fuel filter

[jmccarrol@hotmail.com]

When I first start the engine when cold it takes a lot of cranking. For the rest of the day it starts every time on the first try. The plastic fuel filter seems to be loosing gas back towards the pump. Next day same routine. Should the bowl of the filter be full? Is this the reason for gas not being pumped to the carb right away?
Thanks Joe

[Tom Bredehoft]

The older and more often a carburetor gets rebuilt, the more porous the metal becomes. Eventually the float bowl will no longer hold gas overnight. An electric fuel pump and 10 seconds of priming will generally start a car right away, or at least sooner than without. Your fuel pump has two (one way) check valves in it that preclude gas returning to the tank that way.

[img=left]http://www.alink.com/personal/tbredehoft/Avatar1.jpg[/img=left]
Tom Bredehoft
'53 Commander Coupe
'55 President (6H Y6) State Sedan
(Under Construction 442 hrs.)
'05 Legacy Ltd Wagon
All Indiana built cars

[StudeRich]

That is correct what Tom says about porous Carbs. & the one way valves in the fuel pump, BUT what if they are full of debris and or stuck open?
That may be something you should check out. Maybe if you put reverse pressure on the Carb. line, you can tell if fuel flows back to the tank line.

StudeRich
Studebakers Northwest
Ferndale, WA

[Studeman]

quote:Originally posted by StudeRich

That is correct what Tom says about porous Carbs. & the one way valves in the fuel pump, BUT what if they are full of debris and or stuck open?

Then the pump won't "pump" because it can't create the vacuum needed if they are stuck open...

That may be something you should check out. Maybe if you put reverse pressure on the Carb. line, you can tell if fuel flows back to the tank line.

I have never seen a liquid drain "up" past a needle valve

What is happening is evaporation of the fuel in the bowls (and through the now-pourous metal) due to the increased volatility of modern fuel- compared to Gasoline when our cars were built..
However, even my NEW modern Edelbrock has evaporation problems after a few days


Specializing in Studebaker Restoration

[Guest]

Is there any way to re-seal a carb bowl, or is it just not cost effective?

Western Washington, USA

[MagikDraggin]

quote:Originally posted by jmccarrol@hotmail.com

When I first start the engine when cold it takes a lot of cranking. For the rest of the day it starts every time on the first try. The plastic fuel filter seems to be loosing gas back towards the pump. Next day same routine. Should the bowl of the filter be full? Is this the reason for gas not being pumped to the carb right away?
Thanks Joe

It may be a PITA to do and really seem "Micky Mouse", but I have gotten into the habit of automatically "priming" the carb with about an oz of raw gasoline if the Stude has sat for more that a couple days without having been started up.

THEN it always starts right up, without fail. Just a suggestion.

Karl '62 GT Hawk 4sp

[dynolou2]

It might just be easier to put an electric fuel pump in the kick up area. Wire with a toggle switch, turn on for a minute or less, and crank 'er up. It will also help on those hot days when vapor lock rears it's ugly head. Lou Cote [8D]