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tstclr
11-22-2006, 09:26 PM
Well, I decided to check the brakes on the 64 Dayatona tonight. The good news-they are all like new. The bad news? The right rear hub castle nut is toast-completely stripped and the hub threads don't look the greatest. Does anyone on here happen to have a good used nut and possibly a hub? I'm in a bit of a jam as the car is stuck on the hoist at work[xx(]. I might be able to clean up the threads on the hub but the nut is long gone. Perhaps someone near Ingersoll would have one?? It's a Dana 27 tapered style..(I HATE THESE AXLES!)
Thanks!
Todd


63 Lark 2dr Sedan
64 Daytona 4dr Sedan

N8N
11-22-2006, 09:51 PM
I have some BRAND NEW nuts that I picked up at a swap meet, the only problem is that the hex size is slightly larger than stock. LMK if you can't find any by the weekend (won't be able to get my hands on them before then)

When you say "the hub threads don't look the greatest" I assume you actually mean the end of the axle? you can get a die for the threads, but you only get one shot at it - if you cross thread it it's new axle time so be careful.

clean everything well, install hub dry, taper on key goes down and in, torque to spec... um... that's about it.

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

tstclr
11-22-2006, 10:26 PM
Thanks guys. There's a couple of local guys who are into Studebakers (Don Simmons is one who has been a fantastic help in the past) but wouldn't ya know it, they aren't home tonight. SASCO shows the nuts in stock so worse case I could overnight one by Purolator. That would make it about a $50 nut....

Todd


63 Lark 2dr Sedan
64 Daytona 4dr Sedan

gordr
11-22-2006, 10:27 PM
quote:Originally posted by tstclr

Well, I decided to check the brakes on the 64 Dayatona tonight. The good news-they are all like new. The bad news? The right rear hub castle nut is toast-completely stripped and the hub threads don't look the greatest. Does anyone on here happen to have a good used nut and possibly a hub? I'm in a bit of a jam as the car is stuck on the hoist at work[xx(]. I might be able to clean up the threads on the hub but the nut is long gone. Perhaps someone near Ingersoll would have one?? It's a Dana 27 tapered style..(I HATE THESE AXLES!)
Thanks!
Todd


63 Lark 2dr Sedan
64 Daytona 4dr Sedan


Todd,

You can get thread restorer files at a good industrial supply house. Does Ingersoll have a House of Tools, or a Busy Bee Machine Tools? I've had good luck with careful use of a thread restorer file on bodged axle threads.

I probably have a spare 27 axle shaft or two around here. I could throw one on the Greyhound, and you'd get it in a couple of days. If you want one, let me know ASAP, as I plan to go to Vancouver for a few days.

Did you take the nut off and reverse it before using the drum puller?

Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

tstclr
11-23-2006, 07:03 AM
Thanks Gord,
I should know by this afternoon if I can't get what I need locally. Ingersoll is a pretty small town and we don't have much as far as machine shops or suppliers. I still need to dig up the proper die for the axle too. Here's a novice question: If I had to, would a standard nut work if I notched it for the cotter pin?

Todd


63 Lark 2dr Sedan
64 Daytona 4dr Sedan

gordr
11-23-2006, 01:44 PM
quote:Originally posted by tstclr

Thanks Gord,
I should know by this afternoon if I can't get what I need locally. Ingersoll is a pretty small town and we don't have much as far as machine shops or suppliers. I still need to dig up the proper die for the axle too. Here's a novice question: If I had to, would a standard nut work if I notched it for the cotter pin?

Todd


63 Lark 2dr Sedan
64 Daytona 4dr Sedan


Castellated nuts are usually deeper than a standard nut. Slot a standard nut, and you won't have very many continuous threads left.

Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

kmul221
11-23-2006, 05:31 PM
I'm sure I have a castle nut(new) around here,give me a day to look.
I know for sure I have a new axle in the garage with no bearing on it.I also have a thread chaser for cleaning up damaged threads that I purchased at a industrial tool supply house,I believe it cost about $15-20.but take a good nut with U so they can give U the right one.
I'm in Hamilton,you took all my old TW for the cost of postage.Will post latter if I get a chance to look.----Kevin

tstclr
11-23-2006, 09:24 PM
Thanks for the offer Kevin. We got it all ironed out. A huge thanks to Don at Silvertone Exhaust for providing me with the correct nut (which he happened to buy at Omaha this year!). One of our techs had a thread chaser and cleaned up the axle. I'm relieved that it's fixed. Tonight I replaced the leaking lower rad hose, fixed a fuel line, replaced some bulbs and let her run for about 20 minutes. She really runs on after she is shut down. Probably a mix of poor gas, carbon and maybe the timing needs adjusting. Speaking of bulbs, I purchased a set of LED bulbs that replace standard 1157 bulbs. They work quite well and should last a long time. They draw less current as well. The master cylinder should be in Monday and we'll be good to go.:)

Todd

63 Lark 2dr Sedan
64 Daytona 4dr Sedan

blackhawk
11-25-2006, 02:31 AM
quote:Speaking of bulbs, I purchased a set of LED bulbs that replace standard 1157 bulbs. They work quite well and should last a long time. They draw less current as well. Todd - this is off topic, but tell me more about the LED replacement bulbs. I want some. Do you have the brand and part number? Thanks. Dale

tstclr
11-25-2006, 11:53 AM
I don't remember the name brand as I have since tossed out the packages. I picked them up at a store we have here in Canada called "Princess Auto" which is a lot like your Harbour Frieght. They were only $6 each(on sale-reg $10) . They were available in amber, red or clear (clear cost more $). I thought they'd be much brighter than they are (they are about the same as a standard bulb) however they won't burn out, run cooler and use less energy.
Todd


63 Lark 2dr Sedan
64 Daytona 4dr Sedan

blackhawk
11-26-2006, 02:11 AM
quote:Originally posted by tstclr

I don't remember the name brand as I have since tossed out the packages. I picked them up at a store we have here in Canada called "Princess Auto" which is a lot like your Harbour Frieght. They were only $6 each(on sale-reg $10) . They were available in amber, red or clear (clear cost more $). I thought they'd be much brighter than they are (they are about the same as a standard bulb) however they won't burn out, run cooler and use less energy.
Todd
Thanks Todd. I am disappointed to find that they are not brighter but running cooler will definitely help. I put an additional socket with 1157 bulb in each tail light housing on my '64 Cruiser many years ago to get brighter tail lights and brake lights. It helped, but the heat from the extra bulb is too much. Both have melted a tiny hole in the tail light lens. So, I am still looking for a brighter alternative to stock but without the heat. Dale

DEEPNHOCK
11-26-2006, 08:47 AM
A couple of years ago I did an LED conversion on the yellow truck.
http://rides.webshots.com/album/54792831KPkAjw?start=0
The fronts were great (if you don't mind the 'off yellow' color).
The rear LED's were not bright enough.

http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j54/deepnhock/Jeff%20Rice%20Studebaker%20Pictures/LEDTailLight005.jpg
Running Lights

http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j54/deepnhock/Jeff%20Rice%20Studebaker%20Pictures/LEDTailLight008.jpg
Brake Lights

Tried a couple manufacturers and ended up removing them and putting halogen bulbs in the back. Halogens were definitely bright enough, but might bring lens problems due to heat. Also be aware that if you do run 'all' LED's, you will need to change over to an electronic flasher. The old bi-metal strip flashers will not trip with an LED bulb as there is not enough current draw to heat up the bimetal strip to trip the flasher.
Hope the info helps...
Jeff[8D]


quote:Originally posted by blackhawk


quote:Speaking of bulbs, I purchased a set of LED bulbs that replace standard 1157 bulbs. They work quite well and should last a long time. They draw less current as well. Todd - this is off topic, but tell me more about the LED replacement bulbs. I want some. Do you have the brand and part number? Thanks. Dale


http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j54/deepnhock/Jeff%20Rice%20Studebaker%20Pictures/1937StudebakerCoupeExpressJeffRicee.jpg

DEEPNHOCK at Gmail.com
Brooklet, Georgia
'37 Coupe Express (never ending project)
'37 Coupe Express Trailer (project)
'61 Hawk (project)
http://community.webshots.com/user/deepnhock

bams50
11-26-2006, 09:24 AM
Wouldn't the answer be to add more LEDs?

