PDA

View Full Version : what is the replacement for 670/15 tires ?????



bradnree
11-20-2006, 08:31 PM
What is the proper replacement tire for 670/15 bias to radial. Also, 710/15 and 640/15...thanks...brad

Challenger
11-20-2006, 08:40 PM
Well, a 6.70 might be a bit larger in dia/Height, but you might visit a tire shop with your rim and start by trying out a 195-75-15 or a 205-75-15, two readily-available sizes. Modern tires have a lower aspect ratio. They are wider, relative to their diameter. otherwise,if that doesn't suit you,it is going to be a repro antique tire company like Coker Tire in Hemmings that can supply a very close match for your sizes.

John Kirchhoff
11-20-2006, 09:18 PM
You're not going to find anything close in BOTH height and width. Old tire had a 100% aspect ratio, in other words a tire 6.7 inches wide was also 6.7 inches from the rim to the outside of the tire. A 165 metric tire will be close to the width but only a little over 5 inches high with a 75% aspect rration. Besides, I don't think you'd ever find a 165X75X15, most of those widths are 13s. To get the same height, you'll need a 225X75X15 which will be close to 9 inches wide and may very well be too wide for the fenderwells. I used to run 215X75X15 on my Hawk with Chrysler wheels. They were just about as big as I could go. One problem was the Chrysler wheels had less offset than the Stude wheels and the former stuck out farther. I didn't want to go with Stude wheels because mine were only 5 inches wide and did not have safety rims. A 5 inch is kind of narrow for a 215. With wider wheels that had more offset to the inside, you could probably go wider. On the Chrysler wheels I have (mid 70s-80s), the difference in width between a 5.5 and 6.5 inch width is all on the outside where the least amount of room is. Just remember that 1 inch is approximately 25 millimeters, which is what the first number on metric tires denotes. The second number is the aspect ratio or tire height stated as a percentage. Hope this helps.

hank63
11-21-2006, 07:43 AM
I faced a dilemma, exactly as explained by John K. I stumbled across a solution that was good enough (for me, anyway).
I wanted to replace a 17" x-ply with something radial. I found a 4-wheel drive tyre at 205x16, but SERIES 85, which made it a very "tall" tyre. It was labelled as "95% road pattern" and has worked a treat eversince. (I did have to rework the 17" rims, though, but the end result was well worth the effort).
The 205x16 tyre came out of Asia. Don't know if you can get 'em in your place. But if you don't ask .......
/H

53k
11-21-2006, 04:12 PM
quote:Originally posted by Challenger

Well, a 6.70 might be a bit larger in dia/Height, but you might visit a tire shop with your rim and start by trying out a 195-75-15 or a 205-75-15, two readily-available sizes. Modern tires have a lower aspect ratio. They are wider, relative to their diameter. otherwise,if that doesn't suit you,it is going to be a repro antique tire company like Coker Tire in Hemmings that can supply a very close match for your sizes.

195s are pretty much unobtanium now. They were suggested as the replacement for 6.00x15 bias ply. I ran 225x75x15s on 6.5 inch MoPar rims on my '64 Avanti to get the correct 6.70x15 height. I didn't have any problems with rubbing, but I had trouible with the fenders hitting the tire on hard turns and a bump. However, my odometer and speedometer were vitrually dead-on accurate with the 225s. I checked a ten-mile stretch using the Interstate mile markers and I recorded 10.1 miles in ten miles. 205x75s will make your speedometer and odometer read faster and further than you are actually going. For example, a speedometer reading of 65 may be only 58 or so and ten recorded miles may only be 8+.

[img=right]http://www.frontiernet.net/~thejohnsons/64%20Daytona%20Convertible/Copy%20of%20DaytonaConvert7-20-06.JPG[/img=right]

Paul Johnson
'53 Commander Starliner (since 1966)
'64 Daytona Wagonaire (original owner)
'64 Daytona Convertible (2006)
Museum R-4 engine

Randy_G
01-17-2007, 09:03 PM
I know this is a old topic but I did a search and found it,[8D] and I wanted to ask... what if you split the differnce between a 205 and a 225 and put a 215/75-15 on it??? anyone done this??

Randy_G
www.AutomotiveHistoryOnline.com
http://www.automotivehistoryonline.com/small59.jpg

John Kirchhoff
01-18-2007, 10:20 AM
I ran 215x75x15 on 5.5" Chrysler rims on my Hawk with no problems as far as clearance goes. Don't know how fender clearance compares on Larks though.

