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mjeansonne
11-01-2008, 04:56 PM
My daughter started to back out her 62 Hawk, when it just died... Thought it may be the points, so I changed them. Turned out to be a fuel problem. The fuel pump didn't seem to be working. So I purchased a new pump at O'Reilly Auto Parts and still no fuel delivery. Blew through the supply hose from the tank and could hear bubbles. Did I get a fuel pump that was bad? When I got the pump I activated the pump lever and didn't feel any suction from the "in" inlet. Any ideas? My daughter is 16 and is wanting her car back on the road!!!





Laisez le bon temps roulez avec un Studebaker

Tom B
11-01-2008, 05:50 PM
This is a good situation in which to teach patience.

Take your pump back to O'Reilly, show them the no suck, and ask for a new pump.

Try to find (anywhere) a used OM Carter and rebuild it. Only the pumps made to work on Studebakers really work well.

[img=left]http://www.alink.com/personal/tbredehoft/Avatar1.jpg[/img=left]
Tom Bredehoft
'53 Commander Coupe (since 1959)
'55 President (6H Y6) State Sedan
(Under Construction 528 hrs.)
'05 Legacy Ltd Wagon
All Indiana built cars

stall
11-06-2008, 10:15 AM
Lets see, 16 year old daughter, patience , doesnt compute.

Seriously she is lucky to have parents that are showing her that different is good and I'll bet also very appealing to her peers. Sixteen is an age when you explore, she's lucky that your showing her that theres a reason that a box of crayons contains 64 colors. [8D] very cool on your part

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u139/awaynow8624/Studebakerbest-2.jpg

mjeansonne
11-06-2008, 11:40 AM
Yep, she has been pretty patient already. The car sat at the body man for almost 3 years!!! In Louisiana, you can drive at 15, if you have completed Driver's Education, which she did. She turns 17 in a month, so she has been pretty patient thus far. Still having a problem with the fuel pump. I am pretty close to just getting an electric pump till I can find a rebuildable Carter... if anyone has a Carter cheap, let me know.



Laisez le bon temps roulez avec un Studebaker

N8N
11-06-2008, 05:43 PM
Tom Karkiewicz has core pumps that look pretty decent. was just looking through his selection a few hours ago (typing this from hotel room in Burnham - near Reedsville) it'll cost you probably almost as much to buy a kit and filter for an original pump than another Airtex but I really do believe that the original Carters are better. For that car I believe that you want a metal bowl pump - I *think* the glass bowl was discontinued after '61. I don't have my parts books here to check. Look at the frame mount behind the fuel pump - if it has a little "notch" in it near where the outlet fitting sits, it used a metal bowl pump.

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

StudeRich
11-07-2008, 02:59 AM
Nate: FYI the Engine Mount Bracket you are familiar with seeing on JDP's R Series engined cars with the smashed corner is there only on R series cars, for the Big bowl no filter Carter Super Pump to clear!

The glass bowl was used on Hawks, the metal on Larks, you just need to pay attention to the clocking of the lower pump half for fitting direction and clearance.

http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa221/studerich/My64Daytona.jpg
StudeRich at Studebakers Northwest -Ferndale,WA

N8N
11-07-2008, 07:17 AM
Rich,

I know what you're talking about, but if you look at an early Hawk vs. a GT, there is a smaller notch even on the standard engine cars for the outlet fitting of the metal bowl fuel pump to clear. The odd thing is there is no difference in part number between the early and late engine mount brackets, but there is definitely a physical difference... if you put a metal bowl fuel pump in an earlier C-K it will kiss the bracket.

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

StudeRich
11-07-2008, 07:54 PM
The reason the Metal Bowl Fuel Pump hits, is that it is for a Lark, but it may be able to be re-clocked!

I get it on the frame Bracket Nate, it is odd they never changed the part number, just snuck it in there maybe, without admitting their (mistake?)! Lol!

For anyone else's Info; the '63-'64 GT Hawks with Jet Thrust Engine used picture # 101-9 1558886 Left Engine Mount Frame Bracket per Jet Thrust Section of the Chassis Parts Catalog Pg. 517. Standard Hawks use the 532379 Bracket.
I have seen some of these that obviously were modified in house, by heating and smashing the corner to make the new JT Bracket!



http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa221/studerich/My64Daytona.jpg
StudeRich at Studebakers Northwest -Ferndale,WA

5brown1
11-08-2008, 09:10 AM
Tom B
Does your comment on only pumps made for Studebakers work well on Studebakers apply to the 283 V8s? Do you know if the correct Carter pump for a 1966 283 is M4913?
Thanks
Steve

Tom B
11-08-2008, 09:23 AM
5brown1: "Does your comment on only pumps made for Studebakers work well on Studebakers apply to the 283 V8s?"

