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dallastx75208
11-13-2006, 08:33 PM
How have any of you put in a modern cd player in a 62 hawk? I do not want to get rid of the existing radio and would like to keep the dash as is. What have you done?

johnesmonde
11-13-2006, 09:16 PM
Good question. I have the same problem and intend to build an under dash enclosure to hold a Clarion that will not fit in the glove box. An even bigger problem is where to put speakers without cutting. My Hawk has a speaker opening in the centre of the rear package shelf. A sound shop suggested I use only one rear speaker there and hook up either right or left. They suggested I put one front speaker in the dash under the existing Stude radio and build another into the under-dash enclosure I am devising for the stereo unit.I too would would appreciate other options.

Regards,
John

John Esmonde
Holland Landing, Ontario
Canada
'62 Hawk
'30 Chev Coach

johnesmonde
11-13-2006, 09:16 PM
Good question. I have the same problem and intend to build an under dash enclosure to hold a Clarion that will not fit in the glove box. An even bigger problem is where to put speakers without cutting. My Hawk has a speaker opening in the centre of the rear package shelf. A sound shop suggested I use only one rear speaker there and hook up either right or left. They suggested I put one front speaker in the dash under the existing Stude radio and build another into the under-dash enclosure I am devising for the stereo unit.I too would would appreciate other options.

Regards,
John

John Esmonde
Holland Landing, Ontario
Canada
'62 Hawk
'30 Chev Coach

JDP
11-13-2006, 09:26 PM
Try the "secret stereo":

http://www.customrodder.com/tech/0407cr_custom_autosound_secret_audio_system/

http://stude.com/sig.jpg
JDP
Arnold Md.
Studebaker On The Net
http://stude.com
My Ebay Items
http://www.stude.com/EBAY/

64 Daytona HT
63 R2 4 speed GT Hawk
63 Avanti R1/AC
63 Lark 2 dr.
62 Lark 2 door
60 Lark convert
60 Hawk
59 4E Truck
56 truck
55 Starlight
53 Starlight
52 Starlight
52 Starliner
51 Commander

JDP
11-13-2006, 09:26 PM
Try the "secret stereo":

http://www.customrodder.com/tech/0407cr_custom_autosound_secret_audio_system/

http://stude.com/sig.jpg
JDP
Arnold Md.
Studebaker On The Net
http://stude.com
My Ebay Items
http://www.stude.com/EBAY/

64 Daytona HT
63 R2 4 speed GT Hawk
63 Avanti R1/AC
63 Lark 2 dr.
62 Lark 2 door
60 Lark convert
60 Hawk
59 4E Truck
56 truck
55 Starlight
53 Starlight
52 Starlight
52 Starliner
51 Commander

gregwbl
11-16-2006, 06:43 PM
We can convert your original radio to AM/FM Stereo with inputs for portable CD, cassette, i-pod, XM radio, etc. We also carry high quality replacement speakers that fit in the old cars including the rare 4x8 ovals used in some studebakers. See our web site

www.turnswitch.com

gregwbl
11-16-2006, 06:43 PM
We can convert your original radio to AM/FM Stereo with inputs for portable CD, cassette, i-pod, XM radio, etc. We also carry high quality replacement speakers that fit in the old cars including the rare 4x8 ovals used in some studebakers. See our web site

www.turnswitch.com

Alan
11-16-2006, 07:01 PM
There is also a ribbon speaker that flush mounts so you don't have to cut any holes.

Alan
11-16-2006, 07:01 PM
There is also a ribbon speaker that flush mounts so you don't have to cut any holes.

Dick Steinkamp
11-16-2006, 07:16 PM
I put the stereo in the glove box and used the Sony wired remote mounted unobtrusively between the bucket seats.

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-uVInDwwcQu0/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?search=wired+remote&i=158RMX4S



http://static.flickr.com/100/292046667_cc1661ba0e_m.jpg

Dick Steinkamp
11-16-2006, 07:16 PM
I put the stereo in the glove box and used the Sony wired remote mounted unobtrusively between the bucket seats.

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-uVInDwwcQu0/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?search=wired+remote&i=158RMX4S



http://static.flickr.com/100/292046667_cc1661ba0e_m.jpg

Guido
11-16-2006, 07:31 PM
Dick,

I grew up less than 5 miles from the main office of Crutchfield.

