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tstclr
11-29-2006, 10:14 AM
The brakes on my 64 Daytona thump like crazy. I suspect I have a warped drum and since I feel it in the seat of my pants, suspect a rear drum. The left rear drum separates from the hub, but the right rear will only come off with the puller (bringing the hub with it). Should the drum separate from the hub like the left one did? If not, how do I machine it?
Thanks and sorry for my lack of knowledge with these tapered axle rear ends.
Todd


63 Lark 2dr Sedan
64 Daytona 4dr Sedan

CHAMP
11-29-2006, 10:23 AM
The drum and hub are supposed to come off together so that is probably the drum that is causing your problem. I think the lug studs have to be swedged to the drum. The way it is now the drum is probably running out of round.

GARY H 2DR.SEDAN 48 STUDEBAKER CHAMPION NORTHEAST MD.

tstclr
11-29-2006, 10:57 AM
Greaaattt... Looks like I'm going to be looking for a new hub/drum.
[xx(]
Todd


63 Lark 2dr Sedan
64 Daytona 4dr Sedan

DEEPNHOCK
11-29-2006, 11:01 AM
Not a silly question at all...
Best way (and correct way) would be to remove the loose drum and then remove the hub.
Take both parts to a good auto machine shop.
Ask them if the drum is bent, and if it can be re-swaged with new studs back on to the hub.
Then have them make a clean up pass (as small as possible) on the brake drum lathe (AFTER they have mounted the drum to the hub).
Good chance the drum is shot, and will need to be replaced.
But the hub, unless it has some other kind of damage, should be ok to reuse. Just make sure the machine shop doesn't hog out the lug stud holes in the hub by pressing the swaged studs through the holes. They should have a small cutter tool that slips over the threaded part of the stud and it cuts just the swaged part off of the old stud.
Don't bother trying to reuse your old studs... Toss them...
(But note if they are LH thread on your older Stude's)
Hope the info helps.
Jeff[8D]



quote:Originally posted by tstclr

The brakes on my 64 Daytona thump like crazy. I suspect I have a warped drum and since I feel it in the seat of my pants, suspect a rear drum. The left rear drum separates from the hub, but the right rear will only come off with the puller (bringing the hub with it). Should the drum separate from the hub like the left one did? If not, how do I machine it?
Thanks and sorry for my lack of knowledge with these tapered axle rear ends.
Todd


63 Lark 2dr Sedan
64 Daytona 4dr Sedan


http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j54/deepnhock/Jeff%20Rice%20Studebaker%20Pictures/1937StudebakerCoupeExpressJeffRicee.jpg

DEEPNHOCK at Gmail.com
Brooklet, Georgia
'37 Coupe Express (never ending project)
'37 Coupe Express Trailer (project)
'61 Hawk (project)
http://community.webshots.com/user/deepnhock

Roscomacaw
11-29-2006, 11:08 AM
It COULD be that the loose drum is causing a problem but it is far from a certainty that that's the case.
If you pull that wheel and find that this drum's really sloppy on the hub, that would be a good indicator that it's the troublemaker. But if you can manually hold it up snug against the hub and there's no slop to it radailly or otherwise, it CAN be used like this since the lug nuts will hold the wheel and and it in place.
On the other hand.... it could be that it's loose because some unkowing sort deliberately took it OFF the hub in the course of trying to effect repairs in the past. Using to wrong type puller might manage to loose the drum from the hub, but it also may well have distorted the drum in the course of doing so!:(
As Champ has said, the drums are held to the hubs by the lug studs being swedged (crimped, if you will) once the hub and drum are together.
To see if this drum's screwed up, take it to a auto machine shop and let them check it on their brake lathe. If it's outta round, they'll see that immeadiately. If it's warped, you might's well figure on finding a better hub-drum assy. I doubt there'd be enough meat to turn it to where it'd eliminate the out-of-round. [:I]

Reading what Jeff's just posted, I might add that if the studs WERE LH thread, they don't HAVE TO be replaced by LH threads if it comes to that. RH will work just fine.;)

Miscreant adrift in
the BerStuda Triangle!!

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe

kmul221
11-29-2006, 11:12 AM
Todd I have a couple of good used 10" unfinned rears here if that is your correct size.The fellow in the ONT chpt from Havelock has new ones.Can't recall his Email but his name is Russ Cairns----Kevin

Roscomacaw
11-29-2006, 02:25 PM
If I remember correctly, this car has a 6 in it - right? That's gonna want a 9" drum on the rear. PN 1558904 for just the drum. PN 1558897 for the hub & drum assy.:D

Miscreant adrift in
the BerStuda Triangle!!

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe

tstclr
11-29-2006, 02:41 PM
Thanks for the info guys! The ol' girl is on the road and running well other than this small hiccup. I'll pull 'er apart tonight and send the drum off to the machine shop.

I finally took a couple of photos. Here they are (and yes, the photos DO her justice!)

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c351/tstclr/mydaytona1.jpg
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c351/tstclr/mydaytona2.jpg
As most of you know, the front fender emblems are incorrect. The owner states the Daytona emblems were ripped off while attending a swap meet!
Todd

63 Lark 2dr Sedan
64 Daytona 4dr Sedan

55s
11-29-2006, 11:56 PM
Todd

Wow! Is this the one you just did up, or is that the 63?

