Dumb nameplate-attachment question

[Bill Pressler]

I'm supposed to receive the Strato Blue '64 Daytona Hardtop that I remember from years ago in my hometown in NW PA, on a trailer from upper WI, tomorrow or Wednesday.

One thing I know it needs, and it's small...the LF fender "Daytona" nameplate is broken off. I've already bought a new one from SASCO.

It has some very small 'prongs' on the back of it, very thin. What do I use on the back of the nameplate, inside the fender, to secure the nameplate? Are there bolts that tiny?! (LOL)

Thanks in advance for your help.

Bill Pressler
Kent, OH
'63 Lark Daytona Skytop R1
'64 Daytona Hardtop

[Carl Purdy]

Have you got a place that deals with old Mustangs. The have the clips that holds them on.


7G-Q1 49 2R12 10G-F5 56B-D4 56B-F2
Middle Tennessee 37th Annual Car Show April 4 2009

[PlainBrownR2]

When I attached my "Commander" nameplates, all I had to do was clean out the tiny holes on the fender. The holes on the fender were just large enough to hold the prongs and the nameplate to the fender. The prongs on the nameplate would then align to the holes on the fender and press into the holes and stay there. I had also remembered not to press too hard to shove the nameplate into the fender because there was the possibility of ending up with a two piece nameplate because it had split in two.

[img=left]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/My%201950%202r5%20Studebaker%20Pickup%20with%20turbocharger/P1000137-1.jpg[/img=left][img=left]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/My%201950%202r5%20Studebaker%20Pickup%20with%20turbocharger/P1000145-1.jpg[/img=left][IMG=right]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/Ex%20Studebaker%20Plant%20Locomotive/P1000578-1.jpg[/IMG=right]
[IMG=right]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/My%201964%20Studebaker%20Commander%20R2/P1010168.jpg[/IMG=right]

[Dick Steinkamp]

There were a variety of ways that nameplates were attached, but I think in '64 they were using little "barrel" clips. Sometimes they came out when the nameplate was removed and sometimes they stayed in the holes. I believe SASCO still has them.

IMHO, the problem is going to be that the repoped nameplates have larger pins than stock ones AND they generally don't line up with the holes in the body (although the newest ones are hopefully better).

I've had to modify or break off some pins in order for them to fit. Also, I've had success with the emblem adhesive you can buy at most auto parts stores.

Dick Steinkamp
Bellingham, WA

[BobGlasscock]

Old fashioned hardware stores have spring steel thingees that are flat with two fingers pointing towards each other that are bent slightly upwards from the face of the thingee and there is a hole in between them. You just push the spring steel clip over the prongs and it holds the script tight against the other side of the body.

'50 Champion, 1 family owner

[BobPalma]

What Bob & Dick said, Bill. Wait until the car arrives and you've removed the remainder of the old script before you do anything, as that will determine how top procede.

Then see how the prongs on the new one line up with the holes in the fender. If it is a good fit, find an auto body supply house. Kent is big enough that there should be an appropriate one.

Go there with the new script in hand and tell them you need the barrel clips to hold it to the fender. They'll know what you mean and if they don't, find another place with a clue; any auto body supply house worth its salt should know what you are talking about and have the clips. (OTOH, you might investiagte the shop that did the repair on the '63 after last year's "incident." They might have a couple barrel clips they'll just give you.)

Back at home, pry the remainder of any old clips out of the fender. Insert the new barrel clips first, then the script. Be careful, you only have one chance; one or more prongs may break off it you try to pry it back out.

If one or more prings don't line up, carefully break off the offending prongs and use double-sided molding tape along the entire back side of the script in addition to whatever prongs remain. Take your time trimming the molding tape after you've stuck it on the backside of the script, so it can't be seen outside the silouette of the script. BP

[rockne10]

Both the barrel clips (available in multiple sizes) and the pin retainers (also in multiple sizes) are standard hardware kept in stock at any body shop that's been in business for any length of time.
When I installed the NOS Studebaker script on the grill of my '53 it took two different size retainer clips. The pins fit the holes perfectly. The repro Commander script had larger pins and the pins were not spaced correctly to fit the holes. Either the mold shrunk or the casting did. After a very expensive plating job, I had to tediously relocate and enlarge the holes without flaking the chrome.

Brad Johnson
Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
'33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight, '53 Commander Starlight

[Andy R.]

Barrel clips:



Andy
62 GT

[Bill Pressler]

Thanks, all, for the excellent tips!

Small stuff like that nameplate will drive me nuts 'til I get it taken care of! I know, obsessive-compulsive!

Thanks again,
Bill Pressler
Kent, OH
'63 Lark Daytona Skytop R1
'64 Daytona Hardtop