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1951 Champio Speedometer Removal

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  • 1951 Champio Speedometer Removal

    This is probably a simple question, but how do I remove the speedometer from my 51 Champion? (I need to get it serviced.) Everything seems so tight there. Do I need to take out the front seat?
    Thanks for your help!
    Steve

  • #2
    The shop manual has a very good description of how to do this, including picutes/diagrams. This includes either removal of just the speedo, or the entire instrument cluster. Removing the seat makes the gymnastics easier, but it is not necessary. I remove the seat for almost every interior job, just because I'm not very flexible and avoiding a kink in my back/neck is worth the effort.

    Las Vegas, NV - Stop by, coffee's on!
    '51 Champion Business Coupe G899965 10G-Q4-1434

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    • #3
      Got your speedo out yet? If you don't have the shop manual (that I referenced above) I can post some instructions tomorrow - my CD version of my shop manual is at work... Of course I'll only do it during my "breaks" !!!! Fortunately, I I don't have anyone looking over my shoulder in my office, so let me know - I will try to post the directions for speedo removal tomorrow. BTW, the shop manual is essential for many other things, not only this project, get one if you don't have it. I got the hard copies (all greasy and ripped by now) and the CD that includes shop manual, body parts manual, chassis parts manual, and more on one CD. I love perusing the electronic version (at work!) to set up my weekend projects.

      Las Vegas, NV - Stop by, coffee's on!
      '51 Champion Business Coupe G899965 10G-Q4-1434

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      • #4
        Hi Paul,
        Thanks for your help! I did dig up the shop manual and will follow the directions there. I tried once before but everything seemed so hard to reach that I think I really need to remove the front seat! (I assume that only involved removing a few bolts?)
        Best regards,
        Steve

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        • #5
          Steve - removing the front seat will save your back and neck some pain... It also gives you the excuse to clean out stuff that gets down inside that area. Additionally, you can retighten all the bolts when you reinstall the seat - they tend to loosen with time. If you are only taking out the speedo (not the entire cluster) I recommend removing the E-brake handle and light switch and ignition switch first - that clears up some room to manipulate things... then it's only 4 screws to remove the speedo.

          If you don't have a speedo shop already chosen, or if you can't repair it yourself, I highly recommend United Speedometer in Riverside, CA. Great service and rates, and they can re-do the artwork for you also, if desired. They have the templates for all Studebaker models for repainting artwork. Here's the link: http://www.speedometershop.com/


          Las Vegas, NV - Stop by, coffee's on!
          '51 Champion Business Coupe G899965 10G-Q4-1434

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          • #6
            Paul,
            Thanks much for all the info!
            Steve
            PS I posted another question on horn buttons last night. Are you an expert on those too?

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            • #7
              Hi Guys,
              I finally started to take the speedo out. What a pain! I took out the seat. Then I also had to unscrew the flasher.
              The speedo still won't come out (no room). I guess I have to remove the vent cable. I have it loose on the vent door. How does the knob come off? Or doesn't it? How do you get that cable out?!
              Thank much!
              Steve[?]

              Comment


              • #8
                Don't try to remove the vent cable knob... remove it at the passenger side vent door and pull it out, cable and all. You will have to remove the various clips along the firwall that is holding this cable in place. Remove brake and clutch pedal pads to get a little more head room, but you will (guaranteed) bump, poke, scratch and curse while doing this!

                If the speedo isnt the only item you are concerned with, have you considered removing the entire dash? This may sound intimidating, but it's not. Very easy, and you can repair/clean/paint etc. everything on your bench. Easier on the back and mind. Also you can install extra grounds and bench test all gauges prior to re-installing.

                Las Vegas, NV - Stop by, coffee's on!
                '51 Champion Business Coupe G899965 10G-Q4-1434

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                • #9
                  Paul,
                  Thanks much!
                  But I'm not sure that I understand your suggestion on the cable. I've got it disconnected at the vent door and clips loose. It's been tough trying to turn the metal piece that is under the knob & goes through the dash. But even if I get this unscrewed, will it pull out from the front? Or am I off base here?
                  Thanks much,
                  Steve

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                  • #10
                    There is a nut behind the dash - unscrew that and pull the cable through the nut.

                    Las Vegas, NV - Stop by, coffee's on!
                    '51 Champion Business Coupe G899965 10G-Q4-1434

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                    • #11
                      Paul,
                      Thanks much! And id I do decide to take off the dash. How tough is it?
                      Best regards,
                      Steve

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                      • #12
                        Taking off the dash is only 6 nuts! Of course, you have to disconnect everything else including the steering column (just lower it, don't remove it), all electrical connections and mechanical connections such as hood release, OD cable, etc. But you probably want to service, lube, restore these items anyway. Besides, it's a great time to paint your dash when everything is removed!

                        With the dash on your workbench, you can re-install every instrument and ensure all connections/terminals are clean, free of stray grounds, etc. If you are replacing or repairing your wiring harness, this is a good time to do this as well. I just copied the old harness and built my own on a 4x8' sheet of plywood, using tacks to lay out the old one and duplicate the new one. The shop manual has the color and wire gage key to build your own.

                        Las Vegas, NV - Stop by, coffee's on!
                        '51 Champion Business Coupe G899965 10G-Q4-1434

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                        • #13
                          Paul,
                          Thanks again!
                          Steve

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                          • #14
                            Remember to D/C the battery when sticking your hands up under there, to prevent unintentional shorts. Also be careful moving that cotton jacketed wiring too far, as the insulation sometimes becomes brittle w/age.[8]

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                            • #15
                              Excellent points BruceStude... which is why I replace/recreated my entire front wiring harness when I removed my dash. I discovered petrified cotton surrounding very brittle copper.

                              Las Vegas, NV - Stop by, coffee's on!
                              '51 Champion Business Coupe G899965 10G-Q4-1434

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