Gary

http://thumb14.webshots.net/t/53/453/1/21/36/2964121360097493054pVJTFL_th.jpghttp://thumb14.webshots.net/t/57/757/2/88/4/2023288040097493054SEKowB_th.jpghttp://thumb14.webshots.net/t/18/19/8/37/21/2050837210097493054IYBJJL_th.jpghttp://thumb14.webshots.net/t/59/559/1/43/57/2876143570097493054jKVhDw_th.jpghttp://thumb14.webshots.net/t/22/22/0/2/68/2589002680097493054ftBuBw_th.jpghttp://thumb14.webshots.net/t/28/28/8/30/30/2075830300097493054aSSlFv_th.jpghttp://thumb14.webshots.net/t/59/459/2/23/86/2067223860097493054YoeGMx_th.jpghttp://thumb14.webshots.net/t/28/28/5/18/33/2537518330097493054OgEKcN_th.jpg
Guido Salvage - "Where rust is beautiful"

Studebaker horse drawn buggy; 1946 M-16 fire truck; 1948 M-16 grain truck; 1949 2R16A grain truck; 1949 2R17A fire truck; 1950 2R5 pickup; 1952 2R17A grain truck; 1952 Packard 200 4 door; 1955 E-38 grain truck; 1957 3E-40 flatbed; 1961 6E-28 grain truck; 1962 7E-13D 4x4 rack truck; 1962 7E-7 Champ pickup; 1962 GT Hawk 4 speed; 1963 8E-28 flatbed; 1964 Avanti R2 4 speed; 1964 Cruiser and various other "treasures".

Hiding and preserving Studebakers in Richmond, Goochland & Louisa, Va.

Guido
11-16-2006, 07:31 PM
Dick,

I grew up less than 5 miles from the main office of Crutchfield.

Gary

http://thumb14.webshots.net/t/53/453/1/21/36/2964121360097493054pVJTFL_th.jpghttp://thumb14.webshots.net/t/57/757/2/88/4/2023288040097493054SEKowB_th.jpghttp://thumb14.webshots.net/t/18/19/8/37/21/2050837210097493054IYBJJL_th.jpghttp://thumb14.webshots.net/t/59/559/1/43/57/2876143570097493054jKVhDw_th.jpghttp://thumb14.webshots.net/t/22/22/0/2/68/2589002680097493054ftBuBw_th.jpghttp://thumb14.webshots.net/t/28/28/8/30/30/2075830300097493054aSSlFv_th.jpghttp://thumb14.webshots.net/t/59/459/2/23/86/2067223860097493054YoeGMx_th.jpghttp://thumb14.webshots.net/t/28/28/5/18/33/2537518330097493054OgEKcN_th.jpg
Guido Salvage - "Where rust is beautiful"

Studebaker horse drawn buggy; 1946 M-16 fire truck; 1948 M-16 grain truck; 1949 2R16A grain truck; 1949 2R17A fire truck; 1950 2R5 pickup; 1952 2R17A grain truck; 1952 Packard 200 4 door; 1955 E-38 grain truck; 1957 3E-40 flatbed; 1961 6E-28 grain truck; 1962 7E-13D 4x4 rack truck; 1962 7E-7 Champ pickup; 1962 GT Hawk 4 speed; 1963 8E-28 flatbed; 1964 Avanti R2 4 speed; 1964 Cruiser and various other "treasures".

Hiding and preserving Studebakers in Richmond, Goochland & Louisa, Va.

1950Champ
04-08-2007, 09:42 PM
We recently got an original radio for our 1950 Studebaker off ebay, it currently doesn't work, tubes glow etc. but no sound at all. I checked the speaker, and it worked, so I wired in one of these (that my Aunt gave me) to use for now! http://www.spectraintl.com/xsp/SB2603.html It works very well, and I even wrapped a wire around its antenna and attached it to the car antenna which helps alot, but it cannot maintain a signal while driving, yet does okay sitting still.

1950Champ
04-08-2007, 09:42 PM
We recently got an original radio for our 1950 Studebaker off ebay, it currently doesn't work, tubes glow etc. but no sound at all. I checked the speaker, and it worked, so I wired in one of these (that my Aunt gave me) to use for now! http://www.spectraintl.com/xsp/SB2603.html It works very well, and I even wrapped a wire around its antenna and attached it to the car antenna which helps alot, but it cannot maintain a signal while driving, yet does okay sitting still.

showbizkid
04-09-2007, 01:29 AM
quote:Originally posted by 1950Champ

We recently got an original radio for our 1950 Studebaker off ebay, it currently doesn't work, tubes glow etc. but no sound at all.