Looks good, especially the stainless around the side windows - a rare option.

PaulR.

PS re drums: Russ Carnes owns/runs Canadian Studebaker. Roy Graham may have some, as might Richard Griggs or me, Paul Revell. Randy N. may be a local source. Good luck.

Paul

studeclunker
11-30-2006, 03:51 PM
I had a thumper once too. The right front drum had literally broken in half!

On a side note; your car's trim screams Daytona! I'm not partial to the 64-66 body style. Yours is an exceptionally nice example though. Congratulations on an excellent deal!

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b18/Studeclunker/studebaby/54wagonblue-2.jpghttp://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b18/Studeclunker/studebaby/red54wagon-1.jpg
Lotsa Larks!
K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Studebaker!
Ron Smith

tstclr
11-30-2006, 07:12 PM
Well, it seems that it is that right rear drum. Looks like it suffered warpage from an improper puller. I'm going to try some of the local stude guys first to see if I can get a complete hub/drum assembly. What bums me out is I had another complete Dana 27 from my 63 but I swapped it with a 44 out of a parts car I had and it went to the scrap yard with it.[xx(] Next time I keep everything JUUUST in case!
Todd
P.S Mr.Biggs, I checked those part numbers you listed on SASCO's online catalogue and they show neither in stock. I would've thought they'd have hundreds in stock since they are for a 6 cylinder car.

63 Lark 2dr Sedan
64 Daytona 4dr Sedan

tstclr
12-03-2006, 11:02 AM
No luck finding a drum locally. If I had an 8 cylinder car with 10" drums it wouldn't have been a problem- lots of them around here. Does anyone on here have a good 9" drum (with hub) that they'd be willing to part with? It would probably be cheaper to find one from a member here in Canada as shipping wouldn't be as much (plus it would likely arrive quicker) but I'll consider any at this point. I can pay by Paypal to expedite things. I really can't drive the 64 until I get a good drum as the existing drum is starting to damage the studs. The holes are much bigger than the studs. It looks like it might be an AMC drum...
Thanks
Todd


63 Lark 2dr Sedan
64 Daytona 4dr Sedan

Swifster
12-03-2006, 12:09 PM
Todd, believe it or not, I checked on car-part.com and there is a yard in Idaho that has a '64 Commander with a 6 cylinder and it looks almost complete. They should have your drums of the rear axle of that car. Of course, they may also want to sell you the rear axle too...

And make sure to remind them to use a puller...[:o)]

Auto Wrex Plus USA-ID(Burley)1-208-678-7580

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Tom - Lakeland, FL

1964 Studebaker Daytona

Michigan Speed - www.michiganspeed.com
Club Hot Rod - www.clubhotrod.com
LS1 Tech - www.ls1tech.com

Roscomacaw
12-03-2006, 09:15 PM
I probably have one here. It'd be morning before I could go out and see if I can find one.

Miscreant adrift in
the BerStuda Triangle!!

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe

tstclr
12-03-2006, 10:10 PM
Thanks guys. A fellow in Michigan emailed me and says he has one. I'm also waiting to hear back from Don Simmons at Silvertone Exhaust. He thinks he may have one kicking around. I'll keep you all posted.
Todd


63 Lark 2dr Sedan
64 Daytona 4dr Sedan

tstclr
12-13-2006, 10:31 PM
More questions:
I got my NOS drum today and the vendor also sent along new studs. Well, the studs are different than the ones on my car (look a little thicker-my existing nuts wont thread onto them. The box the studs came in says they are 1/2"-20 X 1 7/16. Is this the correct stud? It looks a touch shorter than the one in my existing hub.
I thought I'd fit the drum to my hub while the hub was still on the axle. Should it fit on the shoulder of the stud? Mine didn't-the shoulder was too big and there was very little of it sticking out from the hub.Since I knew I was going to replace the studs, I chamfered what little shoulder there was in the hopes that the drum would centre properly. No dice-on a short road test there was still a thump. Without the drum sitting on the shoulder (which is maybe 1/16") there is lots of slop. See Pic:
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c351/tstclr/drum.jpg

Here's a couple of pics of the studs.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c351/tstclr/stud1.jpg
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c351/tstclr/stud.jpg
The studs in the hub have the "R" on the ends whereas these ones don't. Can I use these studs if I get the correct lugs? Should the shoulders of the new studs fit through the holes in the drum without using a press? I thought you had to swedge the stud to the drum for a tight fit and that if you didn't, the drum would slide on and allow you to remove it for servicing without having to pull the hub. I'm probably over analysing things again but I don't want to screw up this NOS drum as I had a hard enough time getting it. Ideally, I'd like to have the drum slide nicely on the shoulders of the stud in order to be properly centered and easily removeable so that I don't have to pull the hub.
I appreciate any help on this!
Todd




63 Lark 2dr Sedan
64 Daytona 4dr Sedan

JDP
12-13-2006, 10:52 PM
The "R" was for right hand threads since the early cars had lefts on one side too.

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JDP
Arnold Md.
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63 R2 4 speed GT Hawk (Black)
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