Heat riser

[studelover]

I installed my heat riser on the passenger side of the system, I have this strange feeling that I installed it wrong because the temp gauge reads at 190 or above on cool days. If I just had a engine rebuild should the temp be high? I have new water pump and radiator(recore) I think the water is curculating I felt the lower hose and it apperas warm. I drove it to a show sunday and it ran fine however I kept my eye on the temp. No matter how high it goes the radiator has nere boiled over or leaked out the over flow.

Studebakers forever!

[showbizkid]

There was a thread a while back about the repro heat valves having to be trimmed to clear the manifold opening in order to open fully. Did you operate it by hand after installation to make sure the butterfly can move freely?


[img=left]http://members.cox.net/clarknovak/lark.gif[/img=left]

Clark in San Diego
'63 F2/Lark Standard

http://studeblogger.blogspot.com

https://www.studebakersandiego.com

[studelover]

I am using my original, yes it does move freely. I am wondering if I have it in backwards

Studebakers forever!

[JDP]

It's says "top" on the flange.

JDP/Maryland
"I'm a great believer in luck and I find the harder I work, the more I have of it."
Thomas Jefferson

[Dwain G.]

The weighted arm should be up on a cold engine, then move downward through its full range of travel as the engine warms.


Dwain G.

[studelover]

I have taken a pic of it, it looks like it's right however I would like to make sure would you all take a look[^]

Studebakers forever!

[52-fan]

I hope the picture is clearer to somebody. On my screen it is washed out and I can not see which way the valve is mounted.


1952 Champion Starlight, 1962 Daytona, both w/overdrive.Searcy,Arkansas
"I may be lazy, but I'm not shiftless."

[GTtim]

You can disconnect the spring by sliding it off the post on the moveable part. The valve should open by the weight of the counterweight. With it open this way you can start the car and the exhaust pulses will feel equal at both tailpipes. The thermostatic spring holds the valve closed until the engine compartment gets very hot. Exhaust gasses pushing on the off-center valve face tend to force the valve open if it operates freely. The valve shouldn't be sticky. If the valve isn't open the passenger side will only have a small amount of exhaust coming from it.
You can also just leave the valve open, the engine doesn't really need it unless you are starting the car when the temperature is close to freezing. It is just a device to warm the carb and intake to prevent carburetor icing in cold temperatures. Leaving it open or removing it all together will help the intake and carburetor stay a bit cooler, which is a good thing especially with today's gas.

Tim K.
'64 R2 GT Hawk

[studelover]

I have a better pic, when it's cold(engine)the weight is up as the engine gets warm it goes down I am hoping that it opens at that point I guess the only way to know is to remove it. The heat riser does not look like the one on my other hawk. This is why I have all these questions.

Studebakers forever!

[52-fan]

One of the reasons that I had trouble making out what was in your first picture was that this heat riser does look a lot different than the ones I am familiar with. I wonder how many Studes used these?


1952 Champion Starlight, 1962 Daytona, both w/overdrive.Searcy,Arkansas
"I may be lazy, but I'm not shiftless."

[StudeRich]

It is a replacement, the only one available now, so it does not have the familiar hat shaped counterweight like a original Studebaker heat riser does. The counterweight should still fall FORWARD like the original by it's weight when the the spring warms up, if you have it installed correctly.

StudeRich
Studebakers Northwest
Ferndale, WA

[farmhawk]

You could put a heat source on it, like a small propane torch and see which way it opens. If you have a modern carb with an electric choke you really don't need it at all.

Wayen K.
Libby, MT
61 Hawk (On the road, FINALLY)