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  • problem with starting lark

    the only other problem we have with my lark,is starting it. sometimes it starts fine, no problem. sometimes it is hard to start. we got a rebuilt starter on ebay........maybe it wasnt a good one? maybe the float on the carb sticks? we also got the carb on ebay,remanufactured, it looked like in good shape. maybe a bad carb? my husband has a problem with his starter on his president, he thinks it is the bendix drive, we won a nos bendix drive on ebay that we have yet to get. he took his starter apart and put it back together, his he thinks it is the bendix. hopefully that will fix his problem. my lark, not sure. after pumping the gas pedal a couple of times it fires up, but sometimes it dont. it is frustrating sometimes when i am in a hurry,and i have to sit in a parking lot trying to start the car.

  • #2
    The block may need the freeze plugs removed and the block cleaned out. The head may have warped when it got hot, and needs a new head gasket.If you go to the search feature at the top, there are a set of instructions on how to clean out a block. It is a labor of love, you gotta love the car to do it, but it is worth it.

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    • #3
      Judy, first of all, Welcome to the Forum! Sorry your first visit here is necessitated by a problem, though.

      The Diagnosis section of the Shop Manual lists these causes for overheating:
      • slipping fan belt
      • block or head passages clogged
      • radiator core clogged
      • head gasket or water pump gasket improperly installed
      • water hoses collapsed
      • thermostat defective or upside down
      • pump impeller loose on shaft
      • not enough coolant
      • bent fan blade
      • ignition timing too early or late
      • preignition (detonation)
      • excessive engine friction dut to tight bearings
      • slipping clutch
      • dragging brakes
      • tight wheel bearings
      • oil in the coolant
      • guage isn't reading correctly


      As you can see, there's a lot of things it could be. I'd start with the easy stuff (checking the fan blades, inspect the thermostat for proper operation, check the gaskets) before pulling the freeze plugs and rooting around with a coat hanger


      [img=left]http://members.cox.net/clarknovak/lark.gif[/img=left]

      Clark in San Diego
      '63 F2/Lark Standard

      The Official Website of the San Diego Chapter of the Studebaker Drivers Club. Serving San Diego County

      Clark in San Diego | '63 Standard (F2) "Barney" | http://studeblogger.blogspot.com

      Comment


      • #4
        Perhaps you could install a thermostatically controlled fan on the radiator, or one with a switch inside the car, like some do here - then when it gets hot, on with the fan and cooler it gets.

        John Clements
        Avantilover, your South Australian Studebaker lover!!!
        Secretary Studebaker Car Club of SA (as of 3/19/08)
        Lockleys South Australia
        John Clements
        Christchurch, New Zealand

        Comment


        • #5
          The remote fan is a good idea. But the first thing I would do is check the timing. A little advanced might help. Also make sure the vacume advance is working. When you replaced/rebuilt the engine and radiator some people may put in straight antifreeze thinking its a good idea....its not. Make sure the coolant is a 50/50 mix, it will transfer heat way more efficiently. Water wetter may also be slight help, its available at a parts store.

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          • #6
            How hot is the engine actually getting (not the temperature gauge reading)? Does the car boil over and loose its coolant? Does the car get hot standing still, going down the road or both?

            Before going to band-aid type fixes, like adding an electric fan, you should find out if you really have a problem and, if so, correct the actual cause of the problem.

            My first long distance guesses are; timing, bad water pump, collapsing hose or not realy a problem.

            The coolant should either be all water or a 50/50 mix of antifreeze. Fill the radiator when the engine is cool and only fill to about 1 to 1 1/2 inches below the fill neck.

            A Lark six should not be putting out an excessive amount of heat and the Lark has a grille that lets plenty of air get through the radiator.

            Gary L.
            Wappinger, NY

            SDC member since 1968
            Studebaker enthusiast much longer
            Gary L.
            Wappinger, NY

            SDC member since 1968
            Studebaker enthusiast much longer

            Comment


            • #7
              topic was problem with regal lark 59.my husband rebuilt the engine and cleaned everything. we got a recored radiator in good condition.the timing is ok, the antifreeze and water we do right, the thermostat is brand new and in the right position. i think i will try the fan idea. i dont like to park my stude in the garage when it is hot outside. my pink "lady lark" as i named it is really special to me and it is meant to be driven and enjoyed, and do immensely enjoy my beautiful stude! thanks everyone for the ideas, i appreciate your feedback and input and suggestions,and for graciously replying.

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              • #8
                I recently did some troubleshooting on my cooling system. My car is a 64 Wagonaire with a V8 and automatic. It would run hot all the time. I found the radiator to be blocked about 30% and fixed that. Still running a little hot, so I replaced the water pump. Helped a little more. Flushed the system twice and so far have had no more trouble. Not currently running a thermostat.

                sals54
                sals54

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                • #9
                  Unless it is obviously boiling over, I believe I would verify with a known good temperature gauge the temperature it is actually running.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Judy - I have had even new thermostats come out of the box bad. There is a fail safe thermostat that was recommended to me and I'm happy with it. http://www.motoradusa.com/ Click on the thermostat for details. I got mine at Auto Zone. Take the one you now have in the car in with you and use a new gasket.
                    Welcome to the forum!

                    Western Washington, USA

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Judy,
                      A couple of years ago, I had an "overheating" problem in my '59 Lark Regal VI.
                      I was going crazy, replacing the thermostat & flushing out the cooling system. But I found the culprit. It was the original temperature sending unit, which is attached to the head. All I had to do was replace the sending unit and all was well. The car was NEVER overheating in the first place. I wonder if your problem is the same. Check it out, before you go spending all kinds of money.
                      Studebaker International has the part.
                      Hope this helps.
                      Rog

                      '59 Lark VI Regal Hardtop
                      Smithtown,NY
                      '59 Lark VI Regal Hardtop
                      Smithtown,NY
                      Recording Secretary, Long Island Studebaker Club

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        i have one more problem. sometimes the stude will start up fine, no problem, other times, it doesnt want to start. will only start if i pump the gas pedal a couple of times and even then it sometimes wont start,it is a pain.( my husbands car the president has the same problem , is it because the cars are old...... or is it the mechancial thing. my husband did get a nos bendix drive on ebay for his, hoping that will fix his problem.) do you think the gas float is sticking? we replaced the starter with a rebuilt one, dont know if that is the problem, or the carb. we replaced the carb with a remanufactured one,and it look in good shape.......... we got it off of ebay.......... perhaps maybe didnt get a good one?

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                        • #13
                          Judy, does this happen after the cars have been sitting a while? If so, it sounds like the common problem of today's gas evaporating out of the bowl, causing the gas system to be "dry" when starting. Some folks install electric fuel pumps with an auto-shutoff to prime the system upon first starting; others remove the mechanical pump altogether and rely exclusively on the electric pump.


                          [img=left]http://members.cox.net/clarknovak/lark.gif[/img=left]

                          Clark in San Diego
                          '63 F2/Lark Standard

                          The Official Website of the San Diego Chapter of the Studebaker Drivers Club. Serving San Diego County

                          Clark in San Diego | '63 Standard (F2) "Barney" | http://studeblogger.blogspot.com

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Either describe the symptoms more precisely such as exactly when it acts up as far as cold, warmed up, rainy weather, hot outside, cold outside, long trip, short trip, how long it cranks before starting, how many pumps cold, how many pumps hot, does it help to get a jump, new battery cables, old dirty battery connections, engine to body ground strap, heat riser stuck, cracked fuel lines...wait, I'm getting a headache.

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