View Full Version : What happens when the dowels are missing

11-15-2006, 03:03 PM
Pulled the torque converter off the engine this AM. Thought you'd enjoy seeing what I found! Whoever did transmission work on this car left out the bellhousing dowels, and here's the result:

Nice, huh?

Yeah, it's cracked a little...


Well, you guys sure diagnosed it right from the beginning! ;)


Clark in San Diego
'63 F2/Lark Standard

11-15-2006, 06:12 PM
quote:Originally posted by hotwheels63r2

You found your 'rod knock' !! I'd reseal and repaint your engine. No need to rebuild once you replace this 20 dollar part.

I wish! But it's also got 3/8" of crank endplay. Gotta take care of that [xx(]


Clark in San Diego
'63 F2/Lark Standard

11-15-2006, 06:15 PM
Hmmmmmmm.... Looks like whoever "aligned" the bellhousing also set the crankshaft end play[xx(]

Miscreant adrift in
the BerStuda Triangle!!

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe

11-15-2006, 08:21 PM
I'll bet that if you take those last six nuts loose, you'll find a crack or two under there, too!

StudeDave [8D]
V/P San Diego County SDC
San Diego, Ca

'54 Commander 4dr 'Ruby'
'57 Parkview (it's a 2dr wagon...) 'Betsy'
'57 Commander 2dr 'Baby'
'57 Champion 2dr 'Jewel'
'58 Packard sedan 'Cleo'
'65 Cruiser 'Sweet Pea'

11-15-2006, 09:56 PM
quote:Originally posted by hotwheels63r2

How did this engine run?

It actually ran OK (above idle). At idle, it sounded like a bag of bolts in a washing machine :D


Clark in San Diego
'63 F2/Lark Standard

11-16-2006, 12:18 PM
Hey Clark,

We had a guy bring his Avanti in after paying a large sum of money to have someone rebuild the engine. It sounded like the decription you described. We pulled stuff off the front of engine sos to get to the crank and you could manually move it back and forth. Pulled engine out, put it on the engine stand, took pullies and hub off, removed timing case cover, removed crank gear,installed shims according to spec. reassembled, reinstalled, fired it up before water pump manifold and related components were reinstalled, no noise, good compression, good oil pressure, problem solved. Took about 4 hours from 5 to 9pm as boss didn't want shop tied up during the day. He was desparate and refused to take it back to the guy who'd rebuilt engine.
I'd address the things others have posted before tearing down what may be an otherwize sound engine. Anyone who has a junk Baker engine could surely send ya a couple of dowel pins to try, so you could start the dial in process.
Thanks for leting me share,

11-16-2006, 02:51 PM
Just go to your nearest nut and bolt store and buy 11/32" dowel pins 1" long. I have taken Stude valves and cut the stems and used them in an emergency.

11-16-2006, 04:51 PM
On the dowel topic, someone posted drill and reamer sizes for installing oversized dowels. Could not find the info with the search feature. What were the sizes? Thanks,

Darryl C. Lewallen Clarkesville, Ga.

11-16-2006, 04:52 PM
yup... might want to check it with a dial indicator just to make sure it is OK. if not, you can use 3/8" dowel pins after reaming the holes oversize. If you're near me, I have both 11/32 and 3/8" reams for this purpose but you can get them from Grainger if not.


55 Commander Starlight

11-17-2006, 12:08 PM
I agree, definately check the alignment. Chances are there's a reason
that the dowel pins were excluded - they didnt line up! I would bet
the bellhousing is a match to a different engine. I cant imagine one
putting a bellhousing on without dowel pins, every manufacturer uses
them - its not a Studebaker only (why they do that?) kinda thing!


'63 Avanti, zinc plated drilled & slotted 03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, soon: 97 Z28 T-56 6-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves, 'R3' 276 cam, Edelbrock AFB Carb, GM HEI distributor, 8.8mm plug wires