To weld, or not to weld.

[madmike]

Thought I'd throw this out for general opinion:

Since I have the rear quarters off of the 53k, I'm considering eliminating the little metal filler strip at the top of the quarter, & replacing it with a welded bead and filling and smoothing the top of the quarter. As a matter of fact I'm considering welding the quarter (in addition to bolting) back on altogether. I realize that it'll be a permanent process, but it's not like I'll be able to take the car to maaco to get the quarter repaired via replacement if I was to get hit anyway. Thoughts?

Don't talk about what you are going to do,... talk about what you have DONE.

[52-fan]

If it was mine I would not weld it, but it's your car. If you sell the car later things like welding and filling factory seams put off some people. If you plan to keep the car forever no one needs to decide but you.


1952 Champion Starlight, 1962 Daytona, both w/overdrive.Searcy,Arkansas
"I may be lazy, but I'm not shiftless."

[Studeman]

Personally, I wouldn't weld it on. I'd use a modern metal-bonding adhesive such as FUSOR, or "door skin adhesive"(epoxy)... and then use regular body-fillers to smooth the seams.
In this way, it will definitely be strong enough... but still be removable later on if the inevitable happens. (Just get out the propane torch and heat the seam and it will separate)



Specializing in Studebaker Restoration

[Dick Steinkamp]

If you do it, make sure you have all the body panels aligned and gaps set before hand. The quarter is able to adjust a little.

Dick Steinkamp
Bellingham, WA

[sweetolbob]

Mike - I did that on 54K. I tacked the quarter to the body to stabilize the area and filled initially with glass filled resin. I then finished with normal body products. I may pay in the future but it looks great. I don't know why you can't weld the area and finish, as usual. The body shop can always locate the joint with a scotchbrite roloc and use a 1/16 in. high speed wheel to seperate the weld. I don't see why the fender is irreversably ruined.Bob

P.S. I was typing my reply while Studeman was suggesting FUZOR adhesive. I've used it a couple of places on 54K where I didn't want to straighten welds and it is impressive material. Just be sure it's fresh because it's expensive and frustrating when it won't set. But I did some lap peel tests with the stuff and it's excellent. I know they bond panels on some new vehicles with it.

[Flashback]

I assume you are building a modified, Right?
In that case there are pros and cons either way for welding.
I did it on a modified sedan. On my original coupe, I would
kill, if some tried to weld it

Tex E. Grier

[madmike]

the reason for the welding idea is to make sure that gap where I eliminate the metal filler strip won't crack from any flex issues.

to answer flashback, (and those who don't know) This car is definitely a modified, and the amount of customization to the sheet metal would deter almost (I did say almost) anyone from wanting to convert it back to stock should I sell it.

Bottom line is: I want to be sure that there will be no panel shift from driving the thing that'll later come back and haunt me in that area.

Don't talk about what you are going to do,... talk about what you have DONE.

[bondobilly]

We did it with our Hawk, but used body filler....... please no nasty responses..........

As far as I am concerned it makes the car look much better. My body man used some kind of adhesvive and then the filler. In the event of an accident he said all it would take is the typical removal steps and the lift up the rear quarter to break the seam.

BG