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John and Tracy Smith
12-18-2008, 07:10 PM
...Hopefully, we won't break that rule! As promised, we have a lot of questions as we get started working on the new Lark. Most of these are probably very basic, but you guys are our best resource, so we are coming to you! Thanks in advance!

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f352/studebakertruck/IMG_5575.jpg
First questions: We are guessing that this is a 6-volt system (please correct us if we are wrong). In turn, does it require a certain type of battery? Is it something we can just pick up at our local Checker/Napa/auto parts store? Also, what color are the valve covers supposed to be? (John's really concerned about this last question. He has seen many that are yellow and was wondering whether that was "correct.")

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f352/studebakertruck/IMG_5573.jpg
Next questions: What do these numbers mean? Is it important for us to know? :)


http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f352/studebakertruck/IMG_5572.jpg
Next questions: It is apparent to us that this engine has been rebuilt, but what is a Power-Pak? Does this mean that this is not an original motor?

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f352/studebakertruck/IMG_5574.jpg
Final questions (for now): Here is yet another information/number tag. Does this tag give us necessary information? Is it supposed to be there? Is there a photo reference we could be comparing all of this to, whether "correct" or not?

John and Tracy Smith
Queen Creek Arizona
http://1955studebaker.blogspot.com/
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f352/studebakertruck/IMG_3130.jpg http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f352/studebakertruck/IMG_3159.jpg

Gary1953
12-18-2008, 07:13 PM
John,
I can answer the 6 volt question. All Larks were 12 volt.

http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l269/gsandes50/Picture008.jpg
Gary Sanders
Nixa, MO
President Toy Studebaker Collectors Club. Have an interest in Toy Studebakers? Contact me for details.

N8N
12-18-2008, 07:15 PM
OK... you have a 12V, negative ground system, unless things are really screwed up. I want to say the battery is a Group 24R, but don't quote me on that - wait for someone who knows. (I should really put that info on my web site; I know the standard 6V battery is a group 1 and the narrow Avanti battery is a something-EE) I can't quite read the number on the engine tag, but you may want to post it here, someone with the reference material may be able to identify it if it was actually Studebaker provided as opposed to rebuilt by a local shop. I don't know what the tag is on the "lip" on the radiator; it should have a "CAUTION FAN" decal there.

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

41 Frank
12-18-2008, 07:22 PM
Valve covers are black in 1960 and engine block silver color.Change to yellow valve covers took place in 1962.

lstude
12-18-2008, 07:23 PM
All Studebaker from 56 on were 12 volt.

The body tag means:

60V means 1960 V8

"F" means 2dr. sedan

"4" mean Deluxe trim

2454 is the sequence of the body number.

I am not sure about the the rebuilt tag. Power pack usually means 4 bbl. carb, but the rebuilder may have another meaning.

I have never seen the numbers on the little fan shroud. Usually there is a decal that says "CAUTION-FAN"

Leonard Shepherd
http://leonardshepherd.com/

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q8/LHSJR/MyStudebakernobackgroundsm.jpg

John and Tracy Smith
12-18-2008, 07:30 PM
The tag on the block reads...stock number ST104

John and Tracy Smith
Queen Creek Arizona
http://1955studebaker.blogspot.com/
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f352/studebakertruck/IMG_3130.jpg http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f352/studebakertruck/IMG_3159.jpg

Steve T
12-18-2008, 07:37 PM
The cowl tag just identifies the precise variant of Stude and what body number (as distinct from vehicle serial) this is...

60 = model year
V = V8
F = F-body (2dr post)
4 = Deluxe
2454 = bodyshell #

On the body directly ahead of the driver's door will be the serial tag, which should read 60V-***** (probably five digits...my 62 has four, but it is a Hamilton car and there were fewer of those). That number will enable you to source the car's build sheet from SNM, which is a neat thing to have, as it ties down the earliest details of your Stude's history.

(Course you may already know all that stuff from owning the truck! Sorry if it's superfluous...)

Saw the pic of the generator, and started having nasty conked-out-blue-2dr-Lark-by-the-roadside flashbacks!:D Somewhere on the fenderwells/skirts, connected to the generator, will be the voltage regulator. Make sure it is allowing the right amount of "juice" through steadily...neither too little nor too much. I lost huge chunks of my first Studebaker season because that item on my Lark was...well...evil! Replaced it mid-summer, no significant issues thereafter.

I'm really keen to watch how this project of yours comes along. The car reminds me so much of mine...but yours won't have to slumber the winter away in a barn, since you don't observe winter in AZ!

Cheers

Steve T
(about to get clobbered by tonight's snowstorm)

Roscomacaw
12-18-2008, 07:38 PM
That tag on the block is just from an independent engine rebuilder. Power-pack was probably just some jazzy thing that sounds better than "rebuilt engine".

The tag on the radiator flange is another rebuilder tag. It, like that tag on the engine, is just the rebuilder's way of tracking their work should any warranty questions come up.