I've seen them done by different mfgrs, and they all seemed like they just put in enough individual lights to make the brightness desired.

Robert K. Andrews Owner- IoMT (Island of Misfit Toys!)
Parish, central NY 13131
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2358680/1

tstclr
11-26-2006, 10:12 AM
The bulbs I purchased had 9 LEDs. I dont think there would be much room for more. I'm sure there are brighter LED's out there. Cadillac has some pretty bright LED's on their cars. Jeff, thanks for the heads up about the flasher. With just the LED's in the rear, I did notice a small delay before the flasher kicked in. I do need to get halogen headlights as well.
Todd


63 Lark 2dr Sedan
64 Daytona 4dr Sedan

blackhawk
11-26-2006, 12:59 PM
quote:The fronts were great (if you don't mind the 'off yellow' color).
The rear LED's were not bright enough. Tried a couple manufacturers and ended up removing them and putting halogen bulbs in the back. Halogens were definitely bright enough, but might bring lens problems due to heat. DEEPNHOCKJeff - thanks for all the great photos of your LED installation! I guess for now I will put in Halogen 1157 bulbs. I did not know there was such a thing. That will help a lot and if I only replace the bulbs in the original sockets, I should not have a heat problem. The second socket that I added in each housing put the bulb closer to the lens and that caused the lens melting problem. Maybe some others will post more about the LED possibilities and provide a better (brighter) solution than the Halogen 1157 bulbs. Dale

studeclunker
11-27-2006, 03:21 AM
As a Commercial driver, I hear the complaints of the other drivers a lot. One of the Greyhound Drivers and shared by most truckers is that the LED tail lights DON'T generate any heat, to speak of. This isn't a problem in the summer. In the winter it could be disastrous. As snow builds up on the tail lights, it usually sloughs off due to the faint heat of the lens. With LEDs there is little or no heat. Therefore the snow and ice glue on with a vengence. One becomes invisible from the rear. Not a good thing. With the new buses we have to check our rear lights on a regular basis in the winter. Can't get to the high brake lights though.

Personally, I can't understand this desire to remove the original equipment. A '64 has plenty bright enough tail lights. There's no real reason to change them.

Then again, has anyone seen the arrangement for a '57 Packard(Town Sedan, my favourite)? That HUGE lens and only one bulb![}:)] Go figure.:D(LOL)

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b18/Studeclunker/studebaby/54wagonblue-2.jpghttp://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b18/Studeclunker/studebaby/red54wagon-1.jpg
Lotsa Larks!
K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Studebaker!
Ron Smith

poppopstude
11-27-2006, 10:47 AM
their is several places on ebay to get l.e.d.many with up to 20 led any thing i can do to help save rear end is worth it ill get out and clear the snow if nessasary

blackhawk
11-28-2006, 03:17 AM
quote:Originally posted by poppopstude

their is several places on ebay to get l.e.d.many with up to 20 led any thing i can do to help save rear end is worth it ill get out and clear the snow if nessasary
I agree. Maybe my Cruiser had decent tail lights when the lens and reflectors were new, but they sure are not adequate now. The tail lights on my Dad's '64 Cruiser aren't any better. All the new vehicles have much, much better lights. I want tail lights like those so people can see me and not run into the back of my car. Here, when it is -40 and colder there is ice fog and you can barely see the car in front of you. Better lights would help a lot. I can say from experience too that the heat from 1157 bulbs does not melt the snow off the lens when driving in serious subzero temperatures. You sweep the car BEFORE driving off so the snow does not blow back onto the taillights and you clear the lens everytime you stop.

