Old car vs new fluids

[jlmccuan]

I need to do a total fluids change on an R2 car. Is there a comprehensive summary somewhere which has the modern day products or additives needed for:

Engine Oil
Coolant
Automatic Trans Fluid
Brake Fluid
Gasoline
Power Steering Fluid
Supercharger Oil

Are modern synthetics appropriate?

Thanks,
Jim

Jim

_________1966 Avanti II RQA 0088______________Rabid Snail Racing

[Mike Van Veghten]

Why would they be any different than filling up your 08 xxxxx?

Just buy brand name stuff!

Engine oil...don't worry about cam/engine failure....my 259 powered 59 Lark gets driven nearly every day with Castrol GTX 20-50 in the pan.....almost 8 years now...zero oil related problems!

My new, high dollar (Ross pistons, Crower rods, custom work on the crank, high dollar cylinder heads) 299 Stude engine that's being built will be getting a steady diet of Mobil-1 15-50 oil in it when it's ready.
So yes...modern synthetic are fine! The oil has no clue how old the engine is!

Mike

[StudeRich]

Mike there's only one little problem with your "longevity theory" on running your engine on GTX Dino Oil, for 8 years without ZDDP!

You've only been doing that since Nov. 2006 or much later if you or your supplier had a good stock of pre-inviro Oil! Does not prove a thing, especially if it has had even hard but, limited use!

I don't think anyone can actually say that you are 100% wrong! But all of the scientific test data and info from the Oil Co. Techs./Scientists sure does point to that.

The very latest info seems to be leaning toward the 40's & 50 high range oils (20/50 etc.) actually having some ZDDP, but it does not seem to be certain YET as to the brands of non-Synthetic oils that do.

Only one Co. ...Castrol, has actually come out and said that THEIR Syntec full Sythentic ONLY in 20W-50 Wt. is suitable for flat tappet cam engines.

I really am NOT trying to start another major battle here, just trying to state the FACTS as we have heard them to this date!

StudeRich -Studebakers Northwest Ferndale, WA

[Warren Webb]

I put sythetic power steering fluid in my 63 Hawk & in a short time the seals in the control valve let go to the point where the car leaves a trail of oil. I am now in the process of changing the control valve & going back to regular dextron transmission oil.

60 Lark convertible
61 Champ
62 Daytona convertible
63 G.T. R-2,4 speed
63 Avanti (2)
66 Daytona Sport Sedan

[Mike Van Veghten]

Mr. Rich -

quoteoes not prove a thing, especially if it has had even hard but, limited use!

Limited use......? what?

From the grocery store, 1/3 a mile away to hot rod outings over 350 miles away...AGAIN in case you missed it, nearly every day!

Where do you get limited use from?

Please don't speak for me of things you have absolutely no clue...!

I also did something about 6 months ago that "should" have killed this engine dead on the road without you precious ZDDP...guess what...still running just fine...no obvious blowby, plugs look great!!!
The Castrol GTX held up just great!

Now for your ZDDP additive.......
One thing you doom sayers cry about is the lack of zink! If you read far enough...you'll find that OTHER additives have been included to counter the removal of the zink!
Do some true study...it IS out there!

Mike

[StudeRich]

It makes no difference how you drive your car, you have not had 8 years of driving on the oil you will be using tomorrow, to flatten the cam ...YET!

quote:Originally posted by Mike Van Veghten

Limited use......? what?

StudeRich
Studebakers Northwest
Ferndale, WA

[Swifster]

Rich, 20W50 is considered 'racing' oil by the government and ZDDP is the same as it ever was. 20, 30 and 40 weight oils are affected by the change, but 50 is not. Once my 289 is rebuilt, it will get a steady diet of Mobil 1 20W50.

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Tom - Mulberry, FL

1964 Studebaker Daytona - 289 4V, 4-Speed (Cost To Date: $2125.60)

[jlmccuan]

Does anyone use the Royal Purple products?

Jim

_________1966 Avanti II RQA 0088______________Rabid Snail Racing

[Swifster]

quote:Originally posted by jlmccuan

Does anyone use the Royal Purple products?

I've never used it but have only heard good things, just like any other synthetic. While I've used Mobil 1 products in the engine and rear ends, I've used Red Line products for my transmissions. I'm sure Royal Purple will equally satisfy

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Tom - Mulberry, FL

1964 Studebaker Daytona - 289 4V, 4-Speed (Cost To Date: $2125.60)

[hank63]

Governments can be so lovely, can't they? I didn't know I've driven all my different cars on racing oil for the last 30 years. Only 1 exception, which got 30/60 to keep down the oil burning a wee bit. I also have never had any engine oil related problems from using 20/50 oil.
/H

[jallen]

I think many people would agree that changing to synthetic oil in an
engine that isn't recently rebuilt is asking for problems. Mr. Webb
had an experience that might have been a coincidence if it weren't so
common. The advantage to modern lubricants is not only better purity but lighter viscosity, which leads to better cooling and
lubrication. I would stay with conventional fluids if I didn't plan
on rebuilding everything, and meybe a 5-30 weight oil if you felt like experimenting.

[Swifster]

The only well used engine that I switched to synthetic was in my Suzuki Swift GTi race car (ITB). The car had 108K on it when I bought it and was parked for good with over 150K on it (it was street legal). I never had a problem with leaks. Now this was a Japanese engine built in '89, so it's a lot more modern that a Studebaker. The same is true with the transaxle filled with Redline. Never a problem.

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Tom - Mulberry, FL

1964 Studebaker Daytona - 289 4V, 4-Speed (Cost To Date: $2125.60)

[fmarshall]

Here is what I run in my R2:

Engine Oil = Kendall GT1 - the old green oil 20w50, after which I'm going to BradPenn
Coolant - FLAPS recommended
Automatic Trans Fluid - I have a 4-speed - I run redline
Brake Fluid - dot 4
Gasoline - 91 octane plus some occasional 100 octane, when I want to hit high rpms
Power Steering Fluid - I have manual
Supercharger Oil - Redline sythetic racing Type F

========================
63 Avanti R2, 4-Speed, 3.73 TT
Martinez, CA

[grobb284]

The only thing I can recommend is silicone brake fluid.
I have used it for over 25 years in a series of collector cars, never a problem, and a lot of benefits.

Keeps the rubber soft, and acts just like Armorall.

No worry about damaging paint.

No internally rusted lines or cylinders.

I've heard a lot of naysaying over the years from other people about silicone fluid, but none from those that actually used it.





1963 Studebaker Avanti: C4 Corvette narrowed front/rear suspension, C5 13" calipers/rotors adapted to C4, Viper differential with Intrax 3.54 ratio (the snake has been charmed!), coil overs, stainless tubular frame, stainless chambered side exhaust.
Here are two links for some pictures and information.
Slide Show
Magazine Article