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Orestudeguy
12-07-2006, 12:21 AM
Sometime back I was reading a thread on the use of Zinc in engine oil.
From what I recall the recommended oil for use in our "older" Stude engines was Shell Rotella oil.
Designed for use in diesel engines, it is high in detergent and will protect camshafts, solid lifters, and the old metal used in Stude (and others) engines.
I was chatting with my chapters club secretary about using the info in a "tech page" in our monthly newsletter.
She agreed, and now that I go looking for it, I can't find it.
I thought I printed it, and I'm sure I did. I just filed it so well,even I can't find it!
Anyway, does someone recall that information?
I went searching on the net and found all kinds of stuff, all too long, and seems to be open to opinion.
If someone has that info would you please e-mail me. And I need permission to reprint in our club newsletter.
Much thanks,

George
65 Commander 2door
64 Wagonaire 3 now!
63 Champ
63 GT Hawk
51 Champion Starlight Coupe

curt
12-07-2006, 08:10 AM
Shell changed the formula to meet the new diesel engine polution standards. Shell says they have less zinc in the new formula but put other chemicals in the formula of Rotela to do the job zinc has done in the past.

showbizkid
12-07-2006, 08:52 AM
I found this thread:

http://www.studebakerdriversclub.com/sdc_forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=6008&SearchTerms=rotella


[img=left]http://members.cox.net/clarknovak/lark.gif[/img=left]

Clark in San Diego
'63 F2/Lark Standard
http://studeblogger.blogspot.com

63Avanti
12-07-2006, 09:06 AM
in the non-synthetic oils, any of the 15w-40 "diesel rated" oils will keep you and your engine very happy. These include Mobil 1300, (shell)Rotella T(non-synthetic, careful), and (chevron)Delvo 400. for more details than you can absorb, ask the question on the leading oil-obsessed forum http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?Cat=0 one of my favorites. As for the Zinc, again from that obsessed forum, it is best in a careful mix with other chemicals, as no additive can handle any one issue completely.

Rule of thumb. If you are using additives, you are buying the wrong oil!


quote:Originally posted by curt

Shell changed the formula to meet the new diesel engine polution standards. Shell says they have less zinc in the new formula but put other chemicals in the formula of Rotela to do the job zinc has done in the past.



Terry, North Texas
1963 Avanti R2, 63SR1065
(in stage 1 resto "Project A")
http://sterkel.org/avanti
1985 Kubota L2202(Diesel)
2000 VW Jetta GLS
1999 Toyota rice burner

Tom B
12-07-2006, 08:59 PM
The guy in my FLAPS told me that Deisel oils, (Rotella T) were being reforumulated to eliminate the Zinc compounds, but good ole STP was well stocked with it.

What I hadn't realized was that all valve lifters are now rollers, and the old flat tops (that we need the zinc for) have been eliminated.

Tom Bredehoft
'53 Commander Coupe
'60 Lark VI
'05 Legacy Ltd Wagon
All three Indiana built OD cars

rwirtzfeld1
12-12-2006, 07:08 PM
quote:Originally posted by 63Avanti

in the non-synthetic oils, any of the 15w-40 "diesel rated" oils will keep you and your engine very happy. These include Mobil 1300, (shell)Rotella T(non-synthetic, careful), and (chevron)Delvo 400. for more details than you can absorb, ask the question on the leading oil-obsessed forum http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?Cat=0 one of my favorites. As for the Zinc, again from that obsessed forum, it is best in a careful mix with other chemicals, as no additive can handle any one issue completely.

Rule of thumb. If you are using additives, you are buying the


wrong oil!


You mention to be careful of the synthetic Shell Rotella, how come?

Thanks,

Randy


quote:Originally posted by curt

Shell changed the formula to meet the new diesel engine polution standards. Shell says they have less zinc in the new formula but put other chemicals in the formula of Rotela to do the job zinc has done in the past.



