PDA

View Full Version : REACH ROD HITTING HEADERS HELP!!



prager
11-25-2006, 09:56 AM
Hello all, I am having a problem with my reach rod hitting the headers on my 62 lark. Has anybody had this problem? Can the rod be modified with out messing up the other parts, or is there another rod I should look for? It bumps the headers pretty good..right on the gasket flange..Am I screwed??[xx(]

Still working to restore my 62 Lark in South Bend, Indiana

N8N
11-25-2006, 10:47 AM
How's your engine mounts?

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

prager
11-25-2006, 11:00 AM
Nate, I've got the 65-66 chevy type mounts, I thought about raising the engine, but I worried about the trans angle and it hitting the floor boards..

Still working to restore my 62 Lark in South Bend, Indiana

Dick Steinkamp
11-25-2006, 11:36 AM
quote:Originally posted by prager

Nate, I've got the 65-66 chevy type mounts


I ran into the same interference prob putting the Chevy in my '54. With ANY engine change, you will have to plan very carefully, then make compromises (it won't fit like factory). I wanted my engine in a position to use a clutch fan AND the stock fan shroud AND I wanted to use block hugger headers. With these as "givens", I had to move the steering box down 1/2", back 1/2" and lengthen the reach rod. There are other ways to solve this problem (different...custom?...headers, change the engine position, etc.). If this is the ONLY problem you encounter with the swap, consider yourself VERY fortunate [^]. Most will involve about a dozen problems like this to solve.

http://static.flickr.com/100/301465853_2dbe07b7c6_m.jpg
Dick Steinkamp
Bellingham, WA

prager
11-25-2006, 12:55 PM
Here's a pic..http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o247/brewlover/Picture171.jpg

Still working to restore my 62 Lark in South Bend, Indiana

gordr
11-25-2006, 02:39 PM
Looks like the interference is worst at full left lock?

You realize, of course, that when Studebaker adopted the 283 engine, they picked a manifold design that was comapatible with their frame? I'm just saying that there may be NO way for you to use those manifolds in that particular car. Not all Chevy parts are universally compatible.:D

Having said that, can you move the engine to the right? or back?

Failing that, perhaps you could determine that X degrees of rearward slant on the downpipes would move the flange back far enough to clear the reach rod. Then bolt the left side header to a scrap head and make a Vee cut with a die grinder or hacksaw and weld it up again.

I would avoid messing with the reach rod at all costs.

Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

prager
11-25-2006, 02:56 PM
Gord, thanks for the good advise..I guess at worst case I could use the correct manifolds. I have aluminum heads on the engine, and wonder if the 65-66 manifolds would be too restrictive? Any thoughts? Thanks!!

Still working to restore my 62 Lark in South Bend, Indiana

Challenger
11-25-2006, 03:56 PM
It appears that you have the generic "block hugger" headers installed on your car. Iron exhaust manifolds probably would resolve your clearance problems and are low-mainenance with respect to leaks. Power output at high rpm would be diminished, somewhat. The type used on most 70--80's Chevrolets full-size cars, trucks and vans has the outlets toward the rear. I can't say that I would recommend altering any steering component, such as the reach rod. You run the risk of solving one problem, at the expense of creating another. [:0]

Mike Van Veghten
11-25-2006, 04:04 PM
If it were mine...I'd move the engine over a little. Just be sure and keep the crank centerline 90 degrees to the rear axle.

Youl'd have to move it too far back...though that would be "prefeable"...if you can, do that! Otherwise just do what most of the OEM's do...slide it to the right an inch. Nothing will be harmed. The big three factories have been doing it for years.

You say you have aluminim heads but I don't know what else you've got inside the engine...so I can't say anything about the restrictive flow! If you have a bigger cam, manifold and carburetor thAn original...then yes...the stock manifolds "will" hamper the exit of exhaust gasses.

Mike

prager
11-25-2006, 04:09 PM
Challenger & Mike V. Thanks for the ideas..Mike, the engine has a medium-high hot cam..( exact don't know..long story) Alum intake heads blah blah..built for good power..how bad do you guys think my power loss at tip in to mid range would be? 10-15 hp? Also heat..Am I going to run a chance at messing up the heads? Thanks!

Still working to restore my 62 Lark in South Bend, Indiana

PackardV8
11-25-2006, 05:09 PM
FWIW, don't think cast iron headers would make any noticeable difference from tip-in through mid-range. The type headers you have only make 15-20 hp difference in rear wheel horsepower in the +4000 RPM range when running through a street muffler system.

thnx, jv.

PackardV8

prager
11-25-2006, 05:27 PM
Packard, thanks for the tip..I just happened to think...These heads are angle plug, D shaped exhaust port type..Will the 65-66 still go onto these with plug clearance etc? Man!!!!! One problem after another!![B)]

Still working to restore my 62 Lark in South Bend, Indiana

keeffer
11-25-2006, 06:38 PM
when i did mine i shorten the pitman arm 1/2 inch worked great

keith kirchhoff
brockport ny 14420

Mike Van Veghten
11-25-2006, 10:13 PM
While I would generaly agree with the others on any perceptable power loss at low (up to 2500rpm) would be minimal at best...
I'd guess you put all these nice parts on the engine for more thAn just show?

For "any" fun sort of driving or cruzing on the freeways, I'd guess the power/drivability/milage loss would start showing up in the 3000rpm range and obviously higher. And as we know SBC's love to be in the 3500+rpm range on the freeway! At least mine do!