Stude's last 6volt vehicles were in 1955;)

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1963 Cruiser
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President two door

rockfoot
12-18-2008, 08:15 PM
I seem to remember my dad talking about Power Pak Engines. Not sure but was under the impression that it was a complete engine supplied by Studebaker. That is, not a short block but heads, oil pan and valve covers...complete except for the intake and carburetor.[8)]IIRC[8]Maybe even the carb and manifold:)

1955 President one owner
Moncks Corner, SC
http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh279/rbarrett/P1000631.jpghttp://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh279/rbarrett/259Studebaker.jpg

Dick Steinkamp
12-18-2008, 08:34 PM
quote:Originally posted by rockfoot

I seem to remember my dad talking about Power Pak Engines.


Power Pak was a 50's Chevrolet term for 4 barrel and dual exhausts. Did Studebaker ever officially use this term also?

Dick Steinkamp
Bellingham, WA

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s66/ddstnkmp/Stude-a-mino%20old%20pics/oldpics6asmall.jpg http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s66/ddstnkmp/finished044.jpg

barnlark
12-18-2008, 08:44 PM
I second everything except the "caution fan" on the fan guard. 1959-1960 Larks did not have those decals yet. They were just painted satin black, as were all the components surrounding the silver block. I have no idea what that little tag is on the fan guard, but it was added for more information probably. Looks like whomever worked on it originally liked to tag/document things. My 1960 came with that 4 barrel, dual exhaust option, but it was called a Power Kit. [^]

http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh48/newshooter44/DSCN0015.jpg

http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh48/newshooter44/DSCN1253_2.jpg

BobPalma
12-18-2008, 09:19 PM
quote:Originally posted by Dick Steinkamp

Power Pak was a 50's Chevrolet term for 4 barrel and dual exhausts. Did Studebaker ever officially use this term also?

Dick Steinkamp


:) Dick: Studebaker's official term was Power Kit... as discussed on Page 62 of the February 2009 Collectible Automobile. (Sorry; I couldn't resist that.;))

Regarding the tag in question on the front of the engine; Biggs has properly identified that. The tag and its contents have nothing to do with Studebaker-Packard Corporation original production.

ST is probably the rebuilder's abbreviation for Studebaker. The 104 is probably some internal code the rebuilder assigned to identify the date rebuilt or stock number or how much the mains and rods were turned or how much the cylinders were bored or some combination of any or all the above or any other of several things known only to them!

The car takes a Group 24 battery. 24F is Ford and has the terminal positions reversed. It is mandatory that a proper battery hold-down be used to avoid the scorn of the notoriously-obnoxious Hold-Down Policeman (a/k/a Turning Wheels Technical Editor) who frequently checks in here to monitor such usage.[:0];) :DBP

Flashback
12-18-2008, 09:19 PM
The only time I have ever seen "power pack"
mentioned on a Studebaker was 55, and it
was as Dick mentioned on the Chevys. 4 bbl.
dual exhaust. I have one. I read it in a ad
on 55 Studes. The tag however, in my opinion,
has nothing to do with factory Stude. Info.
As someone said, the rebuilders hype. Years ago
Sears marketed a rebuilt engine line called
"Mustang". Anyone out there remember seeing a
flathead Ford, mustang rebuilt engine?

Tex E. Grier
http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn320/Flashback53/Studebaker255.jpg

Dick Steinkamp
12-18-2008, 09:33 PM
quote:Originally posted by BobPalma


:) Dick: Studebaker's official term was Power Kit... as discussed on Page 62 of the February 2009 Collectible Automobile. (Sorry; I couldn't resist that.;))




Ouch! You would think I would have that article memorized by now. [^]

Dick Steinkamp
Bellingham, WA

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s66/ddstnkmp/Stude-a-mino%20old%20pics/oldpics6asmall.jpg http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s66/ddstnkmp/finished044.jpg

sals54
12-18-2008, 11:17 PM
I thought power pack also referred to Mustangs. One of the websites for the ponies still refers to some of the Mustangs that way.

sals54
http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm197/sals54/NewSignature.jpg

Dwain G.
12-19-2008, 01:01 AM
I used to work with a mechanic that moonlighted for a rebuilder in California doing VW engines while he was in the Air Force down there. The Power-Pak name sounds familiar![?]

[IMG]http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff195/DwainG/champdoug.jpg[img]
Dwain G.

StudeRich
12-19-2008, 01:12 AM
The urban legend that Rockfoot heard could apply to GM & Ford Engines, many of them had "Power Packs" and the Chevy. even had Power Pack Heads! [:0]
It basically meant a 4 Barrel Carb. and sometimes Dual Exhaust.

In Studeland as has been said, there was ONLY a Power Kit: 4 barrel Carb, a matching Intake Manifold and a Dual Exhaust System, that's IT, no more. Normally Stude. did not Market Complete ready to run Engines with Carbs. at all.

In John & Tracy's case it is nothing more than a Engine Rebuilder's name or one of their lines of rebuilt engines.

