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61LaRk4dr
11-10-2006, 01:44 PM
Greetings,

The car: 1961 Lark 4-sedan .
The engine: 170 ohv six cylinder.


The problem:
The engine is equipped with a model AS-2934-SA Carter Carburetor. It was not in the best condition when I purchased the car so I decided to rebuild it. I used the directions per the Studebaker shop manual for the adjustments and other important information and the first time I started it, it ran perfectly. Now the bad news, for some reason when I came out the day after to start it up, the engine was idling horribly and it sounded even worst when it was put into gear. In gear, I couldn’t even tap the accelerator without the car sounding like it would die. I went ahead and did some more adjustments to see if it was running to rich or to lean and after fiddling around with it for about 30 minutes, the car sounded wonderful again. I went ahead and turned it off and a came back a few hours later to start it up again and sure enough it started on the first turn and sounded great. Believing that I had taken care of the issue I turned it off and came back out the next morning. Once again the engine took several cranks before starting and it was back to a very rough idle.

Other than feeling incredibly incompetent, I am not sure as to what is going on other than it seems that I must of missed an adjustment somewhere. Any ideas are welcomed.

Thank you

N8N
11-10-2006, 02:19 PM
two thoughts...

sounds like it is only running poorly when cold, check your choke adjustment.

Also, make sure you are adjusting your idle mixture with the engine fully up to operating temperature. You might have to go back and readjust the choke the next day after resetting the idle mix.

Finally, make sure that you don't have a vacuum leak.

good luck,

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

ROADRACELARK
11-12-2006, 01:13 PM
Everything Nate said is correct. As for any vacuum leaks...make sure the vacuum line to the distributor is intact, some have a piece of. . rubber hose in that line, make sure it's not cracked, or worse, missing. another possibility is the carb. base gasket. Simple test with engine running, use a UN-LIT butane torch, turn it on and aim it all around the base of the carb. if there is a leak the idle speed will increase, and or, smooth out. Same condition could exist arond the intake gasket at the cylinder head, use the same test. Hope this helps :)
Dan Miller

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Road Racers turn left AND right.

DEEPNHOCK
11-12-2006, 01:19 PM
Probably water in your fuel.
Jeff[8D]

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DEEPNHOCK at Gmail.com
Brooklet, Georgia
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Roscomacaw
11-12-2006, 03:32 PM
Well, a bit of blunt honesty needs to be mentioned here. That Carter AS carb was junk when new. I've never heard anyone say anything nice about it. That said, I once had a Stromberg WW carb on a Stude V8 that would give me intermittent grief like you speak of. Heck, I went thru that thing more than once and had it apart I don't know HOW many times in the course of a couple of months!:(
In desperation one day, I stripped it all apart once AGAIN and blew out all the passages as I had done time and time before. What was different this time tho, was that a ball of lint finally ejected from one of the internal passages as I was blowing air thru it this way and that!
Being light in weight and very frazzled, that bit of fluff didn't go far. Upon closer inspection, it looked as tho it might have come from one of those red shop rags or something colored dark red. No telling how long that stuff had been held captive in the bowels of that carb, but after I reassembled it that last time, the damned thing worked flawlessly![^]
Since I'd blown thru every passage in that carb numerous times, I can only assume that that bit of lint was caught on some rough edge of the bowl casting that kept it from flying out with a blast of air.[8] Of course, I have nothing but praise for the WW series of carbs. Those things keep working well even when well worn. Can't say that from my experience with the AS series, which AMC tried to use on many early 60s Ramblers as well.[xx(]

Miscreant adrift in
the BerStuda Triangle!!

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe

rockne10
11-12-2006, 08:54 PM
I use an aerosol can of gum cutter to check for vacuum leaks.

studeclunker
11-12-2006, 11:47 PM
If I might be so bold as to suggest...
Jeff Rice either has or can steer you to a carb for that little six. He has a supply business that has some really great products. His name on this forum is: deepnhock and you can contact him by clicking on members in the task bar on your top right of this screen. Just type in his user name and it will show you his profile. You can then send him an e-mail.
Or try this:
http://studebakerdriversclub.com/sdc_forum/pop_profile.asp?mode=display&id=35

There are good carbs for that engine. Jeff is very good for helping people with carb problems. I should know, he was tremendous help to me once...;)



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Lotsa Larks!
K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Studebaker!
Ron Smith

kamzack
11-14-2006, 10:14 AM
Not wanting to be contradictory, but I've always had good success with AS carb. I've bought them at swap meets, taken apart, soak in solvent for an appropiate time, scrub, little bottle wash brushes in the tight places,blow them out with air pressure, new gasket set, oil the new accel. pump, properly set float, make the correct choke settings and have a very economical carb. The carb that I've thrown away is the RBS, now that is a POJ. Everyone has dirrerent experiences. I've taken the rbs off a ohv 6 and put an AS carb and have a much better running engine.
I also like the ww carb, they can be redone over and oever. The weakness is the throttle plate and shaft, which can be rebushed.
Thanks for letting me share,
Kim

chet445
11-21-2006, 07:26 PM
I have a place that I take my carburetors to get repaired. They do such a wonderful job and no further adjustment is required. Just install and start the engine. The cost is normally about $85 plus shipping. If interested, let me know. Chet