If you're at all handy with electronics, soldering, etc., you can make your radio work. What's happened is that all the old paper-type electrolytic capacitors have dried out. Re-cap the radio and you'll have sound again!


[img=left]http://members.cox.net/clarknovak/lark.gif[/img=left]

Clark in San Diego
'63 F2/Lark Standard
http://studeblogger.blogspot.com

showbizkid
04-09-2007, 01:29 AM
quote:Originally posted by 1950Champ

We recently got an original radio for our 1950 Studebaker off ebay, it currently doesn't work, tubes glow etc. but no sound at all.


If you're at all handy with electronics, soldering, etc., you can make your radio work. What's happened is that all the old paper-type electrolytic capacitors have dried out. Re-cap the radio and you'll have sound again!


[img=left]http://members.cox.net/clarknovak/lark.gif[/img=left]

Clark in San Diego
'63 F2/Lark Standard
http://studeblogger.blogspot.com

1950Champ
04-09-2007, 01:46 AM
Where would I get replacements? I would love to get it working again, also the car has been converted to 12v, how should I hook it up to power? (it is currently hooked up to a few c-cells under the glovebox so it can light up)

1950Champ
04-09-2007, 01:46 AM
Where would I get replacements? I would love to get it working again, also the car has been converted to 12v, how should I hook it up to power? (it is currently hooked up to a few c-cells under the glovebox so it can light up)

avantilover
04-09-2007, 02:39 AM
1950Champ try this link -
http://www.turnswitch.com/
They say they can restore old car radios and are worth a go to see about yours.


John Clements
Avantilover, your South Australian Studebaker lover!!!
Lockleys South Australia

avantilover
04-09-2007, 02:39 AM
1950Champ try this link -
http://www.turnswitch.com/
They say they can restore old car radios and are worth a go to see about yours.


John Clements
Avantilover, your South Australian Studebaker lover!!!
Lockleys South Australia

rusty nut garage
04-09-2007, 09:21 AM
For Radio repair I recommend this guy!!! He's listed on Turners brake page and he just recently repaired a radio for me.
SDC member and allround helpful honest guy.

Harry Alenik Radio Repair

310 643-8100


Russ Shop Foreman "Rusty Nut Garage"
57 SH (project)
60 Lark VIII 2dr sd (driver)

rusty nut garage
04-09-2007, 09:21 AM
For Radio repair I recommend this guy!!! He's listed on Turners brake page and he just recently repaired a radio for me.
SDC member and allround helpful honest guy.

Harry Alenik Radio Repair

310 643-8100


Russ Shop Foreman "Rusty Nut Garage"
57 SH (project)
60 Lark VIII 2dr sd (driver)

John Kirchhoff
04-09-2007, 12:02 PM
I put a four speaker system into my '60 Hawk. I cut two new holes in the rear shelf for 5"X9" speakers. Rather than the old cardboard cover on the shelf, I just glued some of the el-cheapo auto carpet over the top. The weave is open enough that it doesn't effect the sound output. I sure didn't feel like chopping up the new material on my door panels as well as the doors, I was able to mount two 5" speakers under the dash. They point downward which isn't acoustically, but they work adequately without destroying a new interior. The right one attaches to the metal rail that supports the dash and I'd have to look to see where I mounted the left one. However, I do know the left one was more difficult because of little space. Instead of using screws to hold the front speakers in place, I used zip ties. They hold securely and if you don't like where they speaker is at, just cut them and reposition them elsewhere. A 4 speaker stereo system really sounds good compared to the old monaural two speaker deal.