Scott
01-18-2007, 11:16 AM
Unobtainium? NOT SO! See this link for Firestone reproduction tires 6.70 x 15" with 1 inch whitewall. This is virtually identical to the tires used 1962-1964. The price: $130 each (ouch).
http://www.ecklers.com/product.asp?pf%5Fid=29371&dept%5Fid=261

John Kirchhoff
01-18-2007, 04:19 PM
I've never seen a reproduction tire up close, so I'm not familiar with their carcass construction. If it's anything like the orginals, I sure wouldn't waste my money on them unless the car's strictly for show. Those old jobs were bias ply construction and at high speeds, centrifigual force would make them taller but narrower, reducing the size of the contact patch. They'd also squirm like a snake at higher speeds. I once saw a high speed photography clip of a bias ply tire at 70 mph and the tire reminded me of when you take a rope and whip it side to side turning it into an S pattern. I could be wrong, but I think it wasn't until the letter series tires that belted construction became common. Those tires had a 78% aspect ratio and the belt around the circumference of the tire kept them from getting tall, skinny and squirmy at high speeds. The same film clip also showed a belted tire at the same speed and it didn't grow, squirm or do anything acrobatic and the tread stayed on the pavement nice and flat. To me, for a car being used as a driver, modern tires on safety rims are in the same "save your butt" category as upgrading your brakes.

55s
01-18-2007, 05:21 PM
I did some checking before and the 195 x 75R15s were the tires that were becoming hard to get. If you find a source, let us all know.

I also believe in the safety of radial tires, heck with the judging.

FYI, radial tires have a "shelf life" that seems to be a maximum of 10 years or so from manufacture, while bias ply tires seem to hold air forever, even though they may be rotten as well.

Paul R

bradnree
01-18-2007, 07:16 PM
Try:.........www.dakota-truck.net go to "tire and wheel calculator"................Brad

bradnree
01-18-2007, 07:52 PM
Found another calculator...........www.galaxieclub.com I found this site on Yahoo and it does a slick conversion from oldies to radial..............Brad

Randy_G
01-18-2007, 09:03 PM
On the topic of a bias ply holding air forever just check out the photo below of my Lark. It has 3 bias ply tires on it all holding air. The one flat is a radial, the car was last registered in 1984. I have no idea how old these tires are but they are still holding air. also I think that when I do finaly get to put a set of tires on it I will go with the 215/75-15's log on to walmart.com and you can get one for under $50.00 bucks for a whitewall. Cheaper than Coker and alot of other retro tire places.

Randy_G
www.AutomotiveHistoryOnline.com
http://www.automotivehistoryonline.com/small59.jpg

JDP
01-18-2007, 09:22 PM
I could not find any Cooker style wide whites on Walmart's web site you posted.


64 Commander 2 dr.
63 R2 4 speed GT Hawk (Black) #2
63 Avanti R1
63 Daytona convert
63 Lark 2 door
63 Lark 2 door #2
62 Daytona HT/ 4 speed
62 Lark 2 door
62 GT Hawk 4 speed
60 Lark HT
60 Hawk
59 3E truck
52 Starliner
51 Commander

50starlite
01-18-2007, 09:34 PM
I have a set of 6:40-15 Firestone, bias, tubeless with tubes, black wall tires that are almost new. I would guess they are less than four years old and probably don't have 200 miles on them. They were on my 50 Starlight when I got the car. These were the tires that replaced the cars original ones, which I still have also. I replaced them with P205/75R 15 Kumho tires. Wow! What an improvement.

Soooo... anyone interested in four, like new, 6:40-15's? Make an offer.

Dick
Mountain Home, AR
http://livingintheozarks.com/studebaker.htm
dick@century21lemac.com
http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p312/50starlite/6.jpg

Randy_G
01-18-2007, 09:44 PM
quote:Originally posted by JDP

I could not find any Cooker style wide whites on Walmart's web site you posted.
I miss spoke or typed[:I], I ment to say you could get a nice whitewall tire for less than $50.00 bucks I didnt mean to imply you could get a Coker Repoduction whitewall there. I'm sorry.[B)]

Randy_G
www.AutomotiveHistoryOnline.com
http://www.automotivehistoryonline.com/small59.jpg

JDP
01-18-2007, 10:42 PM
No biggie, I was all excited for a minute.:) I buy the radial 205x15 white walls at Pep Boys for $139.95/a set of 4 but I'd pay a bit more for a wider white.


