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32cruisin
11-12-2006, 01:16 PM
Hello, Are there any truck questions on this site? I have two questions,1) how do I get the lower door hinge screws out of an painted and upohlstered truck. Door adjustment needed to even door gaps and it looks like the only way is to shim behind hinge. 2) I am running a small block Chevy in my M-5 and it is borderline when it comes to cooling. Right now I have the origional Stude radiator in there but I have to run a low pressure cap , as recomended by my local radiator shop,. Does anyone know of a more modern radiator to bolt in this truck or would I be better off recoring my origional. Thanks for the help, Dennis

kamzack
11-12-2006, 02:36 PM
I'd suggest not trying to use the original raditor recored or not. I've built 4 street rods and for cooling I've used Walker Radiators, they're in Memphis, Tn. They will build one for your application with the latest in cooling technology. There are other vendors out there as well,such as Griffin.
Most of these types come with condensor(optional) and ATF cooler built in. I suggest using an electric fan with a shroud. The electric fan will maximize the raditors' ability to cool. The waterpump fan isn't efficient in traffic with your sbc idling. Sometimes the sbc is mounted low in the engine compartment and the water pump fan cannot draw enough air to cool at that location. You may not like the price, but peace of mind in cruising traffic is worth alot as opposed to swetting bullits watching your temp go outa sight, and it begins to push coolant out on the ground. Above 30mph, ya don't need a fan, you have enough ram air to keep it cool. You can manually set the sensor to what ever temp ya want the fan to come on. The water pump takes 12 to 18hp to turn. You get to run a 16 to 18lb cap,for each pound pressure, there's a 2 degree temp drop. Also, use a 160 thermostat. This setup will pay for itself several times, cause you've taken the related overheat problems and expenses away. I'm sure ya can do a search for custom raditors and find something you're comfortable with.
About the Hinge screws and I know I'll get beat up for this, I gonna tell ya anyway. The ways I've used is, impact driver or drilling the heads off with similar sized bit, then a bit just a bit smaller the diameter of the hinge screw. Now the hillbilly way to adjust the gap at the hinges, is use a a 2x4 or 1x4 between the upper or lower hinge and put closing pressure on it. You can also use 2x4 against the the hinge on the outside where the hinge pin is,tapping the block against the hinge. I'd also use a dead blow hammer. That's my 20 cents worth and thanks for letting me share.
Kim

Dick Steinkamp
11-12-2006, 03:13 PM
quote:Originally posted by kamzack
for each pound pressure, there's a 2 degree temp drop.


Actually, the temperature doesn't change with a pressurized system (all else being equal). Water will boil at a higher temperature in a pressurized system. Hence "boil over" occurs at a higer temp than the normal 212 degrees...but the pressure doesn't change the temp.

I have an M15A-28 with a 305 Chevy and Chevy truck 4 speed. All else is stock (including the radiator). No shroud, mechanical fan only, not a pressurized system. No over heating probs...in fact I'm switching to a 180 degree thermostat from a 160 to try to get a little quicker warm up. I don't have AC and it is not exactly tropical here in the PNW [:o)]



http://static.flickr.com/100/292046667_cc1661ba0e_m.jpg

kamzack
11-13-2006, 10:20 AM
Hey Dennis,

What did I tell ya, Dennis.
I'd venture timidly and tactfully and humbly to say that an M5 street rod is gonna be used in a different environment than an M15(wish I had mine back). Buzzin around rod events in the heat of summer may be more of a reason to use something more suited to the usage. I've been in traffic with a 46 chebby pu with all the equiptment sitting in a line of rods in July in Oaklahoma City waiting to get into the fairgrounds with air on and never get over 200 degrees. I don't have much knowledge of much of anything, the temp statement came from Vernon Walker and the rest from experience.Not cast in stone, but written with pencil, with an eraser. I'm answering a request for answers and or opinions.
Thanks for letting me share,
Kim

Dick Steinkamp
11-13-2006, 12:12 PM
Kim,
I totally agree with you. As I stated, I live in a cool climate and don't have AC on this vehicle. I probably couldn't get away with this set up under different circumstances.

Here's a good link that explains the reasons for pressurizing a cooling system...

http://www.centuryperformance.com/coolingsys.asp



http://static.flickr.com/100/292046667_cc1661ba0e_m.jpg

Guido
11-13-2006, 05:23 PM
quote:Originally posted by 32cruisin

Hello, 1) how do I get the lower door hinge screws out of an painted and upohlstered truck. Door adjustment needed to even door gaps and it looks like the only way is to shim behind hinge.
Dennis,

Check the Studebaker Truck Talk site for the answer to this question. Gary Ash just explained the procedure in the past couple of days.

Gary

http://thumb14.webshots.net/t/53/453/1/21/36/2964121360097493054pVJTFL_th.jpghttp://thumb14.webshots.net/t/57/757/2/88/4/2023288040097493054SEKowB_th.jpghttp://thumb14.webshots.net/t/18/19/8/37/21/2050837210097493054IYBJJL_th.jpghttp://thumb14.webshots.net/t/59/559/1/43/57/2876143570097493054jKVhDw_th.jpghttp://thumb14.webshots.net/t/22/22/0/2/68/2589002680097493054ftBuBw_th.jpghttp://thumb14.webshots.net/t/28/28/8/30/30/2075830300097493054aSSlFv_th.jpghttp://thumb14.webshots.net/t/59/459/2/23/86/2067223860097493054YoeGMx_th.jpghttp://thumb14.webshots.net/t/28/28/5/18/33/2537518330097493054OgEKcN_th.jpg
Guido Salvage - "Where rust is beautiful"

Studebaker horse drawn buggy; 1946 M-16 fire truck; 1948 M-16 grain truck; 1949 2R16A grain truck; 1949 2R17A fire truck; 1950 2R5 pickup; 1952 2R17A grain truck; 1952 Packard 200 4 door; 1955 E-38 grain truck; 1957 3E-40 flatbed; 1961 6E-28 grain truck; 1962 7E-13D 4x4 rack truck; 1962 7E-7 Champ pickup; 1962 GT Hawk 4 speed; 1963 8E-28 flatbed; 1964 Avanti R2 4 speed; 1964 Cruiser and various other "treasures".

Hiding and preserving Studebakers in Richmond, Goochland & Louisa, Va.

32cruisin
11-13-2006, 08:27 PM
Hey All, Thanks for the input.Kim I know exactly where you are coming from. I also have a 32 Chevy Sedan in which I installed a new Walker. I don't have air but I can still cruise the grounds all day long at Back to the 50's in late June and not run over 185 degrees.The Stude now is a different story. Once around the fair grounds and it is time to shut down. Just trying to find a more economical way to go about it. You see, Walker doesn't make a radiator for the M series but they will custom build onefor me. Now I am in the $700 range, ouch.You are probably right though. Thanks all, Dennis