I have been searching the web and there is a lot of info on LED lights and sources to buy them at. For example, check out http://www.superbrightleds.com/tail-brake-turn.html. The have 1157 size LEDs with up to 30 LEDs, wide or narrow viewing angle, and clear, red or amber color.

Dale

CHAMP
11-28-2006, 07:17 AM
My 48 champion is 6 volt and I don't think any body makes LED bulbs for 6 volt. I don't drive a lot at night but I do have the inside of the tailights painted white and I feel they are bright enough. But if someone made 6 volt bulbs I would put them in my car.

GARY H 2DR.SEDAN 48 STUDEBAKER CHAMPION NORTHEAST MD.

DEEPNHOCK
11-28-2006, 07:52 AM
6 volt LED lights?
Yes, they are available!
George Rorbach has had 6 volt LED tail lights made up.
http://www.highspeedmotors.com/
Hope the info helps.
Jeff[8D]



quote:Originally posted by CHAMP

My 48 champion is 6 volt and I don't think any body makes LED bulbs for 6 volt. I don't drive a lot at night but I do have the inside of the tailights painted white and I feel they are bright enough. But if someone made 6 volt bulbs I would put them in my car.

GARY H 2DR.SEDAN 48 STUDEBAKER CHAMPION NORTHEAST MD.


http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j54/deepnhock/Jeff%20Rice%20Studebaker%20Pictures/1937StudebakerCoupeExpressJeffRicee.jpg

DEEPNHOCK at Gmail.com
Brooklet, Georgia
'37 Coupe Express (never ending project)
'37 Coupe Express Trailer (project)
'61 Hawk (project)
http://community.webshots.com/user/deepnhock

CHAMP
11-28-2006, 09:02 AM
Thanks Jeff, At twenty-eight dollars a bulb I guess I would just use two for the tailight/stoplights and leave the turn siginals stock.

GARY H 2DR.SEDAN 48 STUDEBAKER CHAMPION NORTHEAST MD.

gordr
11-29-2006, 12:46 AM
quote:Originally posted by studeclunker

As a Commercial driver, I hear the complaints of the other drivers a lot. One of the Greyhound Drivers and shared by most truckers is that the LED tail lights DON'T generate any heat, to speak of. This isn't a problem in the summer. In the winter it could be disastrous. As snow builds up on the tail lights, it usually sloughs off due to the faint heat of the lens. With LEDs there is little or no heat. Therefore the snow and ice glue on with a vengence. One becomes invisible from the rear. Not a good thing. With the new buses we have to check our rear lights on a regular basis in the winter. Can't get to the high brake lights though.

Personally, I can't understand this desire to remove the original equipment. A '64 has plenty bright enough tail lights. There's no real reason to change them.

Then again, has anyone seen the arrangement for a '57 Packard(Town Sedan, my favourite)? That HUGE lens and only one bulb![}:)] Go figure.:D(LOL)

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b18/Studeclunker/studebaby/54wagonblue-2.jpghttp://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b18/Studeclunker/studebaby/red54wagon-1.jpg
Lotsa Larks!
K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Studebaker!
Ron Smith


Ron, I can attest to that. I drove through Kicking Horse Pass in the Canadian Rockies this past Saturday, and drew up behind a semi pulling a van trailer. Tail lamps and amber side clearance lamps were readily visible, but the red clearance/ID lamps on the top rear of the van trailer were almost totally obscured by snow. I can't say for sure if they were LED lamps, but there's no question that snow can obscure lamps in a big way.

Be careful out there, especially those of you who have to contend with winter driving conditions.

Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

mbstude
11-29-2006, 09:20 AM
I'm glad I live in a place with no snow.[8D] The summers here are a differnt story though. [xx(]

_____________________________________

Matthew Burnette
Hazlehurst, Georgia
'59 Scotsman PU
'63 Daytona HT

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j209/mbstude/side_body_avatar.jpg

http://mbstudebaker.blogspot.com/
http://thestudillac.blogspot.com/