John and Tracy; I am going to tell you a very important piece of advice here, that fuel pump is a real original Studebaker OEM CARTER fuel pump, it could be original, and certainly IS somewhat old because it's been a while since a NEW Carter pump has been available. [:0]

That is definitely not to say it's a piece of junk to be discarded! Quite the opposite, do NOT let that out of your sight! If it should fail which is quite possible for it's 48 yr. age, rebuild kits are available (I and other Studebaker Vendors have them) and it will be one of the most dependable parts of the whole car, they commonly last 20 years plus.

If you do nothing else but replace it, with the easily found and replaced Airtex (poor,leaky) replacement (the only new one still available), by all means...SAVE IT! You could rebuild it later. [^]

The battery you need as Bob Palma said, is a Group 24 (12V) however, be sure you look for the smaller (-) Negative Post that is forward when the Battery is Installed so that the posts are toward the Engine, do not buy any battery that "replaces" a 24 with the Posts centered on the width of the case, those are generic one size fits all type to be avoided, as on the Ford Battery, the Posts and Cables could short on the Hood and correct cables do not reach! :(

You can get a good one at your Kragen Auto Parts store, the ones with an "Autolite" Orange & Black label for well under $100.00 ($60-85) or a Grp. 24 at Interstate Battery, for over that. It's important to note that the required BATTERY HOLD DOWN actually fits these Brands of Battery without cluttered tops with "built in " handles etc. [^]

StudeRich at Studebakers Northwest -Ferndale,WA

sals54
12-19-2008, 01:20 AM
But Studebaker also offered "Power Packs" as in Jet Thrust and Jet Thrust Supercharged, didn't they??? Thats a heck of a wallop in the power department, eh? And that doesn't even mention the R3 or R4 package.

sals54
http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm197/sals54/NewSignature.jpg

bridgegaurd
12-19-2008, 03:59 AM
quote:Originally posted by John and Tracy Smith

...Hopefully, we won't break that rule! As promised, we have a lot of questions as we get started working on the new Lark. Most of these are probably very basic, but you guys are our best resource, so we are coming to you! Thanks in advance!

Battery is readily available group 24 buy a good one, take the old one with you and make sure they match exactly. No i got one that fits crap. Same with the cables get good ready mades the correct size and length.

Generator is piece of cake you can have it rebuilt by the shop in Tucson on grant or prince he might even have one in stock. regulator get a good one from NAPA. My only advice is swap the distribiter out for an electronic one. (available from a vendor in TW) points suck big time. A new set of plugs, wires, change the fuel filter, oil filter, and start that puppy up. There's a carb rebuild shop over on the south side that can do rebuild. Soons as i remember the name i'll e-mail ya. Do not pour gas directly in the carb venturis. Fill the float bowl via the tube and let any spills eveaporate before cranking.

Worry about paint etc. after you get the lil bird running, no use painting till you know the engine is good. Start and shut it off a few times before doing any revving.

studeski
12-19-2008, 04:41 AM
Darn near everybody used the term "power pack". In this case Power-Pack is/was an engine rebuilder

Claude Chmielewski
Studeski
http://www.studeski.com
Fillmore, Wisconsin
47 M-16 Truck
62 GT Hawk
63 Lark
64 Commander Wagonaire
50 Champion Regal (parts car)
63 GT Hawk R2
[img=left]http://www.studeski.com/62hawk/62hawka/dakota01_250.jpg[/img=left]

studeski
12-19-2008, 04:49 AM
quote:Originally posted by studeski

Darn near everybody used the term "power pack". In this case Power-Pack is/was an engine rebuilder

Claude Chmielewski
Studeski
http://www.studeski.com
Fillmore, Wisconsin
47 M-16 Truck
62 GT Hawk
63 Lark
64 Commander Wagonaire
50 Champion Regal (parts car)
63 GT Hawk R2
[img=left]http://www.studeski.com/62hawk/62hawka/dakota01_250.jpg[/img=left]




Whoops! I meant Power-Pak is/was an engine rebuilder.



Claude Chmielewski
Studeski
http://www.studeski.com
Fillmore, Wisconsin
47 M-16 Truck
62 GT Hawk
63 Lark
64 Commander Wagonaire
50 Champion Regal (parts car)
63 GT Hawk R2
[img=left]http://www.studeski.com/62hawk/62hawka/dakota01_250.jpg[/img=left]

John and Tracy Smith
12-19-2008, 10:45 AM
Now that someone has brought up actually trying to start the car, we have a few questions about that, too.

First of all, is there a precautionary step we should take prior to turning the motor over to help make sure we don't cause any extra problems? We have read on here about people soaking or lubing a frozen motor prior to attempting to turn it over, but we don't know for sure whether ours is frozen or not. Is there something we should do to prepare it whether it is frozen or not?

Next, we have no ignition or keys for the car. It appears that some vendors offer a new ignition and keys for around $125 (that is, if we are reading it right), but is there a less expensive alternative that we can use at this point while we try to figure out whether we can even get it started?

Thanks for all the input we have received so far!

