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azopelnut
11-19-2006, 08:44 PM
I recently acquired a 1956 Power Hawk with a 259 V8. The car has sat outside (in the desert) for 25 years so it needs total restoration. I removed the distributor to have it rebuilt but now I can't get it back in. The engine has not been moved since the distributor was removed so the alignment is the same as it was upon removal.It goes in about half way and ten stops. I have tried to rotate it distributor but can't get iall the way in.
Any tips on getting that distributor back in???

StudeRich
11-19-2006, 10:02 PM
Azopelnut; Try pointing the rotor a little bit counterclockwise of where you want it to end up (you DO know where it was right?) then while holding it down, have someone crank the engine untill it drops into the oil pump drive gear on the camshaft. You can turn the eng. from under the hood (IF IT'S IN NEUTRAL) with a jumper wire (or remote starter switch) from the batt. side of the Solenoid to the small "Start" term. on the Sol. Red/White wire.

StudeRich
Studebakers Northwest
Ferndale, WA

StudeRich
11-19-2006, 10:02 PM
Azopelnut; Try pointing the rotor a little bit counterclockwise of where you want it to end up (you DO know where it was right?) then while holding it down, have someone crank the engine untill it drops into the oil pump drive gear on the camshaft. You can turn the eng. from under the hood (IF IT'S IN NEUTRAL) with a jumper wire (or remote starter switch) from the batt. side of the Solenoid to the small "Start" term. on the Sol. Red/White wire.

StudeRich
Studebakers Northwest
Ferndale, WA

azopelnut
11-19-2006, 10:15 PM
Thanks StudeRich and Hot wheels.
StudeRich when i removed the distributor the rotor was pointing to the number 4 spark wire (second cylinder on the passenger side). I am a little worried about moving the crank and messing up the timing.

azopelnut
11-19-2006, 10:15 PM
Thanks StudeRich and Hot wheels.
StudeRich when i removed the distributor the rotor was pointing to the number 4 spark wire (second cylinder on the passenger side). I am a little worried about moving the crank and messing up the timing.

StudeRich
11-19-2006, 10:47 PM
That is why I said: point it correct and after aligning with the hole in the block down nearer to the oil pump, and pushing down and holding it should drop to about and inch or 1 1/2 inch from the block. When it does that the timing is already locked into the Cam, you are just matching it to the oil pump gear. Do not touch the Rotor, just let it turn push on the case.

If that does not work it's not too much harder to find Top Dead center; both valves on #1 (Left front) Closed, timing mark on UDC mark and Rotor to # 1 or set it untill it is.

StudeRich
Studebakers Northwest
Ferndale, WA

StudeRich
11-19-2006, 10:47 PM
That is why I said: point it correct and after aligning with the hole in the block down nearer to the oil pump, and pushing down and holding it should drop to about and inch or 1 1/2 inch from the block. When it does that the timing is already locked into the Cam, you are just matching it to the oil pump gear. Do not touch the Rotor, just let it turn push on the case.

If that does not work it's not too much harder to find Top Dead center; both valves on #1 (Left front) Closed, timing mark on UDC mark and Rotor to # 1 or set it untill it is.

StudeRich
Studebakers Northwest
Ferndale, WA

bams50
11-20-2006, 04:28 AM
When you do get it down you will have to make sure it's right before you try to start it: This is done by getting #1 piston at TDC as mentioned above and then making sure the rotor is pointed at the #1 spot in the cap.

Do this carefully and check it a couple times, as it's easy to misread; and if it's not exactly on it'll run terrible [xx(]

Good luck!

Robert K. Andrews Owner- IoMT (Island of Misfit Toys!)
Parish, central NY 13131
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2358680/1

bams50
11-20-2006, 04:28 AM
When you do get it down you will have to make sure it's right before you try to start it: This is done by getting #1 piston at TDC as mentioned above and then making sure the rotor is pointed at the #1 spot in the cap.

Do this carefully and check it a couple times, as it's easy to misread; and if it's not exactly on it'll run terrible [xx(]

Good luck!

Robert K. Andrews Owner- IoMT (Island of Misfit Toys!)
Parish, central NY 13131
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2358680/1

Chicken Hawk
11-20-2006, 08:40 AM
You said it only goes down about HALF way. Is this right or is it only about a 1/4" from being all the way down? If it is only half way, then you are not getting the tip of the shaft into the hole in the block.

Ted


quote:Originally posted by azopelnut

. . .It goes in about half way and ten stops.

Chicken Hawk
11-20-2006, 08:40 AM
You said it only goes down about HALF way. Is this right or is it only about a 1/4" from being all the way down? If it is only half way, then you are not getting the tip of the shaft into the hole in the block.

Ted


quote:Originally posted by azopelnut

. . .It goes in about half way and ten stops.

azopelnut
11-20-2006, 10:02 AM
Its about four inches from being seated. I will try "hotwheels" suggestion with a flashlight to see what I am hitting on.

azopelnut
11-20-2006, 10:02 AM
Its about four inches from being seated. I will try "hotwheels" suggestion with a flashlight to see what I am hitting on.

azopelnut
11-20-2006, 10:36 PM
Thanks for all the help, laying on top of the engine and looking down the shaft did help, It drop in with a little help

azopelnut
11-20-2006, 10:36 PM
Thanks for all the help, laying on top of the engine and looking down the shaft did help, It drop in with a little help