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tstclr
11-20-2006, 07:01 AM
Can anyone tell me of a "common" master cylinder that is a direct swap for the dual/no power unit on my 64 Daytona? I suspect I am going to need a new one and would like to get one locally. It looks alot like the MC I had on my 69 Coronet but would like to be sure.
Thanks!
Todd


63 Lark 2dr Sedan
64 Daytona 4dr Sedan

tstclr
11-20-2006, 06:38 PM
Hey Wes,
This one was on the Studebaker Swap website. It was originally listed at something like $2300 and the price kept going down. I wouldnt mind that MC number if you dont mind. My "old car savvy" mechanic called in sick today so we didnt get to the gov't mandated safety inspection. Another surprise at our DMV-all cars over 20 years old don't get the ownership changed over unless you provide an appraisal! Wha? Luckily, any licensed automotive dealer can do the appraisal and since I work at a GM dealer...:) Today my clean up department gave her a cosmetic once over (now it's a 10 footer instead of a 20 footer!). It sure attracted a lot of attention sitting in the shop! When I started it up one of the guys who was standing at the rear of the car said "It sounds like an 8". That's what you get when you are around Malibu's and Cobalts all day..

Todd


63 Lark 2dr Sedan
64 Daytona 4dr Sedan

prager
11-20-2006, 06:43 PM
Todd you wild man!!! When did you get the Daytona? Was it on e-bay? I thought I saw one on there..Anyhow..is your garage ready for this flood of Studes???..Wes

Still working to restore my 62 Lark in South Bend, Indiana

prager
11-20-2006, 06:47 PM
Todd, sorry to ignore you're question...I assume you're looking for a dual m.c.? I used a Chrysler, or Jeep...Can't remember which, but would be happy to look in my paperwork to find a number if you need..

Still working to restore my 62 Lark in South Bend, Indiana

BRUCESTUDE
11-21-2006, 12:53 PM
I bought one from one of the Stude vendors-fit like a glove.

sbca96
11-22-2006, 01:15 AM
http://patriot.net/~jonroq/rjtechx.html#BRAKES

This might help. Maybe.

Tom

'63 Avanti, zinc plated drilled & slotted 03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, soon: 97 Z28 T-56 6-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves, 'R3' 276 cam, Edelbrock AFB Carb, GM HEI distributor, 8.8mm plug wires

64V-K7
11-22-2006, 07:02 AM
Sorry, but that link isn't working right now. I changed servers and a lot of things are offline right now..

sbca96
11-22-2006, 12:05 PM
Was working last night when I posted it (I always check first), and it
is working now. Here is the contents of two that might help :

Nov 2004
/////what are the options for a dual M/C on a '65 Cruiser?

It has to be a four bolt mount unit unlike the typical Lark setup/////
-----------------------------
On the '64 Marshal I have here, I used a '71 MOPAR disc brake master
cylinder. bolted right up / fits and works fine.
----------------------------
Mid 70's Mopar has the 4 bolt mount. Make sure to check the linkage between
the M/C and the pedal!!!

----------------------------
71 Cuda model brake MC
---------------------------
Check April 2001 Turning Wheels, in the Co-operator section


==========

///////////Went to install the Mopar dual M/C on that disk brake '65 Cruiser and
the "plunger" depth is a lot deeper (3/4" or so) in the Stude single M/C
as compared to the Mopar unit.

I'm considering drilling out the Mopar unit to an equivalent depth. I
know that this has been done with other applications but this one??

Adjusting the throw on the booster is out because the threads are
apparently jammed. The two times that I attempted to do so on Lark
boosters, the end nut simply snapped off.

What duz youse think??//////////
-----------------------
If you do elect to drill the hole in the plunger deeper, please
disassamble the M/C and make sure beforehand that you won't wind up
drilling into a pre-existing hole, or otherwise weakening the plunger.
Also, if you do this, bye-bye warranty on the M/C!

And if someone else ever has to work on it, they are going to have a
hard time finding a replacement M/C with the same plunger depth.

Does the push rod come out of the booster? Maybe a little bench work
on it is in order.

If I were doing this job, I'd prefer to modify the push rod in the
booster, rather than monkey with the M/C.

------------------------
We've done this before without any ill effects. Admittedly, not the
best option.



> And if someone else ever has to work on it, they are going to have a
> hard time finding a replacement M/C with the same plunger depth.
>
> Does the push rod come out of the booster? Maybe a little bench work
> on it is in order.
>

I have had 'em come out on other boosters but this is the Avanti style
unit and it does not want to come out..


> If I were doing this job, I'd prefer to modify the push rod in the
> booster, rather than monkey with the M/C.
>

That's all well and good but for that to happen, it cannot be in the
booster if some heat is gonna be applied.
--------------------------
I agree with Gord on this one. The rod on the booster should come out
and I'd use relatively low heat (propane torch) to try to get it
loose. On the Stude disc brake cars I have made the swap on, I used a
'71 Mopar disc brake M/C and did not have any length issues.
-----------------------------
This is a four bolt master cylinder and supposedly is for a '71 Mopar
(Cuda I believe) and the difference between it and the stude unit is
nearly an inch. I didn't make an exact comparison but is is substantial.

The adjustment in the booster is seized and the plunger don't wanna come
out of the booster for surgery...

What M/C's did Avanti use in the 1970's for the Dunlop setup???

My haid hoits...
--------------------------------
In that whole list, I don't recall what they used for '66-71 avanti's...

JT
-------------------------------
Tom

tstclr
11-22-2006, 04:33 PM
Still no luck on an exact replacement. My local parts guy says 3 weeks to get one. They are checking on a MOPAR. IIRC, the MC on a standard 4 wheel drum brake 69 Roadrunner looks the same as the one on my 64 Daytona. They are checking on availability for it. If I order from SASCO etc I'm going to have to wait about the same time, pay customs, U.S exchange etc etc. I really want to get the car on the road asap. The boss won't mind the car here for a few more days but after that... Anyone else know of a direct bolt on that doesn't require me to play with the plunger etc?
Thanks!
Todd


63 Lark 2dr Sedan
64 Daytona 4dr Sedan

StudeRich
11-22-2006, 06:51 PM
Be carefull here Todd! A master BRAKE cylinder is not something you want to "GUESS" on it being the same!:( I have never seen anything except AMC ones that will work, two IMPORTANT things come to mind.

(1) Doesn't a '69 MoPar have Disc brakes? That's about the time other Co's finally came out with them I think. You don't want a Disc Brake M/C on your Drum brake car because of the residual valve thing, for one. (drum brakes need them)

(2) Most all other makes except AMC have the lines to the fender, not the engine like you need. I think what you want is a '75-'76 AMC Pacer, Gremlin or Matador with drum brakes. Hope this helps, Rich. Red=REVISED ! :)

StudeRich
Studebakers Northwest
Ferndale, WA

tstclr
11-23-2006, 07:00 AM
Thanks Rich. The 69 Roadrunner was available with drum brakes. I used that MC on my drum braked 58 Plymouth years ago. I'll check into the AMC unit.
Todd


63 Lark 2dr Sedan
64 Daytona 4dr Sedan

dictator27
11-23-2006, 12:24 PM
Todd
When the m/c on my 64 commander quit I replaced it with one from a 72 AMC Ambassador - direct bolt on.

Terry