64 Commander 2 dr.
63 R2 4 speed GT Hawk (Black) #2
63 Avanti R1
63 Daytona convert
63 Lark 2 door
63 Lark 2 door #2
62 Daytona HT/ 4 speed
62 Lark 2 door
62 GT Hawk 4 speed
60 Lark HT
60 Hawk
59 3E truck
52 Starliner
51 Commander

53k
01-19-2007, 10:33 AM
quote:Originally posted by Scott

Unobtainium? NOT SO! See this link for Firestone reproduction tires 6.70 x 15" with 1 inch whitewall. This is virtually identical to the tires used 1962-1964. The price: $130 each (ouch).
http://www.ecklers.com/product.asp?pf%5Fid=29371&dept%5Fid=261

If you were referring to my my old post, I was referring to 195x75x15 radials. Repro 6.70s are readily available if you want to pay the price. However, the repros ARE slightly wider than the originals. I bought a repro 6.70 for a spare in my '64 Avanti because the F78x15 that was in the tire well wouldn't allow the cover to close. Took off the F78, installed the repro 6.70 and it still wouldn't close, but a NOS 6.70 on an Avanti fibe-inch wheel would.


[img=right]http://www.frontiernet.net/~thejohnsons/Forum%20signature%20pix/R-4.JPG[/img=right][img=right]http://www.frontiernet.net/~thejohnsons/Forum%20signature%20pix/64L.JPG[/img=right][img=right]http://www.frontiernet.net/~thejohnsons/Forum%20signature%20pix/64P.jpg[/img=right][img=right]http://www.frontiernet.net/~thejohnsons/Forum%20signature%20pix/53K.jpg[/img=right]Paul Johnson
'53 Commander Starliner (since 1966)
'64 Daytona Wagonaire (original owner)
'64 Daytona Convertible (2006)
Museum R-4 engine

chocolate turkey
01-20-2007, 10:12 AM
I got a set of tires for our 1966 Daytona from a local dealer. They are 205/75/15 Broadway Classic. Almost identical to 670x15 size. The speedo is vertually right on. Filled with NitrOfill, smooth as glass at any speed! The whitewall size is "period correct", they were about $100.00 ea.

Brian K. Curtis

stuvw2mny
02-13-2007, 03:44 AM
If you have a V8 I would seriously consider 215/75R15 tires, at least on the rear. I am running four 205/75R15s on stock wheels on my 62 hawk and really don't care all that much for them. I am sure the stock wheels are too narrow (4-1/2" ?) for radial tires. I ran a pair of 215/75R15s on the rear of the 56 president and it was really sweet. The President wheels are 5" wide. The 215s are theoretically bigger than the stock bias ply tires, yes, but before radials were available I often ran 1 step oversize tires and they were better riding/handling I felt. My favorite combination is 215R15 tires running on 5-1/2" wheels. These work on all of the Studes I own. Because of fender clearance, some wider wheels will work, some won't.

If you are concerned about matching tire sizes for correct speedometer readings measure the outside circumference of your existing and the new tires when mounted up on wheels. That takes a lot, but not all of the quesswork out of comparing tire sizes. For a 6 cylinder, my guess is that the 195/75R15 would be good. 205s might be a little tall for a stock engine.

Tom B
02-13-2007, 10:58 AM
I have 7.10/15 Coker bias ply tires on my '53 coupe. It came with 7.10s. Coker doesn't stand behind their tires with a guarantee, they claim they are show tires. Not for highway use. I've put maybe 4,000 miles on mine, they don't show wear, but neither do they ride or handle well. (I'm constantly adjusting the steering wheel) They are on 5 inch Stude rims. I'd like to get radial tires, probably will have to forgo the 3 inch white walls, but have no idea what size tires I will need. I'm afraid I'll have to go to the 18" wheels to get the diameter I need. Does anyone have any experience with this diameter tire?

