Painting the family crest

[Lothar]

The Studebaker crest on my 1950 Champion hood has lost its paint and is down to brass. I want to restore the paint. Do you use plain old brown metal primer on brass? Can I use enamel model paint to finish it, then clearcoat it? Any other ideas?

1950 Champion 4 Dr.
Holdrege NE

[BobGlasscock]

oo, EXCELLENT question Lothar. Glad you asked that.

'50 Champion, 1 family owner

[stude53]

Using Google, I found the following (I have never tried it).

The classical method for pretreating brass for painting is: 1. Clean the surface to remove oily soils, grease and other foreign matter. 2. Remove paints and clearcoats using paint strippers. 3. Roughen the surface by sanding, blasting or phosphoric acid etching. Alternatives to phosphoric acid etching are wash primer pretreatments or chromate pretreatments.



[img=left]http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j259/stude53/studesmall2.jpg[/img=left]Bob Feaganes (stude53)
53 Starliner Hardtop
Newton Grove, NC

[Deaf Mute]

Being a sign painter, I have some experience in this. I would get the brass as clean as possible.. perhaps a walnut shell blasting, or a chemical... but DO NOT USE SOMETHING HARSH!
As far as paint; it gets a little expensive to buy the paint in the quantities available verses the little bit you will actually use. About the best lettering enamel now available is ONE SHOT lettering enamel. Some art stores sell it, all sign supply places a=carry it, as does Eastwood. Purchase a high quality small brush from where you get the paint. You will probably not have to thin the paint, as it flows really well when newly opened. Take your time and you should end up with a good finish. Let it dry several hours between color changes. When it is all done, let it sit for at least a couple weeks before applying automotive wax or sealer to it. You asked about clear over the top. Usually that works OK, but I have had problems a couple of times and have since not topped it with anything. On a commercial sign (on metal, glass, etc.,) I just letter it, clean my brush, submit the bill and walk away from a completed job. The lettering will last for years. (Some bright colors will eventually fade in direct sunlight.)
[8D]


duane miller

[JDP]

Buying the needed paint might pay for part of the repro crest and the repro is real pretty.

JDP/Maryland
"I'm a great believer in luck and I find the harder I work, the more I have of it."
Thomas Jefferson

[vegas paul]

I bought one from Richard Quinn after I asked the similar question regarding my hood emblem for my 51. His repro is superb and looks far better than anything I could have done myself (and I'm relatively artsy, but my eyes are getting too old for fine detail). Anyway, the repro is fantastic.

Las Vegas, NV - Stop by, coffee's on!
'51 Champion Business Coupe G899965 10G-Q4-1434

[Lothar]

Deaf Mute
Thanks for the painting pointers. Is lettering enamel paint a lot better than model paint enamel (which is more readily available)?


1950 Champion 4 Dr.
Holdrege NE

Vegas Paul
I like to think that my hands are still steady enough to do a decent job painting it. How would they have done it in the factory? Did Studebaker make the emblems, or were they sub-contracted to some foundry?
By the way, where did you get the re-pro part?

[StudeRich]

Again I say: most of us Studebaker Vendors at studebakervendors.com have these, as well as all available Studebaker Parts! No need to search the world, when we ALL are at your fingertips and have it all, in each place!

Studebaker did not make any emblems, nameplates, ornaments etc. they were purchased. Some are Roth, others vary with year. These small parts manufacturers, mostly in the Indiana, Mich. area of the U.S. yes U.S.! (There was a time when we made our own things! Lol!) were very good at detailing and had masks etc. to do multiple colors quickly and very nicely for many applications and Customers! [^]

StudeRich
Studebakers Northwest
Ferndale, WA

[Marcus8675]

ok, someone can tell me this is a horiable idea but....

I had the exact same issue. 1950 champ with bare brass crest. I cleaned it up best I could, roughed it up and then used finger nail polish and a small brush. It looks excellent!! The pollish naturally flowed smooth and color match was easy. It looks great and has lasted rain and shine.

[Deaf Mute]

Model paint isn't of the same quality as the professional paint and will probably last months instead of years.
I can't stress enough the need for a QUALITY paint brush, however.

duane miller

[vegas paul]

Lothar - I got my repro from Richard Quinn (on this forum - strange he hasn't chimed in on this yet, since his repros are fantastic) I believe it was $75. When I asked a similar question on this forum, his product was suggested, and also Matthew Burnette mentioned he'd gotten one and made a belt buckle out of his old (tarnished brass) one! Great idea.

Las Vegas, NV - Stop by, coffee's on!
'51 Champion Business Coupe G899965 10G-Q4-1434

[StudeRich]

Paul; where do you think the Studebaker Vendors get them from?

Ditto the hub caps and some wheel Covers!

quote:Originally posted by vegas paul

Lothar - I got my repro from Richard Quinn

StudeRich
Studebakers Northwest
Ferndale, WA