Replace Valves with Rebuild?

[riversidevw]

My relatively low mileage '58 289 is being rebuilt, mostly because of a head gasket leak after long storage. I'm using an upgraded (R1+) cam and valve springs, cupped pistons with a bit higher compression. I was planning to use Phil's stainless valves.

The shop manager says that my original valves will be "just fine" with a bit of "cleaning up".

Does that seem like sound advice? Or is it short-sighted to save a couple of hundred dollars on valves in the middle of a several thousand dollar rebuild?

[DEEPNHOCK]

Sounds like 'fair' advice to me.
As long as the seat is decent (within spec's) and the shaft is not worn.. It's usually the guides that show the most wear.
Remember. He's done a lot of heads.
Hopefully he is looking out for your best interest.
For street use, I'd listen to your engine guy.
Just an opinion.
Jeff[8D]

quote:Originally posted by riversidevw

My relatively low mileage '58 289 is being rebuilt, mostly because of a head gasket leak after long storage. I'm using an upgraded (R1+) cam and valve springs, cupped pistons with a bit higher compression. I was planning to use Phil's stainless valves.

The shop manager says that my original valves will be "just fine" with a bit of "cleaning up".

Does that seem like sound advice? Or is it short-sighted to save a couple of hundred dollars on valves in the middle of a several thousand dollar rebuild?

[Mike Van Veghten]

Two things -

1. The stems should be od honed to make sure they are straight, round and true. I'm talking to .000" digits here...minimum.

2. The "margin" (the small area between the 45 degree seat angle and the head face, should be .040" minimum (NEW...seat angle, finished). NO....sharp edges..!

If your valves meet these two items...clean them, gring new seat angle and remove the same amount (measured from the valve centerline) from the valve tip.

Mike