[img=left]http://www.alink.com/personal/tbredehoft/Bothcars.jpg[/img=left]
Tom Bredehoft
'53 Commander Coupe
'60 Lark VI
'05 Legacy Ltd Wagon
All three Indiana built OD cars

John Kirchhoff
02-13-2007, 04:49 PM
To get the same tire height as a 7.10X15, you'd need a 235X75X15 but I doubt you could get one stuffed under the fenders. My '51 has a 3.54 differential so by switching to a 3.31 ratio, I can use common and realitive inexpensive 205X75X15 and maintain the same engine rpm to ground speed. If I keep the 3.54, using the smaller tires would lead me to believe I'm going 4 mph faster than I really am.

Since your car is an overdrive model, I assume it has a 4.1 ratio. Changing that to a 3.73 and using 205X70X15 would give you almost exactly the same rpm. Using 205X75 would drop your 60 mph OD rpm from 1988 to 1930. The good thing is 3.73 ratio axles seen fairly common.

Tom B
02-13-2007, 09:43 PM
It has a 4.54, stump puller. If I remember correctly, I have to change the rear axle entirely to get a ratio below 4.11. When I first put the car on the road, it had 195s on it and I could chirp them in second. Not that I want to, but the 7.10s are much longer legged, don't have the snap any more. But this doesn't matter. I just want better ride/handling when I replace them.

[img=left]http://www.alink.com/personal/tbredehoft/Bothcars.jpg[/img=left]
Tom Bredehoft
'53 Commander Coupe
'60 Lark VI
'05 Legacy Ltd Wagon
All three Indiana built OD cars

StudeRich
02-13-2007, 09:59 PM
John, you got me curious now, this is the second time I have seen you mention "Safety Rims". I've driven my Studes 100's of thousands of miles and never had one spit a tire off the rim. Why are you saying they don't have safety rims? I was under the impression they advertised those in the early 50's when tubeless came out. My '77 Chrysler Cordoba 15X5 1/2 in. rims on my '64 Daytona don't look a bit different than the 4 1/2 in. ones I took off, I don't get it. Please explain why you are so fixated on these new type "safety rims". I never heard of ANYONE ever losing a tire.


quote:Originally posted by John Kirchhoff

I didn't want to go with Stude wheels because mine were only 5 inches wide and did not have safety rims.


StudeRich
Studebakers Northwest
Ferndale, WA

studeclunker
02-14-2007, 12:56 AM
Well, I wonder about the "must replace the original Rims" group myself. The contention is that the original rims were set up for tubed glas-belted tires. While this is true, they seem to work quite well with the new radials as well. Of course, what would I know? I don't go racing around corners squealing tires, nor do I exceed the speed limit on the freeway. In fact, I go the minimum on the freeway (55-60).

A tire that I've found very nice is a chinese made make called Royal Star. The size, I think, is 205-75R-15. They run from $65-75. They have a relitively narrow profile and don't rub in the Lark's wheelwells. I've used them in my '62, '63, '64 Larks and currently my '56 Parkview Wagon. Now, the Parkview is currently running on a set of '62 Lark rims. I haven't yet had new tires mounted on the original rims for this car. It steers fine, rides nice and has no clearance problems. Of course, it does pop, choke, backfire, and generally run like crap at the moment.[:I] But that's an engine problem not related to the tires.[B)][8]

By the by;
I was told by someone somewhere (I forget now) to tell the tire people that you want the same tires used on early Chrysler mini-vans. This way, they have something they can look up on the computer. That's what I tell them and the Royal Stars is what they always come up with.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b18/Studeclunker/studebaby/54wagonblue-2.jpg http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b18/Studeclunker/56%20Parkview%20Wagon/56wagonleftfrontclipped-1.jpg
Lotsa Larks!
K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Studebaker!
Ron Smith
Where the heck is Lewiston, CA?

63larkcustom
02-14-2007, 01:25 AM
Just put a set uf kumho white walls on the 62 wagon.. they were 55/each installed.. 205/75r15. The car performs 100 times better on these vs the bias ply.

