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View Full Version : That @#$% transmission spacer...



showbizkid
07-27-2008, 07:49 PM
OK, after realizing that the transmission spacer was installed on the wrong side of the car (passenger's side instead of driver's), I went out today and jacked up the trans pan, loosened the x-member bolts, and managed to wiggle the spacer out off of the passenger's side transmission mount stud.

But there was no way, no matter how much I tried, that I could gain enough space to insert the spacer on the driver's side (which, as StudeRich noted, has a stud 1/2" longer just for this purpose).

So here's my question: is there any harm in just bolting up everything nice and snug without the spacer and driving it to the trans shop to have them drop the x-member and install the @#$% spacer? [:I] What will happen if I drive without it?

I feel I'm really close to getting the car rolling, and I think I'm ill-equipped to handle this particular bit of minutiae myself...

...Unless y'all have some suggestions on how to do it without me busting my cuss-bone! [}:)]


[img=left]http://members.cox.net/clarknovak/lark.gif[/img=left]

Clark in San Diego
'63 F2/Lark Standard
http://studeblogger.blogspot.com
www.studebakersandiego.com

Tom B
07-27-2008, 07:59 PM
Git under the car, take the weight off the cross memeber with a jack and jack stand or cribbing, (push up on the transmission) unbolt the left side thru-the-crossmemeber nut and the two screws holding the mount to the bellhousing. Disassemble the mounting unit,(take it off the car) put the spacer in and return the two bolts to the BH. Return the nut and washers to the stud. There may be some additional jacking involved to get the assembly back together.

This should save you a trip to the shop.

[img=left]http://www.alink.com/personal/tbredehoft/Avatar1.jpg[/img=left]
Tom Bredehoft
'53 Commander Coupe
'55 President (6H Y6) State Sedan
(Under Construction 379 hrs.)
'05 Legacy Ltd Wagon
All Indiana built cars

bige
07-27-2008, 08:37 PM
Can't you just stick some body shims (open on one side) stacked to the right height and call it a day?
ErnieR

http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r241/AvantiR2/track.jpg

showbizkid
07-27-2008, 09:37 PM
I remember reading here not long ago about someone welding up a bunch of washers to the right thickness and cutting a notch to slide them in. I suppose I could fire up the Dremel and cut a slice out of one of the Stude washers and accomplish the same thing. It's not going to go anywhere, right?


[img=left]http://members.cox.net/clarknovak/lark.gif[/img=left]

Clark in San Diego
'63 F2/Lark Standard
http://studeblogger.blogspot.com
www.studebakersandiego.com

fpstude
07-28-2008, 01:37 AM
I'll be watching any responses to Clark's question. After a little cleaning in this area of the underside of our Hawk, replacing the transmission mounts is the next step.

Perry
'23 Special Six,
'50 Business Champ,
'50 Starlight Champ,
'60 Lark droptop,
'63 GT R1

Roscomacaw
07-28-2008, 01:47 AM
Clark, I think your idea would work fine.;)

Miscreant Studebaker nut in California's central valley.

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President two door

clarkwd
07-29-2008, 10:29 PM
Heres my post from June 29
http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=10555&SearchTerms=spacer

A couple weeks ago, I made a stack of washers the right thickness and sawed a slot in the stack. I welded all but one together. I turned the top one 90 degrees and drilled and tapped a hole in the stack and put a clearance hole in the top washer. I jacked up the transmission (see my old post) and with the stud still through the cross member, slid the stack in with the one loose washer on the bottom, and put the screw in to hold the bottom one in place and keep the stack from falling out. Then I let the transmission down and put on the washer, lock washer and nut.
Bill

laughinlark
07-29-2008, 10:44 PM
I agree with Tom B. It would take about the same amount of time to support the trans and remove the mount to install the spacer. Verses welding and cutting, ect.:D

Gordon

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t60/laughinlark/gordsjsmk-1.jpghttp://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t60/laughinlark/11-28-07130-1.jpghttp://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t60/laughinlark/all283.jpg

showbizkid
08-03-2008, 12:13 AM
Well, I did it a little different :)

I took my Dremel and cut a slice out of the spacer as shown below, filed it smooth and slid it around the stud with the open section facing down. Let down the trans and torqued the nut to spec. I figure with all that weight on it, it's not going to go anywhere :)

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q26/clarknovak/misc/CIMG1798.jpg

Thanks to all for your help!


[img=left]http://members.cox.net/clarknovak/lark.gif[/img=left]

Clark in San Diego
'63 F2/Lark Standard
http://studeblogger.blogspot.com
www.studebakersandiego.com

Mark57
08-03-2008, 12:34 AM
quote:Originally posted by showbizkid

Well, I did it a little different :)

I took my Dremel and cut a slice out of the spacer as shown below, filed it smooth and slid it around the stud with the open section facing down. Let down the trans and torqued the nut to spec. I figure with all that weight on it, it's not going to go anywhere :)

Clark in San Diego



"Necessity is the mother of invention." [8D];)

<h5>Mark
'57 Transtar Deluxe
Vancouver Island

Are you planning to attend the NW Overdrive Tour in Parksville, BC
May 23 & 24, 2009?</h5>
http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x153/MarkH57/57TranstarSM.jpg

sbca96
08-03-2008, 01:24 AM
This is the correct way to do this install. The mount has to be taken
off the bellhousing, that will give the room needed to lift the mount
high enough to put the spacer on, and back into the crossmember. This
is how I installed them back in the day. Good advice. Theres a chance
that the slotted washer COULD work its way out over time, this is why
Studebaker used a full washer/spacer. Good luck with your mod, but it
would be in your best interest to follow Tom B's advice when you have
more time to make it "right".

Tom


quote:Originally posted by Tom B

Git under the car, take the weight off the cross memeber with a jack and jack stand or cribbing, (push up on the transmission) unbolt the left side thru-the-crossmemeber nut and the two screws holding the mount to the bellhousing. Disassemble the mounting unit,(take it off the car) put the spacer in and return the two bolts to the BH. Return the nut and washers to the stud. There may be some additional jacking involved to get the assembly back together.

'63 Avanti, zinc plated drilled & slotted 03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, soon: TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves, 'R3' 276 cam, Edelbrock AFB Carb, GM HEI distributor, 8.8mm plug wires

showbizkid
08-03-2008, 03:21 AM
I most likely will, since frankly it bugs me to have to do it like this. I have a spare original spacer (with the part number stamped in it!), but this at least gets me further down the path to getting the car running. When it's back on the road (and after the brakes have been gone through), I'll take it to my trans guy and let him bust his knuckles getting that mount off the bellhousing! :)


[img=left]http://members.cox.net/clarknovak/lark.gif[/img=left]

Clark in San Diego
'63 F2/Lark Standard
http://studeblogger.blogspot.com
www.studebakersandiego.com