John and Tracy Smith
Queen Creek Arizona
http://1955studebaker.blogspot.com/
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f352/studebakertruck/IMG_3130.jpg http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f352/studebakertruck/IMG_3159.jpg

N8N
12-19-2008, 11:14 AM
I would do the following:

- change the oil in the car
- pull the distributor, and with a long screwdriver shank chucked in an electric drill, spin the oil pump up to build pressure in the engine (this will also show you if, say, the oil gauge hose has cracked from age)
- Try to turn the engine over with a breaker bar on the crank bolt
- if it turns over, put new points and condenser in the dist. reinstall and try to start engine
- if it does not, pull the valve covers and rocker shaft assemblies and try again
- if it now turns over, pour some oil over the valves and tap on the stem of each valve with a brass hammer to free up any stuck valves
- reinstall rocker shafts and go to points, condenser, etc.
- if the engine does not turn over with the rocker shafts removed, then you have a stuck piston or pistons. Pull all the spark plugs and pour the penetrant of your choice in each hole (carb cleaner, kerosene, ATF, Kroil, whatever) keep trying to turn over with breaker bar and/or starter until it spins free

do you not have the ignition switch at all or are you just missing keys? If the latter, just remove the switch and take it to a locksmith. If the former, you can hotwire the car, just take a test lead and connect the + side of the battery to the + terminal of the coil, take another test lead and connect one end to the + side of the battery, to engage the starter touch it to the "S" terminal on the starter solenoid. Remove both leads if you are not trying to actively start the car as you will have no ballast resistor in the circuit and can burn up your points and/or coil.

good luck

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

62champ
12-19-2008, 11:21 AM
There are a few ways to see if the motor is free. One of the easiest is to simply put some pressure on the fan belt and pull on it to see if the motor will move (you can always do this with the plugs out so you are not fighting compression). If you get nothing there, some like to put a socket on the bolt that holds the bottom pulley on and then a breaker bar/ratchet. If the car is standard, pull out the overdrive handle, put it in 3rd gear and rock the car back and forth. Hopefully any one of those will cause the motor to turn over and you can move on from there.

Most important thing before you start the car is to make sure there is plenty of lubricant in the system. Drain out the "old oil" and replace with fresh stuff. You can prime the whole system with the motor not started. If you remove the distributor (mark its location), you can put a long rod down into the top of the oil pump and turn it with an electric drill. I think my dad used to use an old radio antenna to do this. By turning the pump you will send oil through the whole system.

Keep up with the questions. I always tell my students there are not stupid questions, only people who refuse to ask because they think they already know it all...

In my sig you can see my 1960 W4. It has 51,000 original miles, so if there is any question I can answer about specific 1960 stuff, ask. This site is a gold mine of knowledge and experience.



<div align="left">1960 Lark VI</div id="left"> <div align="right">1962 7E7-122</div id="right">
[img=left]http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l163/62champ/car/8b0ac4c6.jpg[/img=left]
[img=right]http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l163/62champ/car/DSC02237.jpg[/img=right]

Bob Langer
12-19-2008, 11:44 AM
On page 51 of the 1961 dealer fact book for the optional four-barrel carburetor. Quote " A four-barrel carburetor Power Pack can be supplied with Lark and Hawk V-8 engines". This is also mentioned on pages 46 and 47 in the descriptions of the 259 and 289 engines.There is no mention of dual exhaust other than being standard on the Hawk. To quote again from page 47 " Dual carburetor and dual exhausts are standard with the 289-V8".

Bob Langer
Glenshaw,PA

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff143/regnalbob/cropped-1.jpg

4961Studebaker
12-19-2008, 02:46 PM
goodness, it looks like they have no ignition switch at all, judging from past pictures.
think the guy's have helped pretty well in preping you to start from there.

Forum tell me if the 61 lark bezel and ignition switch should/could work, I'll dontate it, and key's. I think it would work it would just be the bezel correctness or fitment in hole in dash.
http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q14/kkad0711/61larkignitionswitch2.jpg
http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q14/kkad0711/61larkignitionswitch.jpg
http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q14/kkad0711/61larkignitionswitch3.jpg
ChopStu
http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q14/kkad0711/IMG_5406-1.jpg

Swifster
12-19-2008, 03:22 PM
quote:Originally posted by John and Tracy Smith

Remember, there are no stupid questions

I'm sorry, but I've been seeing this since the initial post and I keep giggling like a little school girl. I'm a BIG fan of South Park, and I usually watch at least two episodes a week. My cheap sense of humor just loves gratuitous potty humor and the fact that they attack every stereotype under the sun.

The show revolves around four fourth graders (animated). Mr Garrison (or Mrs Garrison after the sex change) likes to comment that...

"Remember class, there are no stupid questions. Just stupid people who ask questions."

This is not directed at anyone, but I just had to share. Every time I see this thread, I can't help but think of the S/P quote. And then I laugh and giggle.