John Kirchhoff
04-09-2007, 12:02 PM
I put a four speaker system into my '60 Hawk. I cut two new holes in the rear shelf for 5"X9" speakers. Rather than the old cardboard cover on the shelf, I just glued some of the el-cheapo auto carpet over the top. The weave is open enough that it doesn't effect the sound output. I sure didn't feel like chopping up the new material on my door panels as well as the doors, I was able to mount two 5" speakers under the dash. They point downward which isn't acoustically, but they work adequately without destroying a new interior. The right one attaches to the metal rail that supports the dash and I'd have to look to see where I mounted the left one. However, I do know the left one was more difficult because of little space. Instead of using screws to hold the front speakers in place, I used zip ties. They hold securely and if you don't like where they speaker is at, just cut them and reposition them elsewhere. A 4 speaker stereo system really sounds good compared to the old monaural two speaker deal.

52 Ragtop
04-09-2007, 10:04 PM
I have a CD changer in my 52 ragtop, 6 volt POs. ground! I had my radio converted to am/fm by Turnswitch, and they did a great job. I also had them install the 2nd converter for the cd changer, and don't ask me how a 12 v neg ground cd changer works with a 6 volt pos. ground system, but it does, only 1 speaker, but who cares! Still sound great, and I'm very pleased with their work and quality.

Jim

52 Ragtop
04-09-2007, 10:04 PM
I have a CD changer in my 52 ragtop, 6 volt POs. ground! I had my radio converted to am/fm by Turnswitch, and they did a great job. I also had them install the 2nd converter for the cd changer, and don't ask me how a 12 v neg ground cd changer works with a 6 volt pos. ground system, but it does, only 1 speaker, but who cares! Still sound great, and I'm very pleased with their work and quality.

Jim

52 Ragtop
04-09-2007, 10:09 PM
Just to clarify, Bud Alenik does repairs on the stock radios, and is an electrical wizard! He does not do am/fm conversions! If yo need a stock radio, distributor (he has a Sun Dist. machine at home and KNOWS how to use it) or Carb. work he is a wizard!

Jim

52 Ragtop
04-09-2007, 10:09 PM
Just to clarify, Bud Alenik does repairs on the stock radios, and is an electrical wizard! He does not do am/fm conversions! If yo need a stock radio, distributor (he has a Sun Dist. machine at home and KNOWS how to use it) or Carb. work he is a wizard!

Jim

pitbulllady
04-09-2007, 10:29 PM
My '61 Lark Cruiser already had an after-market AM-FM cassette in place when I got it, but no antenna, and just that one original speaker that came with the original AM radio, plus two after-market 4-6 speakers hidden on the front kick panels, almost underneath the dash. They're either not hooked up, or blown, since they don't work. I took it in to a car audio place to have them check it out for putting in a modern stereo, since the old radio is gone, anyway. I've got the original AM radio that came with my '51 Champion, but the seller said it doesn't work. I'll try to pursuade my father, who used to mess around a lot with old radios and TVs, to try and fix it, so I can keep that car as original as possible.

pitbulllady

pitbulllady
04-09-2007, 10:29 PM
My '61 Lark Cruiser already had an after-market AM-FM cassette in place when I got it, but no antenna, and just that one original speaker that came with the original AM radio, plus two after-market 4-6 speakers hidden on the front kick panels, almost underneath the dash. They're either not hooked up, or blown, since they don't work. I took it in to a car audio place to have them check it out for putting in a modern stereo, since the old radio is gone, anyway. I've got the original AM radio that came with my '51 Champion, but the seller said it doesn't work. I'll try to pursuade my father, who used to mess around a lot with old radios and TVs, to try and fix it, so I can keep that car as original as possible.

pitbulllady

studebaker-R2-4-me
04-09-2007, 10:54 PM
I spend this last weekend installing my system in the 64 hawk. I have install the CD player c/w(2 gig USB memory stick) under the drivers seat with a universal mount enclosure. Wired the amplifier under the passenger seat. Installed two Clarion 4X6 plate speakers installed under the cardboard shelf with holes cut in the cardboard. I took the rear shelf cardboard and wrapped and stretched with 2 layers of black speaker fabric over the two rear speaker c/w with the single radio speaker in the centre. this makes the two rear speakers invisible. The two front speaker were a problem with little room to install the 5 1/4" inch with separate tweeters under the dash and still get some good sound therefore I am having left and right speaker pods fabricated out of fiberglass and having them painted black positioned in front of the air vents in the kick panels. These pods have the 5 1/4" base speaker on the bottom and the 1" tweeter on the top of pod. I post picture when I get the pods finished

