ ). Uses a different control switch for normally aspirated motors, after installation I set the advance at 10 deg BTDC and there is no ignition rattle.
Pictures at http://homepage.mac.com/pdrnec/PhotoAlbum168.html

Roscomacaw
12-14-2006, 04:58 PM
Thanks for sharing, Pat. Can I ask what your setup cost in the end?[:I]

Miscreant adrift in
the BerStuda Triangle
http://images.andale.com/f2/115/106/906179/2006/12/7/truckonhill3.jpg

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe

pdrnec
12-14-2006, 05:10 PM
It was around $400

If there's anything more important than my ego running around I want it caught and shot now.

Dick Steinkamp
12-14-2006, 05:41 PM
quote:Originally posted by pdrnec
If there's anything more important than my ego running around I want it caught and shot now.


:D


Hey Pat, in looking though the August '90 TW issue on '60 Larks, there is a note in the table that list the production figures by body type...

"In addition, three car chassis were sold in the U.S. without bodies."

Two of those must be your Frua Larks...do you know what the third was?



http://static.flickr.com/100/301465853_2dbe07b7c6_m.jpg
Dick Steinkamp
Bellingham, WA

pdrnec
12-14-2006, 05:54 PM
There were three prototype Frua Larks, one was destroyed in an accident. Oddly enough, the production orders I got from Mr. Quinn showed that 12 rolling chassis were shipped to Frua, I have no idea what happened to the remaining 9.





If there's anything more important than my ego running around I want it caught and shot now.

Mike Van Veghten
12-14-2006, 06:52 PM
As you all know water injection's been around since WW2.

Back in the mid-70's I made up my own manual water injection out of the windshield washer bottle system with different home made "jets".

Since water "doesn't" burn...(it WILL actually put the flame out), so I got some methanol and started mixing. While "any amount" helps....all the way to 100% in the bottle will give a seat of the pants positive feel.

My little POS car had a little help in the power department.

Another very positive benefit...the ports, valves, chambers, piston tops, et al...stay clean!

Mike

curt
12-14-2006, 08:24 PM
Is alcohol a problem in the 'rust' department? Sounds like a real power boooooster,alcohol and Water.

John Kirchhoff
12-15-2006, 08:47 AM
I don't like water in my alcohol, except maybe a bit of ice and a slice of lime.

StudeRich
12-15-2006, 04:13 PM
PDRNEC; I have to laugh at your handle, I have no idea what it means but it reminds me of a Trans.Dial gone wrong!![}:)]:D:D The "E" and "C" must be for "Execute" and "Charge" ! [^]

StudeRich
Studebakers Northwest
Ferndale, WA

John Kirchhoff
12-15-2006, 04:31 PM
For years tractor pullers made a very simple water injector. They had a tank with one hose plumbed to the low pressure side of the turbo or intake (with an adjustable valve to control the flow) and another to the pressure side. That way, the higher the boost, the more presure there was in the tank to push water into the intake. These were boys running 150-200 pounds of boost. 200 pounds of boost seems unreal, that's 13.5 atmospheres! Let's see, take a 289 and 200# boost and theoretically it would crank out 3,000hp. How's that for a grocery getter?

PackardV8
12-15-2006, 05:00 PM
Hi, John,

That level of boost also destroys about half the engines that try it in one run. I have seen 3/4" head studs pulled right out of the bottom of a heavy iron block, other blocks pulled in two pieces, crankshafts blown out the bottom of cross-bolted iron blocks. The level of mechanical stress in tractor pull engines is greater than in any other form of motor sports. They break more parts than top fuel dragsters.

Some of them are running 1/2" diameter pushrods which look like a section of a pry bar. The cylinder pressures are so high, it is almost impossible to open the exhaust valve.

thnx, jv

PackardV8

pdrnec
12-15-2006, 05:22 PM
quote:Originally posted by StudeRich

PDRNEC; I have to laugh at your handle, I have no idea what it means but it reminds me of a Trans.Dial gone wrong!![}:)]:D:D The "E" and "C" must be for "Execute" and "Charge" ! [^]

StudeRich
Studebakers Northwest
Ferndale, WA


Yeah, well - my people came from what is now the Czech Republic, it's a very poor country and they could only afford one vowel.


Pat Drnec

If there's anything more important than my ego running around I want it caught and shot now.

John Kirchhoff
12-15-2006, 09:21 PM
jv, one guy I work with used to pull tractors. I guess more than once he sent an injector into orbit like a roman candle. I remember when tractor pulls were ordinary farm tractors just brought in out of the field. I guess it's definately a sport of kings these days.

Stude4x4
12-15-2006, 10:13 PM
Last year we put a water injection kit on our '58 pickup. Couldn't really tell a difference and it sucked water like crazy. Every time you turned around it was out of water. We used it for towing and when we bought a diesel the truck never left the yard again. I do think that the engine needs to be tuned better. It used to ping really bad so we tried some avgas and it ran beautiful, but at $3.80/gal it wasn't practical. I think the water/alcohol injection works but it takes money and the time to tinker around with it.

Jake

-Home of John Studebaker-
http://community.webshots.com/user/Stude4x4
http://thumb14.webshots.net/t/57/157/5/81/52/505758152RLAddy_th.jpg

John Kirchhoff
12-15-2006, 11:15 PM
If a person isn't having tremendously serious problems with detonation, a richer mixture will help cool things down. Where as a normally aspirated engine shouldn't run much less than a 14:1 ratio, forced induction engines will often do ok with something like 12:1. The extra fuel vaporizing helps cool the intake charge. Not the most economical way to go, but if you're into boost you're probably not concerned about gas mileage anyway. Besides, it'd take a lot of lost fuel mileage to make up for a set of fried pistons, burned rings and scored cylinder walls.

PackardV8
12-16-2006, 01:02 AM
Hi, John,

Not sure where your info is coming from, but 12.5/1 air-fuel ratio is the stiochemetric (sp?) ideal for maximum power. Many engines will run at 14/1 under very light load and many injected engines go as high as 16/1. However, this is a lean mixture and will ping very readily.

A richer than ideal mixture, down around 11/1, will cool the pistons somewhat, but will also lose power.

Water/alcohol injection has always been the preferrable, albiet complicated solution to helping high boost or high compression engines avoid detonation. It is not used very often anymore, because it is not idiot-proof. It requires keeping the fluid reservior filled or having a sensor system which will limit throttle loading if the fluid is not present.

thnx, jv.

PackardV8