Terry, North Texas
1963 Avanti R2, 63SR1065
(in stage 1 resto "Project A")
http://sterkel.org/avanti
1985 Kubota L2202(Diesel)
2000 VW Jetta GLS
1999 Toyota rice burner

63Avanti
12-27-2006, 08:02 AM
I am a deep fan of synthetics, and exclusively use it in brakes, engines, transmissions, and differentials. Where I am holding off is in my studebaker 289. Waiting for beating the Studebaker engine oil leak before investing. until then I am using 15w-40 non-synthetic CI or CI+.


quote:Originally posted by rwirtzfeld1


quote:Originally posted by 63Avanti

in the non-synthetic oils, any of the 15w-40 "diesel rated" oils will keep you and your engine very happy. These include Mobil 1300, (shell)Rotella T(non-synthetic, careful), and (chevron)Delvo 400. for more details than you can absorb, ask the question on the leading oil-obsessed forum http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?Cat=0 one of my favorites. As for the Zinc, again from that obsessed forum, it is best in a careful mix with other chemicals, as no additive can handle any one issue completely.

Rule of thumb. If you are using additives, you are buying the


wrong oil!


You mention to be careful of the synthetic Shell Rotella, how come?

Thanks,

Randy


quote:Originally posted by curt

Shell changed the formula to meet the new diesel engine polution standards. Shell says they have less zinc in the new formula but put other chemicals in the formula of Rotela to do the job zinc has done in the past.



Terry, North Texas
1963 Avanti R2, 63SR1065
(in stage 1 resto "Project A")
http://sterkel.org/avanti
1985 Kubota L2202(Diesel)
2000 VW Jetta GLS
1999 Toyota rice burner





Terry, North Texas
1963 Avanti R2, 63SR1065
(in stage 1 resto "Project A")
http://sterkel.org/avanti
1985 Kubota L2202(Diesel)
2000 VW Jetta GLS
1999 Toyota rice burner

rwirtzfeld1
01-02-2007, 07:26 AM
The reason I asked about the synthetic Shell Rotella is I recently switched to it in my 170 OHV. I had been running the conventional 15-40, but wanted to run the synthetic due to the temperature that is can get in South Dakota. When I overhauled my engine I took a lot of time eliminating oil leaks, had the timing cover machined for a real seal...etc.. Anyway, I had no leaks with the convential but when I switched to the synthetic, the lawn sprinkler was on.

I emailed Shell Rotella, and they had some good information. They said when they first formulated synthetic this was a huge problem due to the fact that synthetic had negative seal swell, meaning it actually shrunk the seals. After reformulating the oil they ended up at neutral seal swell (neither shrinks or expands seals). However Shell said there convential oil provides positive seal swell, which is the difference in leaks.

Just thought I would pass that along. Needless to say, I removed the synthetic after 500 miles of driving.

63Avanti
01-02-2007, 08:45 AM
Once/If I get the leaks under control, I am going to one of the HDEO 5w-40 CJ-5 (or replacement as the years progress). I will do the same due diligence you did, and if the formulae is not somewhat seal swelling, I will add a seal sweller such as SealLube. Not an endorsement, as my experience is still anecdotal, but I have had good results in diesels, tractors, and I "think" it has helped the Avanti.


quote:Originally posted by rwirtzfeld1

The reason I asked about the synthetic Shell Rotella is I recently switched to it in my 170 OHV. I had been running the conventional 15-40, but wanted to run the synthetic due to the temperature that is can get in South Dakota. When I overhauled my engine I took a lot of time eliminating oil leaks, had the timing cover machined for a real seal...etc.. Anyway, I had no leaks with the convential but when I switched to the synthetic, the lawn sprinkler was on.

I emailed Shell Rotella, and they had some good information. They said when they first formulated synthetic this was a huge problem due to the fact that synthetic had negative seal swell, meaning it actually shrunk the seals. After reformulating the oil they ended up at neutral seal swell (neither shrinks or expands seals). However Shell said there convential oil provides positive seal swell, which is the difference in leaks.

Just thought I would pass that along. Needless to say, I removed the synthetic after 500 miles of driving.




Terry, North Texas
1963 Avanti R2, 63SR1065
(in stage 1 resto "Project A")
http://sterkel.org/avanti
1985 Kubota L2202(Diesel)
2000 VW Jetta GLS
1999 Toyota rice burner