1964 GT Hawk soon to be R2 Clone

studebaker-R2-4-me
04-09-2007, 10:54 PM
I spend this last weekend installing my system in the 64 hawk. I have install the CD player c/w(2 gig USB memory stick) under the drivers seat with a universal mount enclosure. Wired the amplifier under the passenger seat. Installed two Clarion 4X6 plate speakers installed under the cardboard shelf with holes cut in the cardboard. I took the rear shelf cardboard and wrapped and stretched with 2 layers of black speaker fabric over the two rear speaker c/w with the single radio speaker in the centre. this makes the two rear speakers invisible. The two front speaker were a problem with little room to install the 5 1/4" inch with separate tweeters under the dash and still get some good sound therefore I am having left and right speaker pods fabricated out of fiberglass and having them painted black positioned in front of the air vents in the kick panels. These pods have the 5 1/4" base speaker on the bottom and the 1" tweeter on the top of pod. I post picture when I get the pods finished

1964 GT Hawk soon to be R2 Clone

fpstude
04-10-2007, 10:24 AM
Thanks to this forum, and information from Greywbl, I've located the 4" x 8" speaker needed for out Lark. I've been looking for years. You find one at a swap meeet, but it has been in the bottom of a box for years. I'll be ordering one in a few days.

Perry
'23 Special Six,
'50 Business Champ,
'50 Starlight Champ,
'60 Lark droptop,
'63 GT

fpstude
04-10-2007, 10:24 AM
Thanks to this forum, and information from Greywbl, I've located the 4" x 8" speaker needed for out Lark. I've been looking for years. You find one at a swap meeet, but it has been in the bottom of a box for years. I'll be ordering one in a few days.

Perry
'23 Special Six,
'50 Business Champ,
'50 Starlight Champ,
'60 Lark droptop,
'63 GT

johnesmonde
04-10-2007, 09:28 PM
I eventually built a 3 sided enclosure (open to the back)for the 62 Hawk to fit on top of the transmission hump between the hump and the lip of the dash. Approx. 12" wide, 9" high and 8" deep. I mounted two 4 inch coaxial Infinity speakers from Future Shop in the bottom section of the enclosure front panel with a Clarion Radio/CD head unit in the top right. The enclosure sits under the dash lip yet behind the portion that dips down by the lighter. The head unit actually sits tight to the dash beside the lighter section. I covered the enclosure with black vinyl and it matches and melts right into the dash.People not completely familiar with the Hawk think it is factory. I use the single mono speaker in the rear shelf hooked to left side only and it sounds great. Custom Audio Sound does have a Dual Voice Coil speaker for the rear which allows both left and right channels to be hooked up to one speaker but I don't think I'll bother. I can send pictures if anyone is interested.

Regards,
John

John Esmonde
Holland Landing, Ontario
Canada
'62 Hawk
'30 Chev Coach

johnesmonde
04-10-2007, 09:28 PM
I eventually built a 3 sided enclosure (open to the back)for the 62 Hawk to fit on top of the transmission hump between the hump and the lip of the dash. Approx. 12" wide, 9" high and 8" deep. I mounted two 4 inch coaxial Infinity speakers from Future Shop in the bottom section of the enclosure front panel with a Clarion Radio/CD head unit in the top right. The enclosure sits under the dash lip yet behind the portion that dips down by the lighter. The head unit actually sits tight to the dash beside the lighter section. I covered the enclosure with black vinyl and it matches and melts right into the dash.People not completely familiar with the Hawk think it is factory. I use the single mono speaker in the rear shelf hooked to left side only and it sounds great. Custom Audio Sound does have a Dual Voice Coil speaker for the rear which allows both left and right channels to be hooked up to one speaker but I don't think I'll bother. I can send pictures if anyone is interested.