John Kirchhoff
02-14-2007, 10:35 AM
StudeRich has brought up my so called "fixation" with saftey rims. Don't worry StudeRich, I'm not upset about you thinking I have a fixation....in fact I had to laugh about it. And yes, I have been known to have a single-mindedness about certain things at certain times. While I'm sure most of you know what constitutes a "safety rim", for those of you that don't, a safety rim has a small ridge approximately 3/4" inside of the wheel's lip that helps keep the tire's bead in its inflated position even when without air pressure. Those are the guys that make dismounting a tire much more difficult than old style smooth rims or those used for agricultural uses because the bead has to be forced over that extra little hump. The same ridge that makes the tires hard to remove (by hand) is the same thing that helps keep the tire on the rim when or if it goes flat. Do they work? You bet they do. As I said, most agriculturial wheels don't have the extra ridge and take my word for it, if you're on hard pavement and have a tire blow out when heavily loaded, the tire is off an ordinary rim instantly and the rim is bent up and ruined before you can get stopped. I have a couple of Ford pickup wheels I modified to fit a wagon which happen to be safety rims. I've had them blow out and whether tube or tubeless, the tire stay on the wheel. In fact once I very slowly limped into the elevator nearly a quarter mile on such a flat tire and while the tire was ruined (it was anyway), the rim was not damaged.

My '62 Lark had a couple of safety rims on it....I don't know if they were orginal Stude wheels or something else but I do have a bunch of old Stude wheels that are not safety rims. I still have the orginal Stude wheels off my parents '60 Lark and they are most certainly not safety rims. Most often you can tell simply by feeling from the outside what style they are...either they will or won't have the little indentation running around the wheel. Some older wheels were kind of hermaphrodites; they have the extra ridge on the outside half (the part closest to the drop center)but not the inside half of the wheel. My motorcycle has a safety rim on the back, but not the front. Of the two, a flat on the back is more apt to cause a wreck than the front. That's because if you have a blow out on the rear and with nothing to keep the tire on the rim, the tire continues on its course but the wheel is going to be jumping approximately three inches from one side to the other side of the tire's beads. This screws up your steering geometry and at best you end up in the ditch or worst, the morgue. One time something sliced a big hole in my rear tire at approximately 50 mph and the tire went totally flat in a matter of seconds. Fortunately, I was within about a half mile of home and was able to slowly ride it home on a field road at 10:30 PM. Oh, the wheel never came off the rim either. Had it not been for the safety rim, I could easily have laid in the ditch all night and StudeRich may not of had the pleasure of calling me on my fixation.

To sum it up, whether you call it a fixation, obsession or preoccupation, I'm absolutely sure that had it not been for Mr. Safety Rim, at a minumum I'd have some cool scars I could impress women with because as all bikers know, chicks dig scars!

52 Ragtop
02-19-2007, 11:16 PM
I bought 205/75/R15s for the 62 ragtop, I ended up with Kumo tires, (Discount Tire here in Indy) started out @ $40 each for a 40K tire, they only had 3 in stock, I wanted 5, so, they "give" me the next upgrade, 60K tire same price, but, they only have 4, I need 5! So, i get the next upgrade to 80K tire, they find 5, I buy them cash and carry $40 each plus tax. So who ever buys my 62 ragtop, will get some pretty decent tires. LOL

Jim

John Kirchhoff
02-20-2007, 06:47 PM
StudeRich, you never said anything about my reply. Did I redeem myself or did I just prove to you I'm crazy as a bedbug? Ha! No, safety rims are nothing new and yes, your Cordoba are just that. The '64 Stude rims may have been also, but I know they weren't in '60. I'm not really sure when manufacturers started using them widely. You also said you've never lost a tire...a lot of that could be due to tubeless tires because they tend to loose air rather slowly compared to a tube tire. Plus, maybe you've been using safety rims and didn't know it. Take my word for it, poke a big hole in a tube tire on old style rims and you'll have the rim on the pavement. The tire may not jump off completely, but it'll be in the drop center flopping around like a fish out of water. For the record, the wheels on my '74 Dodge 1 ton are safety rim AND tubed split rim. Several years ago I ran over a nail and the tire went flat within seconds, but it stayed on the rim and let me get stopped. It was pulling to one side big time, but was controllable. I HATE changing split rims!!!

StudeRich
02-21-2007, 12:02 PM
Sure John; I think that you are just more aware of this situation than myself and most of us, because you have farm implements and motorcycles. I have neither. My first car a '50 Chev. had tube type tires on it, but as soon as the disposable "6" lost a dip & splash rod I sold it and bought a '52 Commander and from then on had Studebakers with tubeless tires, which as you said are a little less prone to get crazy when flat! [^]

StudeRich
Studebakers Northwest
Ferndale, WA