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  • My button's too short!

    OK, let's not start with the cheap shots...

    I made and installed some custom carpeting over some Dynaliner foam sound-deadening material to reduce the noise level in my Champion. Now, it is very difficult to depress the starter button - I still can, but the depth of the surrounding foam/carpet results in the button almost being flush with the surrounding material. I relieved out some of the foam to make a depression, but I was wondering if there is a common method of "lengthening" the button (let the jokes begin, I can take it).

    Of course, I could weld a home-made extension, but if someone has figured out an easy method, I could save some brain cells here.

    Any ideas?

    Las Vegas, NV - Stop by, coffee's on!
    '51 Champion Business Coupe G899965 10G-Q4-1434

  • #2
    Put a switch on the dash like the 53"s

    Mabel 1949 Champion
    1957 Silverhawk
    1955 Champion 4Dr.Regal
    Gus 1958 Transtar
    1955 President State
    1957 Golden Hawk
    Fresno,Ca
    Mabel 1949 Champion
    Hawk 1957 Silverhawk
    Gus 1958 Transtar
    The Prez 1955 President State
    Blu 1957 Golden Hawk
    Daisy 1954 Regal Commander Starlight Coupe
    Fresno,Ca

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    • #3
      How about one of those rubber chair leg protectors? That might cure your starter button dysfunction..

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      • #4
        I've never even looked at mine close enough to know, so I'm just guessing with common sense. If the switch has ears with rivets or screws attaching it to the floor, why not just put some big washers between the floor and the switch base thus raising the whole switch instead of lengthening the button? Cut out whatever material is under the carpet to make room for the shims so you have only the carpet thickness above the base of the switch.

        '50 Champion, 1 family owner

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        • #5
          geesh, 3 answers in 31 seconds......

          '50 Champion, 1 family owner

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          • #6
            I looked at the pics of the starter switches at Chuck Collins' parts web site, http://www.studebakerparts.com. The "correct" switch for your car seems to be p/n 519829. But look at the next switch, p/n 665190 or 195948 - it seems to have a much longer snout on it but probably the same bolt pattern. While the long button is a non-grounding type, you probably just need to ground one side of it.

            [img=left]http://www.studegarage.com/images/indy/gary_indycar25_vvsm.jpg[/img=left] Gary Ash
            Dartmouth, Mass.
            '32 Indy car replica (in progress)
            '48 M5
            '65 Wagonaire Commander
            '63 Wagonaire Standard
            web site at http://www.studegarage.com
            Gary Ash
            Dartmouth, Mass.

            '32 Indy car replica (in progress)
            ’41 Commander Land Cruiser
            '48 M5
            '65 Wagonaire Commander
            '63 Wagonaire Standard
            web site at http://www.studegarage.com

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            • #7
              Thanks Gary - BTW your new signature picture is great.

              Las Vegas, NV - Stop by, coffee's on!
              '51 Champion Business Coupe G899965 10G-Q4-1434

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              • #8
                You wouldn't want to move the switch off the floor. I've always thought it was neat that most people didn't know how to start my 52. I used to quietly turn on my switch, put my hands on the wheel, and then while talking to someone carefully push down the starter. They would often look very confused when the engine started.


                1952 Champion Starlight, 1962 Daytona, both w/overdrive.Searcy,Arkansas
                "I may be lazy, but I'm not shiftless."
                "In the heart of Arkansas."
                Searcy, Arkansas
                1952 Commander 2 door. Really fine 259.
                1952 2R pickup

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                • #9
                  I would roll the carpet back and remove the Dynaliner Foam in that area. Install Dynamat in that area. It's only about an eighth of an inch thick.
                  Elevating the switch could interfere with clutch operation, as would adding a spacer on the bottom of the pedal to accomplish the same thing.
                  Brad Johnson,
                  SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
                  Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
                  '33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight. '53 Commander Starlight
                  '56 Sky Hawk in process

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