Vendor question

[Guest]

Has anybody tried floor pans from Classic To Current Fabrication?
Their Lark pans are within my budget. I'm curious about fit...and would have one if they didn't. [V]

[bams50]

Some have complained about fit, and I haven't tried any yet personally; but here's CE pans in the 4dr. Skytop, installed by the PO. He was happy with them, and they look pretty good:





For those who haven't ever done this type of work: Understand that none of these panels "drop in". They require many hours of fitting, trimming, clamping, hammering, heating, and wrestling to get them fitted and welded. I think many times that's the basis for the dissatisfaction with these.

Good luck, Tom- and, how about PICTURES???[]

Robert (Bob) Andrews Owner- Studebakeracres- on the IoMT (Island of Misfit Toys!)
Parish, central NY 13131

"Some people live for the rules, I live for exceptions"- 311

"Do they all not, by mere virtue of having survived as relics of a bygone era, amass a level of respect perhaps not accorded to them when they were new?"

[52hawk]

I googled "classic to current" and all I came up with is an outfit that lists nothing for Studebaker.. How about a link?
BTW bams50 is talking about "Classic Enterprises" in Wisconsin-a known Stude' vendor.

Oglesby,Il.
Anybody that drives faster than me is a maniac.Anybody that drives slower than me is an idiot.

[2R5]

I put in their floor pans in an R series truck along with cab corners and also the running boards , they all worked out fine but as Bam says there is alway some fitting you have to do but its good that there is someone out there reproducing this stuff , thats for sure

[IMG]Home of the Fried Green Tomato
"IF YOU WANT THE SMILES YOU NEED TO DO THE MILES "

1960 Champ
1964 Daytona HT

[Guest]

Here's their site: http://c2cfabrication.com/index.html
Hmm, glad to hear their stuff is acceptable. Yes, I've used CE on three projects with good results. Thanks!

It's not the having, it's the getting.
Charles Spurgeon

[Kurt]

I used those pans in my 66 when I restored it 10+ years ago. I was very much a novice at the time. I felt that they fit very well and they are holding up very well. I would also assume that the pans have been improved since that time.

[Avantidon]

Classic's pieces are just like others I have used in restoration projects and need to be fitted a little but I have found that to be true with others on other makes of cars too. Personally I'm glad they make the pieces they do and they are easy to work with. Of course this is just my humble opinion

[sals54]

Bams, nice pix. But is that a black widow egg sac I see on the underside of the car???? Be careful. I've had many run-ins with those nasty little ladies. So far, I've always won.

sals54

[bams50]

No worries, Sal. That's all cleaned up and the car's all tucked away...

Maybe making more sacs[xx(] I know to flush 'em away first thing, along with the bees' nests[}]

Robert (Bob) Andrews Owner- Studebakeracres- on the IoMT (Island of Misfit Toys!)
Parish, central NY 13131

"Some people live for the rules, I live for exceptions"- 311

"Do they all not, by mere virtue of having survived as relics of a bygone era, amass a level of respect perhaps not accorded to them when they were new?"

[52-fan]

The CE pans appear to have the correct style stiffening ribs while the pans from Classic2Current look like they have generic ribs. Is this correct or are they using a generic picture to represent the product? I also do not see the indentation for the body mounting bolts. Anyone know how close they are? I am trying to decide which way to go on the Daytona.
Also is that price for both sides?


1952 Champion Starlight, 1962 Daytona, both w/overdrive.Searcy,Arkansas
"I may be lazy, but I'm not shiftless."

[bams50]

I didn't recognize the name, but those are the pans I bought off eBay for my 59 Lark. They're definitely more generic, but a lot cheaper. I haven't put them in yet, but they look good for a non-show car. Keep in mind the size- the CE pans go from front to rear, while the others end just before the front seat. My Lark only has a small hole on each side, so those panels were all I need.


The price shown is per side.

It will depend on how much floor you need to replace.

Robert (Bob) Andrews Owner- Studebakeracres- on the IoMT (Island of Misfit Toys!)
Parish, central NY 13131

"Some people live for the rules, I live for exceptions"- 311

"Do they all not, by mere virtue of having survived as relics of a bygone era, amass a level of respect perhaps not accorded to them when they were new?"

[bams50]

Another note on price- the guy I got the Skytop from told me he got everything from CE- both left and right floor pans, new braces and mounts, and complete new trunk floor. Price was a little over a grand- but that was 1989[:0] I don't recall how many hours he spent, but the braces, pans, and trunk are done. Still needs the NOS rockers and rear panel installed.

Robert (Bob) Andrews Owner- Studebakeracres- on the IoMT (Island of Misfit Toys!)
Parish, central NY 13131

"Some people live for the rules, I live for exceptions"- 311

"Do they all not, by mere virtue of having survived as relics of a bygone era, amass a level of respect perhaps not accorded to them when they were new?"

[52-fan]

My floors are not real bad. Most of the rust through is in the front corners near the body mounts. I think the car may have been parked nose down a lot with water sitting near the corners.
A member who has access to a sheet metal shop has offered to roll generic type ribs in flat metal for me if I want to go that route. Any suggestions on replacing the dished area where the body mounts to the frame?


1952 Champion Starlight, 1962 Daytona, both w/overdrive.Searcy,Arkansas
"I may be lazy, but I'm not shiftless."

[bams50]

Well; it will mostly depend on the quality level YOU need to be comfortable. How far are you going with the car? Beater? Show car? or where in between?

When I got my Lark wagon I thought the floors were better than they turned out to be, because it was a CA car. Once they were clean, they weren't bad, but had fairly sizable holes on each side. Since it's presently just a driver, I made up some basic patches. I cut out all the rust and welded them in, coated with POR-15, and undercoated from the bottom. Here's a couple pics:





These sealed up the car and preserve it, and they're under the carpet. If I, or someone in the future, wants to make a show car, they can always cut 'em out and put in better metal with the ribs recreated. One of the main functions of the ribs is stiffening to avoid oil-canning. These were small enough that it wasn't an issue. Again, it's all how far you want to take the car.



Robert (Bob) Andrews Owner- Studebakeracres- on the IoMT (Island of Misfit Toys!)
Parish, central NY 13131

"Some people live for the rules, I live for exceptions"- 311

"Do they all not, by mere virtue of having survived as relics of a bygone era, amass a level of respect perhaps not accorded to them when they were new?"

[4961Studebaker]

I bought these two years ago from classic. I felt they were some nice pans. I see on their site they carry the rear passenger pieces, I don't recall seeing those back when I ordered, I just patch paneled those areas. These are the full length panels, thatdo nothave the sliding nuts for the seat bolts that came from factory.






ChopStu