Regards,
John

John Esmonde
Holland Landing, Ontario
Canada
'62 Hawk
'30 Chev Coach

1950Champ
05-13-2007, 09:50 PM
I would prefer to fix the radio myself here during the summer, where can I order replacement electrolytic capacitors that Clark mentioned? Also, there is no noise at all from the radio when running, humming etc. A guy said the vibrator should also be replaced as it should be making noise, is this true, and where would I get a replacement? The radio is a Philco s4927, for a 1950.
Thanks,
Spence

1950Champ
05-13-2007, 09:50 PM
I would prefer to fix the radio myself here during the summer, where can I order replacement electrolytic capacitors that Clark mentioned? Also, there is no noise at all from the radio when running, humming etc. A guy said the vibrator should also be replaced as it should be making noise, is this true, and where would I get a replacement? The radio is a Philco s4927, for a 1950.
Thanks,
Spence

JDP
05-13-2007, 09:55 PM
Buy this modern, solid state version.


http://www.radiodaze.com/auto-radios.htm

JDP/Maryland


63 GT R2
63 Avanti R1
63 Daytona convert-63
63 Lark 2 door
62 Lark 2 door
60 Lark HT-60Hawk
59 3E truck
58 Starlight
52 & 53 Starliner
51 Commander

JDP
05-13-2007, 09:55 PM
Buy this modern, solid state version.


http://www.radiodaze.com/auto-radios.htm

JDP/Maryland


63 GT R2
63 Avanti R1
63 Daytona convert-63
63 Lark 2 door
62 Lark 2 door
60 Lark HT-60Hawk
59 3E truck
58 Starlight
52 & 53 Starliner
51 Commander

gordr
05-13-2007, 10:09 PM
quote:Originally posted by 1950Champ

I would prefer to fix the radio myself here during the summer, where can I order replacement electrolytic capacitors that Clark mentioned? Also, there is no noise at all from the radio when running, humming etc. A guy said the vibrator should also be replaced as it should be making noise, is this true, and where would I get a replacement? The radio is a Philco s4927, for a 1950.
Thanks,
Spence


Spence, another source for capacitors and solid-state vibrator replacements is Antique Electronics Supply, http://www.tubesandmore.com/

You MUST replace the buffer capacitor connected across the secondary of the vibrator transformer. It will be a paper capacitor rated at 1600 volts, the only one in the radio rated at that voltage. You SHOULD replace the electrolytic capacitors, and all the paper capacitors, too. They typically cost between 50 cents and a buck apiece, and there aren't so many that the cost of replacing them will break you.

There are numerous Websites that go into considerable detail on the process of tube radio restoration; let me know if you want a few more links. Just Googling for "antique radio" will turn up a bunch, though.

BTW, it's normal for vibrators to make a low hum. Again, replace the buffer capacitor. The old one is probably shorted, or about to short, and it will kill your vibrator instantly, and it will kill a solid-state one even faster.:D

Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

gordr
05-13-2007, 10:09 PM
quote:Originally posted by 1950Champ

I would prefer to fix the radio myself here during the summer, where can I order replacement electrolytic capacitors that Clark mentioned? Also, there is no noise at all from the radio when running, humming etc. A guy said the vibrator should also be replaced as it should be making noise, is this true, and where would I get a replacement? The radio is a Philco s4927, for a 1950.
Thanks,
Spence


Spence, another source for capacitors and solid-state vibrator replacements is Antique Electronics Supply, http://www.tubesandmore.com/

You MUST replace the buffer capacitor connected across the secondary of the vibrator transformer. It will be a paper capacitor rated at 1600 volts, the only one in the radio rated at that voltage. You SHOULD replace the electrolytic capacitors, and all the paper capacitors, too. They typically cost between 50 cents and a buck apiece, and there aren't so many that the cost of replacing them will break you.

There are numerous Websites that go into considerable detail on the process of tube radio restoration; let me know if you want a few more links. Just Googling for "antique radio" will turn up a bunch, though.

BTW, it's normal for vibrators to make a low hum. Again, replace the buffer capacitor. The old one is probably shorted, or about to short, and it will kill your vibrator instantly, and it will kill a solid-state one even faster.:D

Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

1950Champ
05-14-2007, 03:23 PM
Will replacing the vibrator with a 12v negative ground make the radio ready to hook up to the car which has been converted to 12v, or do lots of other things need to be done?

1950Champ
05-14-2007, 03:23 PM
Will replacing the vibrator with a 12v negative ground make the radio ready to hook up to the car which has been converted to 12v, or do lots of other things need to be done?

starlightchamp
05-14-2007, 03:56 PM
i have been repairing old car radios since 1950. Latest repair was a 1947 Chevy and two Studebaker 1950-51 radios. First to answer your question on six volt positive ground
radio in a converted twelve volt negative ground car. You need a 12 volt, negative ground vibrator. A source for these has been mentionrd above. The vacumn tubes will have 6 volt heaters so must be replaced with 12 volt filaments of the same tube type. If the tube count is even number (six or eight) you could rewire so that two tube heaters are in series for each pair in the radio. Frankly, since the tubes are 50+ years old, you might as well buy a new set with the 12 volt rating. As already mentioned, the buffer capacitor is a must, a 1600 volt cap that goes across the transformer secondary. Remember that tube radios operate at high voltages on their anodes (plates) like + 250 volts so be careful! The filter capacitors are usually in a metal can near the rectifier tube and usually dried out internally and shorted.
Since the vibrator will cost near $40, you don't want to turn on the set with shorted filter capacitors. They can be replaced being sure to use 450 volt ratings. The coupling capacitors that carry the signal from the plates to grid of output power tubes must stand off this 250 volts and any leakage will appear on the control grid, causing the tube to over conduct and suck down the power supply. These caps also must be replaced. You definitley need a schematic of the radio to repair and align it. Also a volt-ohm meter as minimum test equipment. If you decide to tackle it let me know and I can walk you through some of the troubles. I assume you know how to solder.
Good luck
..Dick

starlightchamp
05-14-2007, 03:56 PM
i have been repairing old car radios since 1950. Latest repair was a 1947 Chevy and two Studebaker 1950-51 radios. First to answer your question on six volt positive ground
radio in a converted twelve volt negative ground car. You need a 12 volt, negative ground vibrator. A source for these has been mentionrd above. The vacumn tubes will have 6 volt heaters so must be replaced with 12 volt filaments of the same tube type. If the tube count is even number (six or eight) you could rewire so that two tube heaters are in series for each pair in the radio. Frankly, since the tubes are 50+ years old, you might as well buy a new set with the 12 volt rating. As already mentioned, the buffer capacitor is a must, a 1600 volt cap that goes across the transformer secondary. Remember that tube radios operate at high voltages on their anodes (plates) like + 250 volts so be careful! The filter capacitors are usually in a metal can near the rectifier tube and usually dried out internally and shorted.
Since the vibrator will cost near $40, you don't want to turn on the set with shorted filter capacitors. They can be replaced being sure to use 450 volt ratings. The coupling capacitors that carry the signal from the plates to grid of output power tubes must stand off this 250 volts and any leakage will appear on the control grid, causing the tube to over conduct and suck down the power supply. These caps also must be replaced. You definitley need a schematic of the radio to repair and align it. Also a volt-ohm meter as minimum test equipment. If you decide to tackle it let me know and I can walk you through some of the troubles. I assume you know how to solder.
Good luck
..Dick

bondobilly
05-14-2007, 08:30 PM
I installed a JVC Camellion (spelling). It mounts to the underside of the dash, and far back (56J). When you look inside the car it looks like part of the heating system. When you either press the remote or touch the box it lights up, and the controls move out on a motorized tray/drawer.

For the speakers. there are two ways of doing it in a C/K on the kick pads there is an indent that was made to accept the rollup antenna control. You can mount a high end speaker in that indent, and place a grille over them.

I have only found one issue with any stereo radio in a Studebaker, at highway speed, windows down and cars passing you, especially 18 wheelers you cannot really listen comfortably.

I was going to have the radio converted, but in speaking with a fellow in the SDC who is deep into audio he cautioned against it. Not that the conversions are bad, shoddy, or anything negative, but he felt that the radios from the 40's and 50's are classics and the guts should remain as they were because of nostalgia.

BG

bondobilly
05-14-2007, 08:30 PM
I installed a JVC Camellion (spelling). It mounts to the underside of the dash, and far back (56J). When you look inside the car it looks like part of the heating system. When you either press the remote or touch the box it lights up, and the controls move out on a motorized tray/drawer.

For the speakers. there are two ways of doing it in a C/K on the kick pads there is an indent that was made to accept the rollup antenna control. You can mount a high end speaker in that indent, and place a grille over them.

I have only found one issue with any stereo radio in a Studebaker, at highway speed, windows down and cars passing you, especially 18 wheelers you cannot really listen comfortably.

I was going to have the radio converted, but in speaking with a fellow in the SDC who is deep into audio he cautioned against it. Not that the conversions are bad, shoddy, or anything negative, but he felt that the radios from the 40's and 50's are classics and the guts should remain as they were because of nostalgia.

BG