Move the engine over.......leave your shorties on.

Mike

KGlowacky
11-26-2006, 05:25 PM
My thought would to cut the header flange loose and re clock it so that all three bolte are usable and custom bend the pipe (dent,indent,etc.). And if there stil isn't enough clearance I would lenghten the header and then weld the flange back on. You could make the extention custom fit around the rod or a smaller dia.. Any good Muffler shop could do this. It sure seems easier then moving the motor. It appears they are ceramic coated, you may have to get it coated again. Good Luck.

Mike Van Veghten
11-26-2006, 06:19 PM
Actually...part of that isn't a bad idea.

Cut the collector off about an inch above the flange. Add about three inches of the same diameter tubing. You could even put a piece of bent tube in there to angle the flange to the rear. Then carefully with a torch and a hammer, flatten "just" the offending area slightly. If you angled the new piece in slightly more rearward and toward the block, that would help also. Then weld the original flange back on with the bolt pattern in an easy to get to location.

You'ld obviously have to have that header re-nickle plated or just carefully painted.

Mike

KGlowacky
11-26-2006, 07:49 PM
Thanks, Mike, I think! I want to believe all of my idea wasn't bad, not just a part. Just Kidding, I hope between all of us a good solution cane be obtained. Have a good day.

prager
11-27-2006, 09:07 AM
Thanks Mike and KG..I was looking into that idea as well. I think it is probably the most feasable in my case. I have a buddy that works at a Midas store..I'm going to have him take a close look and see what kind of plan he can devise..I'll let you guys know how it turns out..Thanks again!!!

Still working to restore my 62 Lark in South Bend, Indiana

prager
11-27-2006, 09:14 AM
Also, where could I get these replated? Would it be a problem to just paint the offending area rather that send out for coating?

Still working to restore my 62 Lark in South Bend, Indiana

Dick Steinkamp
11-27-2006, 11:44 AM
quote:Originally posted by prager

Also, where could I get these replated? Would it be a problem to just paint the offending area rather that send out for coating?



Any Very Hot Temperature paint is going to fail in pretty short order if you actually drive the car. I'd start with an uncoated header to do the modifications. These guys are the industry leader in exhaust system coating...

http://www.jet-hot.com/

IIRC, it was about $150 or so to coat a set of block huggers.



http://static.flickr.com/100/301465853_2dbe07b7c6_m.jpg
Dick Steinkamp
Bellingham, WA

prager
11-27-2006, 03:26 PM
Thanks for the lead Dick! I have to use the set I have and are already coated, luckily only one needs to be worked on, so with any luck the cost to recoat won't be too bad..

Still working to restore my 62 Lark in South Bend, Indiana

Studebayker
11-27-2006, 09:22 PM
Speedway Motors sells, or used to sell Cerma-Kote that you could
spray on with an air brush, and bake it in your oven. I even did it
it the wife's oven once. It don't sell up the house either. I think
it costs about $20.00. I have coated 2 sets of shorty headers, and a couple of cadillac exhaust manifolds, and have some left.


James K. Clark
East Tenn.
Don't take yoursellf too seriously!

James K. Clark

prager
11-28-2006, 09:49 AM
James, heck of an idea!! Thanks for the info, I may very well go that route.. How's it look when it's done?

Still working to restore my 62 Lark in South Bend, Indiana

ralt12
12-03-2006, 02:13 AM
This is how we worked around the steering/header issue. It's a real PITA with long tubes, lots ot thought required...

http://show.imagehosting.us/show/1790077/0/nouser_1790/T1_-1_1790077.jpg

'53 Commander

DEEPNHOCK
12-03-2006, 08:59 AM
Couple of thoughts...
Screwed? No way...
[u]Never get into a box you have to think outside of!</u>;)
There are two styles of generic block hugger headers for the sbc.
One style has the center two tubes 'in' and the other has them 'out'.
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/eccStoreFront/product_images/900-949%202ND/930-0101C_R.jpg
and
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/eccStoreFront/product_images/900-949%202ND/930-8037_R.jpg
But, the collector and flanges are both in the same position.
Perhaps the generic 'long tube' block hugger headers might move the collector and flange down lower and away from the steering box and reach rod.
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/eccStoreFront/product_images/900-949%203RD/930-0103H_R.jpg
Anywhoo.. Some good header info is at:
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/xq/aspx/parent_id.281/dept_id.415/qx/DisplayGroup.htm
Just thinking out loud.
Jeff[8D]


quote:Originally posted by prager

Hello all, I am having a problem with my reach rod hitting the headers on my 62 lark. Has anybody had this problem? Can the rod be modified with out messing up the other parts, or is there another rod I should look for? It bumps the headers pretty good..right on the gasket flange..Am I screwed??[xx(]

Still working to restore my 62 Lark in South Bend, Indiana


http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j54/deepnhock/Jeff%20Rice%20Studebaker%20Pictures/1937StudebakerCoupeExpressJeffRicee.jpg

DEEPNHOCK at Gmail.com
Brooklet, Georgia
'37 Coupe Express (never ending project)
'37 Coupe Express Trailer (project)
'61 Hawk (project)
http://community.webshots.com/user/deepnhock

prager
12-04-2006, 06:39 PM
Jeff, thanks for the link..I'm currently trying the rams horn manifold from a 66 Stude..Now it appears that the arm from the steering gear travels into the path way of where the collector should go..How did they pull this off in 65-66?[?]

Still working to restore my 62 Lark in South Bend, Indiana