HAVE YOU TRIED NEW USC ALL METAL

[Jimmie]

Has anyone tried this?
In the Eastwood Catalogue for April on page 21 there is a product that sounds pretty good. "Can be drilled and tapped" "Excellent adhesion and rustproofing properties" "finishes to a smooth finish and seals out moisture" "Works similar to lead"
Quart-$21.99 Gallon-$$74.99

Jimmie

1950 2 timer
Orleans, Indiana

[Studeman]

I use USC All Metal all the time. It;s not exactly "new" I have used it for years.. It's just like regular body-filler, but much harder. It is good for "building" in places where there are damaged edges and bodylines. I really wouldn't use it in a place for drilling/tapping... but perhaps for light things. I use it for any welded seams I have from replacing metal.
Good product, but as you see- it's pretty expensive.

Ray


Specializing in Studebaker Restoration

[Roscomacaw]

Ray, Is this stuff anything like the product called Lab Metal?

Miscreant Studebaker nut in California's central valley.

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President two door

[Studeman]

quote:Originally posted by Mr.Biggs

Ray, Is this stuff anything like the product called Lab Metal?
[/i]

I have never used LM- but I think that is more of an epoxy like JB-Weld.

All-Metal is a filler much like Bondo. But it uses a peroxide based liquid-hardener. It's like polyester resin with powdered aluminum in it. It is very fine-grained.
I use it for welded-seams, rebuilding damaged body-lines, steering wheels, and other areas where Body-Filler would just be too soft.

Ray


Specializing in Studebaker Restoration

[bams50]

Good to know, Ray. How hard is it to work as opposed to regular body filler?

Robert (Bob) Andrews Owner- Studebakeracres- on the IoMT (Island of Misfit Toys!)
Parish, central NY 13131

"Some people live for the rules, I live for exceptions"- 311

"It was the last chance for Studebaker to turn things around. The company was down to its last bullet, and this new small car was it. They called it the Lark"

[Studeman]

quote:Originally posted by bams50

Good to know, Ray. How hard is it to work as opposed to regular body filler?[/i]

Well, it rather depends on how large an area we're talking about. If you are doing just small areas, filling chips, seams etc.. then there's virtually no difference. It sands almost as easy- especially in grits 180 and coarser. For large areas- such as when I do front fender repair, the biggest "problem" is that it forms a sticky surface layer that feels like it's not cured enough yet. This layer gums the paper quickly. However- once that layer is off- it just powders- and doesn't clog the paper at all.

Ray


Specializing in Studebaker Restoration

[Roscomacaw]

Lab metal's not two-part. Not cheap either. It's thicker'n fudge from the can and you use it's thinner (seperate can) to get it to the consistency you require.
I just used it for the first time about 2 weeks ago. Kinda tough to use in hot weather as it constantly wants to skin over unless you've got thinned quite a bit. Seemed to do well once it set up. Sands like Bondo.

Miscreant Studebaker nut in California's central valley.

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President two door