PDA

View Full Version : Borg Warner auto tranny in '55 President



RHO
11-28-2006, 06:33 PM
Tranny in my President will need new seals, filter cleaned, fluid, etc. Plan to take it down to a local reputable shop for this job. Can anyone give me an estimate of how much this auto transmission weighs? This is the transmission with fluid still in it.
Thanks

'55 Commander
'55 President

Roscomacaw
11-28-2006, 07:23 PM
Without the bell housing, the torque convertor or fliud, it weighs in at 134 lbs. A later Flight-o-matic weighs 129 lbs. in the same condition. Wear your supporter![xx(]

Miscreant adrift in
the BerStuda Triangle!!

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe

RHO
11-28-2006, 09:25 PM
OK, thanks... I have a transmission stand for the jack and two of us should be able to handle it.

'55 Commander
'55 President

Roscomacaw
11-29-2006, 02:17 AM
Ya know - if it were me, I'd do what service you've outlined, myself. Out of the car, the front and rear seals aren't that hard to change.
Drain the fluid (don't forget to drain the torque converter too!) before you take the tranny out - drop the pan and clean it and the filter - replace the pan gasket and put together again. Then pull the tranny out and replace the front and rear seals. Slide it back in and refill with Dexron III.
Of course, there's other gaskets and seals that COULD leak but if it's just the main seals that are causing drips.....[:I]

Miscreant adrift in
the BerStuda Triangle!!

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe

RHO
11-29-2006, 07:19 PM
The seals were the items I felt uncomfortable dealing with not knowing if any special tools are required to press fit them back in. I'll take another looksee. The tranny is now out of the car.

'55 Commander
'55 President

RHO
12-19-2006, 07:06 PM
Front seal not so bad; rear seal was just awful to remove taking over 2 hours of pulling, pounding, prying, chipping to get the thing off...three of us worked on it.

'55 Commander
'55 President

55studeman
12-19-2006, 07:34 PM
2 hours of pulling! Wow, that is excessive. Was it the original seal, i.e. did it have an outer seal made of felt followed by an inner seal of rubber? Otherwise, I couldn't imagine it taking that long. I pulled the rear seal on my DG250M this past summer using a seal puller, looks like a small pry bar with a hook on the end to grab the inner edge and then rock the tool to lever the seal out. Took a whole 20 seconds. Same with another DG250M rear seal I did about 6 years ago.

Installing of the new seal: be careful about using a sealant -you may or may not need it!! New seals (as in made in last few years) come with what looks like paint on the metal part, the outer rim, the area that gets pressed and holds it in. That paint IS SEALANT, do not add your own when installing. If you do, then you may end up with a leaking seal. When the seal is pressed in, that "paint" sealant squishes and seals the outer edge, you'll see it happen after pressing the seal.

If the seal is older and the metal part is plain metal, no "paint," then put a thin smear of ATF resistant sealant on the edge just prior to pressing it in.

Good luck.

E. West
"The Speedster Kid"
Sunny Northern California
Where the roads don't freeze over and the heat doesn't kill you.
And an open road is yours to have -only during non-commute rush hours 9am-4pm and 7pm to 7am (Ha, ha, ha)

RHO
12-19-2006, 08:52 PM
I believe this to be the original seal. Car sat in a field for many years with ~ 50k miles on it. The engine needed total rebuild. This was a two-seal type as you say but the replacement from SI is just one black colored seal for the back, more standard type seal for the front. We could not get my smallest gear puller set to work. These seals had metal rim and no paint.

'55 Commander
'55 President