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52-fan
07-17-2008, 08:33 AM
Since my clutch hung up from water running into the bell housing, I am about to pull the engine in my Daytona. I have the front cap off and am close to removing the engine. Since I will have the engine out, I want to do all those nasty jobs that creep up on old cars. I plan to remove the freeze plugs and clean the coolant passages, replace the belt and hoses, install new oil filter hoses, and new engine mounts. I would also like to reseal the engine.
What gaskets and other materials would you more experienced guys suggest? How deep should I go? My brother and I have some engine gaskets already, but I don't want to get started and come up short.

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s186/52-fan/StudebakersofArkansas2-1.jpg
1952 Champion Starlight, 1962 Daytona.Searcy,Arkansas
"I may be lazy, but I'm not shiftless."

N8N
07-17-2008, 08:43 AM
I'd probably just do valve covers, timing cover, and oil pan, that will stop 90% of the leaks if you do it right. You'll need to remove the water pump and manifold if you're going to remove the timing cover and filler block however, so you'll pretty much need a full engine gasket set minus the head gaskets. Since you'll have the pan and timing cover off you might as well replace the front and rear main seals as well and also check the condition of the rubber damper inserts.

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

PackardV8
07-17-2008, 09:59 AM
It's your car, your money, but by the time you are that far into the engine, you've done the hard, dirty, time-consuming stuff. Here's my thoughts:

1. If the clutch disc was rusted to the flywheel, back in the po' boy days, I've broken them loose with a pry bar or by pulling it behind a truck and then driven it another five years without a thought. Today, if the engine were out, I'd regrind the flywheel and replace the disc, throwout bearing and maybe the pressure plate.
2. Absolutely, positively, definitely, replace the valve stem seals. It's easy, inexpensive and will often completely stop oil consumption.
3. Consider a valve regrind. Again, easy and inexpensive - can add years to the life of the engine.
4. Consider a brush hone and re-ring. The shop manuals allow for .005-.006" taper in the cylinders before requiring a re-bore. Cleaning the carbon out behind the rings, installing new ones and touching up the cylinders with a brush hone is often good for another 20kmi and more power.
5. Always replace the water pump with the Avanti unit. The one on there is about to fail, usually the month after everything is back together.

thnx, jack vines




PackardV8

rusty nut garage
07-17-2008, 10:02 AM
upgrade to the new neoprene front cover seal, rear main, I'd take it a step further then Nate, inspect the head to block mating surface without removing the heads, if you see any tracy of corrosion or trying to leak, I'd opt for a set of head gaskets also. REplace the studs on the exh flange while your at it, once you get it together it will really piss you off that you didn't look more closely at that when you had the opportunity. (just happend to me last week)


quote:Originally posted by N8N

I'd probably just do valve covers, timing cover, and oil pan, that will stop 90% of the leaks if you do it right. You'll need to remove the water pump and manifold if you're going to remove the timing cover and filler block however, so you'll pretty much need a full engine gasket set minus the head gaskets. Since you'll have the pan and timing cover off you might as well replace the front and rear main seals as well and also check the condition of the rubber damper inserts.

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight
http://members.cox.net/njnagel


Russ Shop Foreman "Rusty Nut Garage"
57 SH (project)
60 Lark VIII 2dr sd (driver)

52-fan
07-17-2008, 11:15 AM
Good stuff here. I've noticed a few things I had not thought about.

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s186/52-fan/StudebakersofArkansas2-1.jpg
1952 Champion Starlight, 1962 Daytona.Searcy,Arkansas
"I may be lazy, but I'm not shiftless."

fmarshall
07-17-2008, 01:30 PM
Actually, for freeing the clutch, I would put the rear securely on jack stands. Then start the car in 3rd or 4th gear with the parking brake released. The rear wheels will be turning. Then just apply the brakes.

If you are pulling the engine for replacement of the clutch, then seals and gaskets and detailing the engine are cool.

========================
63 Avanti R2, 4-Speed, 3.73 TT
Martinez, CA
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd211/fmarshall_bucket/sigpic.jpg

52-fan
07-17-2008, 02:16 PM
Normally I would not go to this much trouble just to free a slightly stuck clutch, but this car had so much water in the bell housing that the starter was also siezed.(See my other thread) I even got the car started in gear and drove it around my house without the clutch coming free. This was a week or so before the starter gave up.

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s186/52-fan/StudebakersofArkansas2-1.jpg
1952 Champion Starlight, 1962 Daytona.Searcy,Arkansas
"I may be lazy, but I'm not shiftless."