OK, play time is over. You can all go back to your regularly scheduled Studebaker discussion.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Tom - Mulberry, FL

1964 Studebaker Daytona - 289 4V, 4-Speed (Cost To Date: $2125.60)

http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i280/Swifster/rollingpi.gif http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i280/Swifster/The%20Daytona%20File/Avatar%20Size/01-01-05TheStartingPoint.jpg http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i280/Swifster/The%20Daytona%20File/Avatar%20Size/07-17-07FrontClipRemoved.jpg http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i280/Swifster/The%20Daytona%20File/Avatar%20Size/04-11-08CoolingFan.jpg

tbredehoft
12-19-2008, 03:28 PM
Nate's comment about priming the oil is good, but needs a bit of explanation. Before you remove the distributor, take the cap off and note the position of the rotor. remove the clamp holding the distributor to the engine and very slowly lift the distributor straight up, WATCHING THE ROTOR WHILE YOU LIFT. It will turn, (I think) counter clockwise. Note the position of the rotor when it stops turning, this is the exact position it has to be in when you put it back. (as it enters the engine, it will rotate back into its original position.) Unless you have hours and hours of engine work behind you, or a masters in engine logic, this will defeat you if you don't put it back right. [edit] also note the position of the slot in the bottom as noted by the mark you filed on the top of the threader rod (see below). Return the slot to this position after priming the system, else the distributor won't go into the pump. (No one said this was childs play.)

Having removed the distributor, examine the bottom closely, see how it looks like the end of a straight screw driver? purchase a piece of 3/8 in threaded rod, at least 14 inches long, not much longer, and make one end look like the distributor shaft. This diameter will assure that the shaft goes in the right place.

With the threaded rod prepared,put it in the distributor hole, making sure it goes in the 3/8 inch hole about 6 inches down. It will go almost all the way down the hole. NOW, chuck the end in a 3/8 REVERSIBLE electric drill, and with it in reverse, turn it on. Remember, you have drained out the old oil, and filled the crankcase with new oil, but it may not have filled the oil pump.

When you start the drill be prepared for it to go from no load to a pretty good load as soon as the pump fills with oil and it will jump in your hand.

Have someone inside watching for oil pressure on the gage, and you keep your eye on the flexible oil line from the head to the firewall. If it hasn't been replaced, it might not be flexible any more and you will pump oil all over everywhere.

If no leaks occur and the gage gets pressure, run it for 20 or 30 seconds, just to make sure oil goes everywhere inside. This prime should be good for a couple of weeks, so if you don't start it up right away, you don't have to do it again.

Sorry this is so long, but it could save you an engine rebuild if your engine hasn't been run in years.

[img=left]http://www.alink.com/personal/tbredehoft/Avatar1.jpg[/img=left]
Tom Bredehoft
'53 Commander Coupe (since 1959)
'55 President (6H Y6) State Sedan
(Under Construction 564 hrs.)
'05 Legacy Ltd Wagon
All Indiana built cars

StudeRich
12-19-2008, 03:30 PM
STU, (Kevin) that's good of you to offer that to John & Tracy, there is absolutely NO difference in these switches, bezels etc. from 1960 to 1966 they are the same. A 1961 will work fine! [^]

They can buy some Studebaker keys from a Studebaker Vendor for $6.00 a pair, and have some dups. cut from your aftermarket key.

Remember Tom '60 Larks do not have flex hoses and Oil Pressure Gauges! Only a idiot light! However on this car I seem to remember a gauge of some kind under the dash, which MAY in fact BE an Oil Press. Gauge, if it works and is connected it could have plastic tubing all the way to the right cylinder head if it is the standard aftermarket type.

I guess I should have opened another tab on my Firefox browser and searched for the post with the pics, huh? However I don't remember the engine shot being good enough to tell what is going on with that.:(

Edit, added: here is the Lark has Landed Post: http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=24689

tbredehoft
12-19-2008, 04:26 PM
Good call on the flex line, Rich, I'm so wrapped up in my '55 I never even thought of that. I did swap a 60 Lark (with the idiot lights) for the 55, too. Well, not a direct swap, but it worked out that way. My wife said "You sold that nice Lark for that POS?" (my words, not hers) She's not ridden in a Land Cruiser, yet.

{Edit] yes, there could well be a plastic line from the right bank oil gallery.


[img=left]http://www.alink.com/personal/tbredehoft/Avatar1.jpg[/img=left]
Tom Bredehoft
'53 Commander Coupe (since 1959)
'55 President (6H Y6) State Sedan
(Under Construction 564 hrs.)
'05 Legacy Ltd Wagon
All Indiana built cars

Roscomacaw
12-19-2008, 04:42 PM
yeah, I might mention that when I brought this '63 Cruiser back to life after decades of non-running, I did consider the oil pressure hose before the first start attempt. I'm glad I did. I had a replacement on hand and when I went to slip a line wrench over the old hose, it snapped like a pretzel![xx(]

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1963 Cruiser
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President two door

John and Tracy Smith
12-19-2008, 05:05 PM
62champ posted, "There are a few ways to see if the motor is free. One of the easiest is to simply put some pressure on the fan belt and pull on it to see if the motor will move."

Well, we did just as suggested and it turns without any problems!

