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studeclunker
12-14-2006, 03:36 PM
I've asked this question before. Did a search and can't find it. I think it was when my user name was out2lunch (appropriate). Anyway it's no longer around. Sorry about the caviat.

Ok, there's power coming from the coil. There's power at the points. There's no spark at the plugs. What's up? Suggestions anyone?

I believe last time I asked this Jeff may have had the answer, but I'm not sure.

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Lotsa Larks!
K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Studebaker!
Ron Smith

JDP
12-14-2006, 05:17 PM
Open and close the points manually with the key on and see if the points "spark", then do the same with the big coil wire near the engine and look for a nice spark. Sometimes just filing the points will get you fire.

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JDP
Arnold Md.
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65cruiser
12-14-2006, 05:22 PM
Check the condenser also--that killed mine a month or so ago.


quote:Originally posted by JDP

Open and close the points manually with the key on and see if the points "spark", then do the same with the big coil wire near the engine and look for a nice spark. Sometimes just filing the points will get you fire.

http://stude.com/sig.jpg
JDP
Arnold Md.
Studebaker On The Net
http://stude.com
My Ebay Items
http://www.stude.com/EBAY/

64 GT hawk
63 R2 4 speed GT Hawk (Black)
63 R2 4 speed GT Hawk (Black) #2
63 Avanti R1
63 Daytona convert
63 Lark 2 door
63 Lark 2 door #2
62 Lark 2 door
60 Hawk
59 3E truck
52 Starliner
51 Commander




________________________
Mark Anderson
1965 Cruiser
http://home.alltel.net/anderm

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CHAMP
12-14-2006, 06:20 PM
Might be a good time to think about Pertronix or Mallory electronic ignition!:)

GARY H 2DR.SEDAN 48 STUDEBAKER CHAMPION NORTHEAST MD.

studeclunker
12-14-2006, 08:58 PM
Being that I'm currently on unemployment, three hundred and fifty dollars is dear. Still, not being able to get around is worse. I just might contact msrs Thibeaut and Rice.

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Lotsa Larks!
K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Studebaker!
Ron Smith

John Kirchhoff
12-14-2006, 09:23 PM
I agree Ron, $350 is a chunk of money, especially when you don't have it. I know all about that. There's nothing wrong with points and coil ignition and you could replace the points, condenser and coil for about a tenth of the cost of the very desirable but unnecessary electronic conversion. As has been mentioned, clean the points, sometimes all it takes is to drag a heavy piece of paper like a business card between them to clean them up. File them if needed and still clean them up with paper (after you gap them, feeler gauges sometimes have a bit of oil on thtem). If you still can't get any spark, probably one of the other two is the culprit. If you have a multi meter, take the condenser wire off, set your meter for resistance (ohms)at the lowest setting and touch one electrode to the wire terminal and the other to the metal case of the condenser. Watch the meter and you should see the needle rise and then fall back to zero. Reverse the leads and you should see the needle jump up and then settle back to zero. If the needle goes up and stays up, the condenser is shot. If you don't have a meter, disconnect the wire from the coil to the distrbutor and replace it with another piece of wire with the other end bare of insulation. Remove the ignition wire from the distributor but leave the other end in the coil. Turn the ignition on, hold the coil wire away from the engine block just a bit and quickly touch the bare end of the little wire against the block for just a fraction of a second. If the coil is ok, you should get a spark from the coil wire. If you don't, try several times while you move the coil wire closer to the block. If you can't get anything no matter how close the wire is, it's probably the coil. If you get a new coil, make sure you get one that's not for electronic ignitions. If memory serves me right, old style coils have 3 ohms resistance while the electronic ones run about have that amount. Swap them and the new style will run for a while, but there's a very good chance you'll burn the winding out of it in short order. By the way, if you see any oil leaking out of the coil, it's shot.

GTtim
12-14-2006, 10:11 PM
Ron, I would suspect the rotor or the spring contact beneath the coil wire in the top of the distributor cap. Check the easy things first.


quote
Ok, there's power coming from the coil. There's power at the points. There's no spark at the plugs. What's up? Suggestions anyone?

I believe last time I asked this Jeff may have had the answer, but I'm not sure.[/font=Comic Sans MS]

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b18/Studeclunker/studebaby/54wagonblue-2.jpghttp://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b18/Studeclunker/studebaby/red54wagon-1.jpg
Lotsa Larks!
K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Studebaker!
Ron Smith
[/quote]

Tim K.
'64 R2 GT Hawk

studeclunker
12-14-2006, 11:39 PM
Does anyone know what the difference between the distributor Mr. Thibeault offers and the one Cathcart offers (besides cost)?

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Lotsa Larks!
K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Studebaker!
Ron Smith

CHAMP
12-15-2006, 08:04 AM
I bought the one from Bill Cathcart and it has worked very good for me.

GARY H 2DR.SEDAN 48 STUDEBAKER CHAMPION NORTHEAST MD.

StudeRich
12-16-2006, 02:40 AM
Studeclunker; what makes you think you need a Distributor? What model Stude is it? Fairborn Studebaker sells the Pertronix Electronic conversion kit for all models at around 100.00, much less than 350.00 They work great, just replace the points and condensor with the module and you're done, forever! Assuming there is no major problem with your bushings and advance weights etc.

StudeRich
Studebakers Northwest
Ferndale, WA

studelover
12-16-2006, 05:09 AM
the coil wire, the end going into the cap. check it continum

Studes forever!

CHAMP
12-16-2006, 08:22 AM
The Pertronix kit is about 70-75 Dollars from Bill Cathcart. I bought a rebuilt distributor with the pertronix allready installed for my Champion. It was about 160.00 Dollars from Bill Cathcart.

GARY H 2DR.SEDAN 48 STUDEBAKER CHAMPION NORTHEAST MD.

Dick Steinkamp
12-16-2006, 10:56 AM
I like the Pertronix a in my '54 a lot also, but I wouldn't use it to trouble shoot or attempt to solve a non-running car problem...I'd consider getting one AFTER you have figured out what is wrong and have the car running.

By trying to install a Pertronix unit in a non-running vehicle, you introduce one more variable into the trouble shooting equation that will make getting it running that much tougher.



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Dick Steinkamp
Bellingham, WA

klifton1
12-17-2006, 05:35 PM
Does this car have the origional wire harness still in it? It sounds like maybe an open in the dist. lead ???? Just a guess.
Klif

55 Speedster
42 Champ Coupe

studeclunker
12-17-2006, 06:09 PM
Well, it's running. Why, I don't know. But it is. I tried the points. Started with loosening the wires to the points, then checking them. Nothing there. Checked the points. Looked fine, no buring or gunk, gap looked good. Put the cap back on and moved the distributor in a full range of movement then set it back where it had been. Started right up. It's been fine since. Go figure!

By the by, this engine had done this several times in the past. Same fix. What I need is a competent Studebaker mechanic to look it over and fix the real problem.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b18/Studeclunker/studebaby/54wagonblue-2.jpghttp://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b18/Studeclunker/studebaby/red54wagon-1.jpg
Lotsa Larks!
K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Studebaker!
Ron Smith