Sorry, my knowledge is limited to the '50s era Studebakers.

Perhaps others can answer your question.

[img=left]http://www.alink.com/personal/tbredehoft/Avatar1.jpg[/img=left]
Tom Bredehoft
'53 Commander Coupe (since 1959)
'55 President (6H Y6) State Sedan
(Under Construction 540 hrs.)
'05 Legacy Ltd Wagon
All Indiana built cars

Dan Timberlake
11-08-2008, 09:50 AM
Seems like When vehicles have glass bowls or clear fuel filters there are occasions I'm glad they've had them.
A fuel pressure gage at the carb inlet is best of all

N8N
11-08-2008, 10:00 AM
quote:Originally posted by 5brown1

Tom B
Does your comment on only pumps made for Studebakers work well on Studebakers apply to the 283 V8s? Do you know if the correct Carter pump for a 1966 283 is M4913?
Thanks
Steve


According to the copy of the AEA tuneup charts that someone was nice enough to post a while back, the correct pump for a '66 283 is an AC 6942. If you have an old, rebuildable style pump for anything I wouldn't throw it out, even if you are just going to unload it at the next swap meet. I far prefer them to the new, crimped-together, non-serviceable types, simply because if something bad happens on the road I have a chance in heck of repairing whatever the problem is.

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

barnlark
11-08-2008, 10:16 AM
Originally posted by Tom B
" Only the pumps made to work on Studebakers really work well."

Not so sure about that, Tom. I have posted this before, but I had a brand new stock pump die on me and replaced it with one I bought from Ingvar Vik. His email is usually in TW. It is machined for your Studebaker and puts out a much better psi. Put 2K miles on it so far and never had a problem. Very reliable, even on hot summer days.



http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh48/newshooter44/DSCN1253_2.jpg

mjeansonne
11-08-2008, 04:11 PM
I got an airtex pump from the parts house and it was successful! She's back on the road again. She works at the local Chevrolet/Cadillac Dealership after school. She brought the Hawk to work for the first time Wednesday. Her shirt buttons were popping she was so proud of that car!! It was great to see a 1962 Studebaker Hawk surrounded by new Chevys and Caddys. The new car salesman were around the Hawk like bees around honey! Lots of ooohhhs and aaahhhs! It did her good.



Laisez le bon temps roulez avec un Studebaker

StudeRich
11-08-2008, 07:15 PM
Steve; if you need a '65-'66 283 V-8 Fuel Pump the correct 1564498 Pump is available at SASCO in South Bend for $54.30 ! [^]
God Bless America, AND SASCO! [^] [^]

My Son Dave (StudeDave57) has tried everything on his '65 Cruiser, even going to the GM Dealer to try and order it, all efforts to find the correct one have failed. It seams that GM only used it some rare Commercial Engines or Trucks and have discontinued it, because when found by GM Part number, it does not come up as available, it has been discontinued. All of the Parts Store small block pumps have fittings that hit the frame.
He has successfully used the correct one from SASCO with no problems yet, but I expect down the road. the alcohol in the fuel will eventually eat the diaphragm, at which time it would be a good idea to have the Rebuild Kit on hand, since they ARE rebuildable.


quote:Originally posted by 5brown1

Tom B
Does your comment on only pumps made for Studebakers work well on Studebakers apply to the 283 V8s? Do you know if the correct Carter pump for a 1966 283 is M4913?

http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa221/studerich/My64Daytona.jpg
StudeRich at Studebakers Northwest -Ferndale,WA

JimmieD
11-09-2008, 12:48 PM
In case of a NLA pump that just can't be sourced there's another trick that can work. Purchase an electric pump and place it close to fuel tank. Pumps develop far more head pressure than suction pressure. Leave the old mechanical pump in place. Often this will allow a good high pressure fuel flow that is then metered by the mechanical pump. Though mechanical pump can't provide the needed pressure it can meter the fuel delivery to help avoid flooding or over-pressurization of carb inlet needle.

If that fails to work then it's easy to fab up or buy a block off plate for mechanical pump and you would have had to install electric and block off plate anyway. Where electric pump pressures exceed carb needs [without mechanical in place to meter presure] pressure regulators are available or a simple inline valve can modulate pressure by restricting flow.

Beware that some e-Pay 'Holley' fuel pressure regulators are not that at all, but are junk Chinese copies. Best to buy from a reputable vendor.