It does appear to have a oil leak of sorts, so tommarow we will be looking under the car to see if we can determine the location/cause of that. Funny though, it didn't leak all the way home until it sat in front of our house. (Or until Tracy decided to climb around the interior in search of treasure. Oil started to leak within minutes after that...)

Kevin we would love to take you up on the offer for the ignition switch but you are you sure you want to donate it , we would be happy to compinsate you for it . Please contact us via email so we can work this out.

John and Tracy Smith
Queen Creek Arizona
http://1955studebaker.blogspot.com/
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f352/studebakertruck/IMG_3130.jpg http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f352/studebakertruck/IMG_3159.jpg

63larkcustom
12-19-2008, 05:42 PM
The leak comment reminded me of something that was once said on the forum.... Studeys are like wayward puppies and kittens, they know who to follow home, require a lot of attention and tend to have a lot of unintentional leaks. :-) I know..I'm on number 5.

N8N
12-19-2008, 06:18 PM
quote:Originally posted by John and Tracy Smith


It does appear to have a oil leak of sorts, so tommarow we will be looking under the car to see if we can determine the location/cause of that.


I would posit that it is leaking because there is oil in the crankcase :) (seriously, it's *HARD* to de-leakify a Stude.)

A *bad* leak would be the little rubber hose to the oil pressure gauge, and that's a fairly common one as well. Most likely culprits are the front and rear main seals, especially the front.

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

John and Tracy Smith
12-19-2008, 07:20 PM
If it helps explain it, the oil initially game out in a big "blurp" (highly technical term, we know!)and the car has had what we would consider to be a "normal" amount of oil leakage since. We do know the saying that if your Studebaker stops leaking, then you're out of oil...we checked, and we still have oil. :) Looks like we're going to find out more tomorrow when we get in there a little closer.

John and Tracy Smith
Queen Creek Arizona
http://1955studebaker.blogspot.com/
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f352/studebakertruck/IMG_3130.jpg http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f352/studebakertruck/IMG_3159.jpg

allstateguy
12-19-2008, 07:27 PM
You can ask me lots of mechanical questions when I bring your floorpan over in the morning. I think I'll be there a little after 10am.

Reviving an early Lark
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q246/allstateguy/100_0683-1.jpg

Dick Steinkamp
12-19-2008, 07:32 PM
quote:Originally posted by John and Tracy Smith

It does appear to have a oil leak of sorts


No way!! [:0]


[:o)] ;)

Dick Steinkamp
Bellingham, WA

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s66/ddstnkmp/Stude-a-mino%20old%20pics/oldpics6asmall.jpg http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s66/ddstnkmp/finished044.jpg

barnlark
12-19-2008, 10:02 PM
[quote]Originally posted by Bob Langer

On page 51 of the 1961 dealer fact book for the optional four-barrel carburetor. Quote " A four-barrel carburetor Power Pack can be supplied with Lark and Hawk V-8 engines". This is also mentioned on pages 46 and 47 in the descriptions of the 259 and 289 engines.There is no mention of dual exhaust other than being standard on the Hawk. To quote again from page 47 " Dual carburetor and dual exhausts are standard with the 289-V8".


Bob, since we're talking about John and Tracy's 1960 Lark here, you made me check my 1960 dealer parts and accessories price list book (I love this book, March 1960) and my accessory catalog. :D

My very old, original production order states Power Kit-four barrel-dual exhaust.
My accessory catalog states- "Power Kit: "High Power" Four-Barrel Carburetor gives lightning fast acceleration for any passing emergencies. Dual exhaust relieves engine back pressure and gives longer, smoother and more economical performance."

Concerning a previous thread on early Lark trunk colors, I also pulled out my 12/59 and 11/59 Studebaker News magazines and looked at the factory pictures of cars with their trunks open. There was a black Lark with the deck lid up with the black painted to the rubber seal. On the inside of the seal, the rest of the lid appeared to be that grey color. The car next to it looked to be colonial red. The deck lid appeared to be completely red. Was the trunk painted only if it was a Regal car, or if you paid more for it? Not sure..anybody from factory days know? My trunk was never grey, it was the same as the body color. '60 convertibles were all Regals.

As we have found; parts books, manuals, brochures, etc., have words and pictures that should not always be taken as gospel. The people writing them had different jobs to accomplish if they were in advertising, but as has been often discussed, they weren't perfect..and left mistakes in print until the end. But, factory pictures of cars going out to dealers seem to be a good witness of what happened. If your car came with a grey trunk, it was correct, John & Tracy. Have you posted your engine number yet, to see what the "Power-Pak" tag signified as to which engine was rebuilt? It's on the flat area to the right of your oil filler tube on the driver's side in front of the intake manifold.You won't know if it's the original engine for sure without a production order build sheet, but we can tell about when it was originally built. Hope this helped a little.




http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh48/newshooter44/DSCN1253_2.jpg

John and Tracy Smith
12-20-2008, 12:04 AM
Okay, we found two sets of numbers, pictured below. One set was located directly under the oil filter and the other was located to the right of it. Also, our trunk is the same color blue as the rest of the car, so we're not really sure what that means. In any case, we're outside in the garage with a flashlight at 10:02 PM looking for numbers and enjoying every minute of it! :)

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f352/studebakertruck/IMG_5583.jpg

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f352/studebakertruck/IMG_5579.jpg

John and Tracy Smith
Queen Creek Arizona
http://1955studebaker.blogspot.com/
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f352/studebakertruck/IMG_3130.jpg http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f352/studebakertruck/IMG_3159.jpg

N8N
12-20-2008, 12:12 AM
Tom, re: putting the dist. back in, I usually just set it in in the right position and then bump the engine over with a remote starter switch while lightly pressing down on it with my hand. Usually works like a champ. Now getting the shaft to drop in just so when first setting it in... that sometimes takes a while.

