PDA

View Full Version : No lights



studeclunker
12-08-2006, 04:40 AM
You know, reading the Ammeter Dance post reminded me...

I have a '63 Daytona Wagonaire. It's in pretty good shape all round and runs fairly well. The problem is that the lights won't work. None of them. No dash, turn, running or headlamps. It's not a fuse, they're all fine. I turn on the lights and there's a 'plink' sound from the breaker under the dash. They never even flicker.

To be honest, I haven't done more than a cursory check. The car isn't anywhere close to being back on the road. Still quite a lot of work to do. So I'm not in a bleeding rush. Like I am with the Champ.

I would appreciate any suggestions anyone would care to give. Thanks in advance.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b18/Studeclunker/studebaby/54wagonblue-2.jpghttp://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b18/Studeclunker/studebaby/red54wagon-1.jpg
Lotsa Larks!
K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Studebaker!
Ron Smith

keeffer
12-08-2006, 07:30 AM
you have a bare wire touching check all your wires around the grommets

keith kirchhoff
brockport ny 14420

bams50
12-08-2006, 09:45 AM
I agree- definitely a dead short.

Robert K. Andrews Owner- IoMT (Island of Misfit Toys!)
Parish, central NY 13131
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2358680/1

Skip Lackie
12-08-2006, 09:45 AM
quote:Originally posted by keeffer

you have a bare wire touching check all your wires around the grommets

keith kirchhoff
brockport ny 14420


Right. You have a dead short somewhere that is tripping the breaker. (Another possibility is the breaker itself is bad.) You can narrow it down a bit. Does it happen with just the park/tail lights lit? If not, then it's not in those circuits. Does it happen on both high and low beams? If in only one, then you have identified the offending circuit. If it's just in one headlight circuit, I would work backward from the lights to look for bare wires. Don't forget the dimmer switch -- they've been known to go bad. If all that wiring looks okay, then it might be in the light switch or the wiring behind the dash. And you could just replace the breaker and see what happens.

Skip

John Kirchhoff
12-08-2006, 10:06 AM
One thing I might add, whatever you do DON'T wire around the breaker unless you're absolutely sure it's the offending part. If you do and it's not, your wiring's gonna get hot. Hey, that rhymes, I think I've missed missed my calling as a poet!

gordr
12-08-2006, 01:55 PM
quote:Originally posted by hotwheels63r2

the 63 has a breaker built into the switch (like most studes) The plink you hear is the breaker.

The high beam switch is probably whats wrong. Sometimes the 63 and 64 headlight switches have a part inside that will break and ground.

Most of mine were one or the other.

Both the switches are not bad pricewise.


No breaker in the switch as I recall. Both Larks and Hawks use rocker switches. Breakers are small rectangular tin boxes with two studs. Sometimes the breaker works loose from its bracket, and the long "load side" stud contacts ground.

Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

studeclunker
12-08-2006, 07:11 PM
Yeah, well, all the things I've checked first. The bare wire theory is the same as mine. THAT takes much more time to hunt down. The harness seems fine up front. I disconnected the headlamps and horns and it still tripped. Haven't done anything in back yet. It's possible on the brights switch. I'll try that next. Who knows? It could be just a bad switch. Those are a bloody pain to remove!:(

Thanks for the suggestions!:D

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b18/Studeclunker/studebaby/54wagonblue-2.jpghttp://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b18/Studeclunker/studebaby/red54wagon-1.jpg
Lotsa Larks!
K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Studebaker!
Ron Smith

John Kirchhoff
12-08-2006, 09:13 PM
If it isn't too much of a headache, you could remove a wire at a time from the ignition switch to help isolate which system the problem is in. Then you'd have only 10 miles of wire to check instead of 50!

PalmerGA
12-08-2006, 09:23 PM
My car sat for a while and the headlights wouldn't work at all until I replaced the dimmer/high beam switch. Now they work fine. Don't know what to say about your other light problems though.

Jim's pride....
1963 Daytona Convertible

Skip Lackie
12-09-2006, 09:42 AM
quote:Originally posted by studeclunker

Yeah, well, all the things I've checked first. The bare wire theory is the same as mine. THAT takes much more time to hunt down. The harness seems fine up front. I disconnected the headlamps and horns and it still tripped. Haven't done anything in back yet. It's possible on the brights switch. I'll try that next. Who knows? It could be just a bad switch. Those are a bloody pain to remove!:(

Thanks for the suggestions!:D


Lotsa Larks!
K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Studebaker!
Ron Smith


Ron-
Maybe I misunderstood your message, but it doesn't sound like you're understanding mine, either. Instead of turning on the headlights, just put on the parking lights. If the taillights light up and the fuse doesn't blow, then your problem is NOT in the rear wiring.

It sounds like you disconnected the headlight wiring up by the radiator, and not at the switch. If you did, most of the headlight wiring was still hot and still could be the problem. The horn wiring is on a different circuit and doesn't matter. Turn on the headlights. If the breaker trips, turn them off. Wait for the breaker to reset. Hit the dimmer switch. Turn the lights on again. If the breaker trips again, then the problem is NOT in the wiring between the dimmer switch and the headlights. It is either: (1) the dimmer switch itself (a good candidate); (2) the breaker; (3) the light switch itself; or (4) the wiring between the light switch and the dimmer switch and/or the connections at either switch.

Skip

studeclunker
12-09-2006, 02:52 PM
Skip, I understood your kind message. Both of them!:D Yes, I've tried the running lights. The breaker won't even allow the turn signals (light switch off). They give one blink then PLINK off goes the breaker (at least I know they'll work). I tried swapping out the breaker with one from another Lark on the property, with the same result. I fear it's a bare wire somewhere...:(


http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b18/Studeclunker/studebaby/54wagonblue-2.jpghttp://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b18/Studeclunker/studebaby/red54wagon-1.jpg
Lotsa Larks!
K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Studebaker!
Ron Smith

gordr
12-09-2006, 11:19 PM
quote:Originally posted by studeclunker

Skip, I understood your kind message. Both of them!:D Yes, I've tried the running lights. The breaker won't even allow the turn signals (light switch off). They give one blink then PLINK off goes the breaker (at least I know they'll work). I tried swapping out the breaker with one from another Lark on the property, with the same result. I fear it's a bare wire somewhere...:(


http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b18/Studeclunker/studebaby/54wagonblue-2.jpghttp://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b18/Studeclunker/studebaby/red54wagon-1.jpg
Lotsa Larks!
K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Studebaker!
Ron Smith


Big clue there, Ron! If the turn signals don't work, that pretty much confines the short to the park/tail/stop lamp department. Headlights themselves are probably not involved, except that the tail lamps have to be on for the headlights to work. IIRC, the parking lights go out when the headlamps are selected, so it pretty much has to be a fault in one of the rear tail/stop/signal lamp units, or the harness supplying one or both.

First place I'd look is in the lamps themselves. Somebody MIGHT have jammed a single-contact bulb in one of the sockets where a double-contact (1157) is called for. That could cause a short to ground on BOTH the tail and stop/turn circuits, which are normally separate. Or else the wire harness to one of the lamps could have gotten chafed or pinched.

Look to the rear of the car. Dollars to donuts that's where you'll find the trouble.


Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands