View Full Version : Towing a lark

11-13-2006, 02:03 PM
I am getting my 63 Daytona Convertible shipped on a tranporter to my new home in Oregon. I seem to remember that when it was shipped out to me, John P. was emphatic about some aspect of the tying-down process. I can't remember what that caution was, though. Something
about tie-downs on the axles or suspension members. John? Anyone?
Thanks for any help.


11-13-2006, 03:09 PM
Make sure they don't do the front TIE DOWNS over the tie-rods like they did when mine was shipped.They bent the tie-rods all to Rat-Sh#%#& Then they claimed they were not responsible for the suspension.
As luck would have it the owner of the hauling company was a Studebaker man & paid for new rods & ends that I had to install.Still another job I should not have had to do.

11-13-2006, 05:20 PM
I once drove from VA to PA to pick up a '63 8E40 cab and chassis. The truck was beat, but had 10.00x20's, fender flares, a 195" WB and a 5 speed OD, so I thought it was worth the $275 asking price. I threw the cable over the front axle and winched it up onto my rollback and came home. Only when I went to unload did I realize I had gotten more than the axle! :(.

[b]Guido Salvage - "Where rust is beautiful"

Studebaker horse drawn buggy; 1946 M-16 fire truck; 1948 M-16 grain truck; 1949 2R16A grain truck; 1949 2R17A fire truck; 1950 2R5 pickup; 1952 2R17A grain truck; 1952 Packard 200 4 door; 1955 E-38 grain truck; 1957 3E-40 flatbed; 1961 6E-28 grain truck; 1962 7E-13D 4x4 rack truck; 1962 7E-7 Champ pickup; 1962 GT Hawk 4 speed; 1963 8E-28 flatbed; 1964 Avanti R2 4 speed; 1964 Cruiser and various other "treasures".

Hiding and preserving Studebakers in Richmond, Goochland & Louisa, Va.

11-13-2006, 06:17 PM
Never, never, never under any circumstances allow a shipper to hook into the holes in the bottom plate of the frame. I've seen what happens more than once, it just rips the bottom plate and then the car is unsecured. The ONLY acceptable place to use a hook would be if you have a car with the eyes in the lower inner control arm shafts. Otherwise, the car should be secured with nylon straps over the axle (but not the brake lines!) frame, front crossmember, or other solid piece.

The reason the frames rip so easily is that they're really not that strong. Unlike a pickup truck or some large cars, the frames on a Stude are really just thick sheetmetal. You can really think of a Stude as a unibody that's bolted together; neither the frame nor the body is particularly stiff when they are separated, they really need to be attached to each other.


55 Commander Starlight

11-13-2006, 10:37 PM
I'd like to thank the posters of this thread. I'm sending a car off to Michigan in the next week and will be able to watch that the shipper ties it down right.

Lotsa Larks!
K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Studebaker!
Ron Smith