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vegas paul
11-08-2008, 11:32 AM
I need to replace my oil pan gaskets/seals and in order to do this, I must disconnect tie rods and reach rod from bell crank, and remove the bell crank.

OK, I removed the cotter pins & castle nuts from the tie rods, and common sense says they should slip out of the bell crank holes. However, a (reasonable) amount of pulling, tapping, etc. does not budge them. Am I missing something? I love shop manual instructions that say "Disconnect the tie rods and reach rod from the bell crank" with no additional info!

Anyway, any suggestions for removing these?

Las Vegas, NV - Stop by, coffee's on!
'51 Champion Business Coupe G899965 10G-Q4-1434
http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s144/vegas_paul/graciestude_edited.jpg

gordr
11-08-2008, 12:16 PM
Paul, the traditional tool for removing these is called a "pickle fork", which is essentially a wedge with a U-shaped slot that straddles the taper pin, and forces the ball socket and eye apart when you hammer on the end. There are also screw pullers made to do the the job. Search for "tie rod end separator". Harbor Freight should have cheapies that will suffice for occasional use.

What has always worked for me is this: screw the nut back on, flush with the end of the thread, no more. Then take a large hammer, and hold its head tight against one side of the eye (through which the taper pin goes). Take another, slightly smaller hammer, and strike the opposite side of the eye smartly. It may take one blow; could take many, depends on how tight it is and how well your blows connect. Avoid hitting the ball socket or taper pin (the nut is on there to protect the threads in the event it gets windy out and you miss with the hammer). The impact on the sides of the eye creates a force that tends to make the tapered pin pop out of the tapered hole. You won't permanently distort the eye, because steel is elastic, to a point. The eyes are made of forged steel, and are very tough. You may create some surface marks, but you won't cause real damage to the eye.

Geometry-wise, the line of force from the hammer to the backup hammer should be in a plane that is 90 to the axis of the taper pin, and the line of force should intersect the axis of the pin.

This actually works very slick about 90% of the time. But it is a skill you have to learn by practice.

Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

vegas paul
11-08-2008, 04:03 PM
Got one off with the pickle fork, the other tie rod is very stubborn and won't come loose. I'll keep trying.

Las Vegas, NV - Stop by, coffee's on!
'51 Champion Business Coupe G899965 10G-Q4-1434
http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s144/vegas_paul/graciestude_edited.jpg

JBody
11-08-2008, 05:42 PM
You could take the tie rod separator(pickle fork), wedge it in there and apply force while warming the eye of the tie rod with a propane torch. You might want to have a new set of tie-rod boots on hand to install, as removing them tends to tear them up.

ivorydan
11-08-2008, 05:55 PM
Paul, if you have any Autozone stores in your area, they will loan you a tie rod puller for free for up to 90 days. Give them your card, they'll put a $26 deposit on it. You get it back when you return the tool. They have other tools you also can borrow for free.

vegas paul
11-08-2008, 05:57 PM
Got em! Wow, I had budgeted about 2 hours to remove/replace the oil pan, and it took all day. I will get new tie rod boots/grease seals since the old ones weren't that good to begin with and now they are in pieces. I am chasing down a small front end oil leak and I think this will get it. The oil pan gaskets were in pretty bad shape and the fron filler block seal was very cracked.

Thanks for all the help.

Las Vegas, NV - Stop by, coffee's on!
'51 Champion Business Coupe G899965 10G-Q4-1434
http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s144/vegas_paul/graciestude_edited.jpg

ClaymoreWW
11-08-2008, 11:42 PM
Where can you find new boots?

--george

1963 Lark Daytona HT - 63V J8 175
http://www.teamwetworks.com/claymore/larkkey.jpg

vegas paul
11-09-2008, 09:53 AM
George - I don't know exactly where to find the boots. I'm sure the Stude vendors carry them, but I was hoping just to take them to a FLAPS and get a generic substitute. I would think that a Pep Boys or Auto Zone should have something equivalent.

Las Vegas, NV - Stop by, coffee's on!
'51 Champion Business Coupe G899965 10G-Q4-1434
http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s144/vegas_paul/graciestude_edited.jpg

N8N
11-09-2008, 10:13 AM
rather than buy the vendor boots, I would recommend using aftermarket poly ones. Energy Suspension 9-13101G
(pair) or 9-13107G (set of 12) were recommended to me, and appear to be equivalent to the ones being sold by the vendors. Reason I say this is that I had some that I bought from a vendor swell up and split after only a couple years of light use; I expect the poly to last a good long time.

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

chrysleritis
03-15-2010, 07:05 PM
Hey, how'd the dropping the oil pan work out for you in terms of eliminating the oil leaks? I'm in the middle of doing this on my '50 business coupe, and I'm optimistic that it will help with the oozing. But I too am having difficulty with the center tie rod removal. It is towards the back of the pan on the 1950, but same idea. Give me a little hope, 'cause the pickle forking isn't going too well.