John/Tracy - the "V" in the engine number means it's a 259 if you didn't know that already.

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

PlainBrownR2
12-20-2008, 12:26 AM
Yeah the second engine photo, the one with the stamped V number on that flat machined pad, that's the number you would ordinarily pay attention to. That number tells you if it's a 259, 289, R1, R2 engine, etc. That number will also give you the date the engine was produced. It's not part of the topic but for me the stamping separates the JTS 1612(1963 engine), from the JTS J330(1964 engine) despite looking identical in nature.

[img=left]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/My%201950%202r5%20Studebaker%20Pickup%20with%20turbocharger/P1000137-1.jpg[/img=left][img=left]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/My%201950%202r5%20Studebaker%20Pickup%20with%20turbocharger/P1000145-1.jpg[/img=left][IMG=right]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/Ex%20Studebaker%20Plant%20Locomotive/P1000578-1.jpg[/IMG=right]
[IMG=right]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/My%201964%20Studebaker%20Commander%20R2/P1010168.jpg[/IMG=right]

barnlark
12-20-2008, 12:44 AM
John and Tracy, yea, you found it. My 60 Lark was made in very late fall, 1959, and my engine number is V473991, also a 259. That should tell you that your engine was made before mine in the fall of '59. You probably have the original, or at least a period/year correct rebuild. I'll quickly be corrected if I'm wrong, but your engine was the 17,414th made for the 1960 model year. Also, your car appears to have the original paint on the floors and in the trunk..and is a Deluxe trim model. So, that blows my Regal vs Deluxe theory and since it's an early built Lark in late 1959 (if the body matches the engine) I'm now wondering if they just painted those if the owner specified it, paid extra, or both?

bridgegaurd
12-20-2008, 02:58 AM
quote:Originally posted by John and Tracy Smith

...Hopefully, we won't break that rule! As promised, we have a lot of questions as we get started working on the new Lark. Most of these are probably very basic, but you guys are our best resource, so we are coming to you! Thanks in advance!

The tag on the readiator is indeed from a radiator repair shop. very unusual for it to be there it is usualy soldered to the flat surface on the top or bottom tank. It identifies the rebuilder (or of a replacement) what the radiator is made up of. core,size etc. Probably not worth much by now BUT YA never know, some old dude radiator shop may still have an ID book. Old dudes hang onto that kind of stuff.

bridgegaurd
12-20-2008, 03:17 AM
quote:Originally posted by barnlark
I can help you settle all this next spring, a punched out 454 with a Peelstick turbo 400 and a ford nine inch will take care of all your woes.

Drooped spindles, and trick springs, a Prostock hood scoop,street racer roll bar and a little bit custom touch here or there, some cheater slicks, and it's Van Buren time baby.

Nothing brings a frown to da boys faces when they get curbed by an off brand. And it's double burble when it's done when a short's the driver.

Bill Pressler
12-20-2008, 06:50 AM
John and Tracy,

Besides the production order you can get for a '60 Lark at the SNM for $35, they also have cards that will show who the first purchaser of your Lark was and their street and city address (first name seems often to be only an initial, however). I find the availability of info like this very interesting. Also, they have cards that show you the name, address, and principals of the dealership your car would have been sent to. In my experience, the 1960-style retail sale card, and dealer cards, can be obtained for a total of $25 plus .25 each page for photocopies (usually not more than two or three).

FYI.

Bill Pressler
Kent, OH
'63 Lark Daytona Skytop R1

barnlark
12-20-2008, 09:04 AM
Originally posted by bridgegaurd
"I can help you settle all this next spring, a punched out 454 with a Peelstick turbo..."
"Nothing brings a frown to da boys faces when they get curbed by an off brand."

Guess that means a smile. Didn't know Chevy was an off brand now. ;)

John and Tracy Smith
12-20-2008, 11:17 AM
Well, we must say that Tracy is pretty much a pure stock kind of gal. Since this one's her baby, John's only free labor and all decisions get signed off by her (no modifications on this one, with the exception of maybe some leopard print seat covers...just joking...I think...)

John and Tracy Smith
Queen Creek Arizona
http://1955studebaker.blogspot.com/
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f352/studebakertruck/IMG_3130.jpg http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f352/studebakertruck/IMG_3159.jpg

barnlark
12-20-2008, 11:27 AM
:D[^] Sigh of relief..

bridgegaurd
12-20-2008, 09:32 PM
quote:Originally posted by barnlark

Originally posted by bridgegaurd
"I can help you settle all this next spring, a punched out 454 with a Peelstick turbo..."
"Nothing brings a frown to da boys faces when they get curbed by an off brand."

Guess that means a smile. Didn't know Chevy was an off brand now. ;)

Nah dat means a Stude or a rambler like car kickin chebby or roadclunker butt. I see that Tracy thinks it should be stock I may have to do one of those TV intervention/stolen car things and bring her over for a kodak moment with her new street burner.

52hawk
12-20-2008, 09:44 PM
quote:Originally posted by Bill Pressler

John and Tracy,

Besides the production order you can get for a '60 Lark at the SNM for $35, they also have cards that will show who the first purchaser of your Lark was and their street and city address (first name seems often to be only an initial, however). I find the availability of info like this very interesting. Also, they have cards that show you the name, address, and principals of the dealership your car would have been sent to. In my experience, the 1960-style retail sale card, and dealer cards, can be obtained for a total of $25 plus .25 each page for photocopies (usually not more than two or three).

FYI.

Bill Pressler
Kent, OH
'63 Lark Daytona Skytop R1


Bill,I just took a look at the museum website,it still shows the prod orders for $25--have they increased the price? [still worth it,in my opinion] On these cards of additional information about the original sale of the car,where do I find that info?

Oglesby,Il. http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j273/52hawk/100_0824-1-2.jpg
Anybody that drives faster than me is a maniac.Anybody that drives slower than me is an idiot.

John and Tracy Smith
12-20-2008, 10:05 PM
Bridgegaurd...FOOSE your ride, not mine! :) XOXOXOXO, Tracy [:X]

John and Tracy Smith
Queen Creek Arizona
http://1955studebaker.blogspot.com/
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f352/studebakertruck/IMG_3130.jpg http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f352/studebakertruck/IMG_3159.jpg

John and Tracy Smith
12-21-2008, 01:22 AM
John Pfingstag (aka allstateguy) came by for a visit today. In lieu of starting a new thread we thought we would post about the visit here. First and foremost, if you ever have a chance to meet John please take time to do so, he's a very nice person and was very patient with us as we fired about 100 questions at him (we tried to soak up as much knowlege with a person on site as possible; it's much easier if they can just point at what they are talking about for you!) John also fixed our driver's side door latch, helped us ID some of the items found in the trunk, and picked up his Jaguar emblem that he won by being the first to figure out why Tracy named her car Karl. We really appreciate the time he took to stop by and check out our new project. He was also kind enough to give us a great deal on a driver's side floor pan and even threw in a set of matching headlight rims (the one we found in the trunk is cracked.) Thanks again, John! We look forward to seeing your Lark and watching its progress!

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f352/studebakertruck/IMG_5586.jpg

John and Tracy Smith
Queen Creek Arizona
http://1955studebaker.blogspot.com/
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f352/studebakertruck/IMG_3130.jpg http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f352/studebakertruck/IMG_3159.jpg

StudeRich
12-21-2008, 03:27 AM
Nice Tracy & John! I don't know why when allstateguy offered you those floor pans, I just automatically assumed he had a floor cut out of a good parts car, but these are new repro. pans! [^] They will be a little harder to install, but better in the long run.

I think it is kinda funny that you are the only posters that we never know who we are talking too, Tracy or John! :D That could bite us one day! :D :D

http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa221/studerich/My64Daytona.jpg
StudeRich at Studebakers Northwest -Ferndale,WA

rodnutrandy
12-21-2008, 04:57 AM
Seems like you got answers needed. Since their are no stupid questions, anybody have a free Studebaker they can deliver to me in Sw Ohio ? (just kidding!)

Randy Wilkin
1946 M5 Streetrod
Hillsboro,Ohio 45133
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3182/3105614572_3fbddc8fd7_m.jpg

bridgegaurd
12-21-2008, 05:30 AM
quote:Originally posted by John and Tracy Smith

Well, we must say that Tracy is pretty much a pure stock kind of gal. Since this one's her baby, John's only free labor and all decisions get signed off by her (no modifications on this one, with the exception of maybe some leopard print seat covers...just joking...I think...)

John and Tracy Smith
Queen Creek Arizona
I can dig it, don't forget the anntena foxtail, some appletons and some moons. Just none of those stupid dice,i never seen a car with them on it until shanana and grease came around. Thats for gomers only. Although i personaly prefer zebra skin. You have to do something to get away from the granny look. Thank heysus it's not a four door. :)

StudeRich
12-21-2008, 02:16 PM
What are you? Some kinda MOVIE PRODUCER or somethin? [?] :D


quote:Originally posted by A1956GoldenHawk

Only wish I had their signatures on this Personal Management Agreement so we can see just how far "The Smith Family" can take it ....hint, hint!!!;)[/blue][/b]

http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa221/studerich/My64Daytona.jpg
StudeRich at Studebakers Northwest -Ferndale,WA