Windshield Sealer - need product info

[blackhawk]

I am trying to eliminate water leaks around the rear window of my '64 Cruiser. My tube of 3M Windshield Sealer (Part No. 51135-08511) is almost used up. None of the local auto parts stores carry this product any longer and one told me this is an old part number. I cannot find the product online. Can anyone tell me where I can purchase this 3M sealer or recommend a suitable substitute. I need a flexible sealant to use between the glass and rubber gasket of the windshield and rear window on a car where the glass has been in for some time. I don't know if this is the same sealer used when replacing the glass. It may not be. Thanks.

Dale

[fmarshall]

Maybe this is what you are looking for:

3M bedding & glazing-compound

3M 8509

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63 Avanti R2, 4-Speed, 3.73 TT
Martinez, CA

[blackhawk]

quote:Originally posted by fmarshall

Maybe this is what you are looking for:

3M bedding & glazing-compound

3M 8509

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63 Avanti R2, 4-Speed, 3.73 TT
Martinez, CA

Thanks for the suggestion. I looked it up. "3M Auto Bedding and Glazing Compound-8509. Non-hardening, pliable, water-resistant, medium-bodied sealer for sealing auto seams and between windshield rubber and car body. " This product would be easy to apply during installation of the glass because you have the glass out of the rubber and the rubber out of the car. In a situation where the glass is already installed, it will be difficult to get the sealer between the glass and the rubber using the thick nozzle that comes on the cartridge. I think I need to keep looking. I may have to go to the auto glass shops in town and see what they use.

Dale

[fmarshall]

Hmmn, I did see where Permatex makes something similar to the older 3M stuff. Permatex 81730

Permatex. Wicking action silicone seeks the leak. Flows into hidden and hard-to-reach areas. Forms a tough, waterproof, durable clear seal that is resistant to weather, extreme temperatures, vibration, shock, and most shop chemicals. Fills surface voids and irregularities. Temperature range -80 F. to 450F. Suggested applications: Windshields, sunroofs, windows, headlamp assemblies, marine glass, RV vents, and windows. 1.5 fl. oz. tube. Carded.
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63 Avanti R2, 4-Speed, 3.73 TT
Martinez, CA

[KGlowacky]

The 3m bedding sealer is what I have been using for years. I seen two different glass shops use it on old rubber windshield gaskets like we all have. Here is a little trick. Put masking tape all around the glass where it meets the rubber. Then cut a small hole in the plastic tube and go all around the glass forcing the tube between the rubber and glass. Let it oozse(sp) out, That is why the masking tape is there. After it sets up pull the tape off on a angle and you will have NO sealent to clean off the winshield and it will stop the leaks with a very sharp edge. Also be real careful not to use these new glass sealants as they will harden and be a major problem soon. Good Luck.

[blackhawk]

quote:Originally posted by KGlowacky

The 3m bedding sealer is what I have been using for years. I seen two different glass shops use it on old rubber windshield gaskets like we all have. Here is a little trick. Put masking tape all around the glass where it meets the rubber. Then cut a small hole in the plastic tube and go all around the glass forcing the tube between the rubber and glass. Let it oozse(sp) out, That is why the masking tape is there. After it sets up pull the tape off on a angle and you will have NO sealent to clean off the winshield and it will stop the leaks with a very sharp edge. Also be real careful not to use these new glass sealants as they will harden and be a major problem soon. Good Luck.

Thanks. I will give it a try. I didn't think I could get the tube between the glass and the rubber, but if others can I should be able to. I have often had trouble even getting the small nozzle on a squeeze tube into that space, even when pulling a screwdriver ahead of the tip. Thanks for the tip on use of masking tape. I should have thought of that. We do that when painting so should have been obvious.

FMarshall - I have used the Permatex. It is widely available in box stores even and maybe just as good but I can't swear to that. Guess I am a bit skeptical.

Dale

[Tom Bredehoft]

You might be able to pre-soften the rubber with the application of a quantity of liquid dish soap, not dish washer soap, but Dawn, or something like that.

[img=left]http://www.alink.com/personal/tbredehoft/Avatar.jpg[/img=left]
Tom Bredehoft
'53 Commander Coupe
'55 President (6H Y6) State Sedan
(Under Construction) 353 hrs.
'05 Legacy Ltd Wagon
All Indiana built cars

[KGlowacky]

Don't use a screw driver!!!!. If the rubber is that hard you may not be able to get the tip in there.

[blackhawk]

quote:Originally posted by KGlowacky

Don't use a screw driver!!!!. If the rubber is that hard you may not be able to get the tip in there.

The rubber is not all that hard. There just isn't much room between the glass and rubber with the trim moulding on the outside of the rubber. I run a flat tip screw driver between the glass and rubber followed by blast of air to get dirt and old sealer out before putting in new sealer. Then sometimes use the screw driver tip to open the gap so the nozzle tip on the tube of sealer can be inserted and slid along between the glass and rubber. A squeeze tube doesn't hold its shape well, so it is hard sometimes to move the nozzle tip along the glass. Carefully done, this procedure helps get the sealer in the groove where it is needed. I've done this many times over the years without a problem.

Dale

[Rerun]

Note that the rear window moulding on the '64 models is held on by clips, not set in a groove of the gasket like the windshield. Consult the shop manual to see how to release the clips and remove the moulding. I use a 90 degree pick. With the moulding removed, you can lift the rubber gasket more easily. The down side is if the clips are rusted and break, the window must be removed to replace the clips.

I would NOT use the bedding compound between the glass and the rubber. It is too thick for this use, as it is intended for sealing between the gasket and the body fence. As noted above, there are thinner sealers that will wick into the gap better.

I would NOT use a screwdriver to lift the rubber from the glass. The slightest chip at the edge of the glass can cause the window to crack. Use a wooden or plastic tool that cannot chip or scratch the glass.

Jim Bradley
Lewistown PA
'64 Daytona HT "Rerun"

[raprice]

I used the Permatex stuff a number of years ago on the rear window rubber of my Lark. Water was leaking into my trunk and I diagnosed it as water leaking through the gap between the rubber and glass.
Well, the stuff worked great and I haven't had a leaking rear window molding since.
The Permatex stuff was clear and flowed well into the gap.
Rog

'59 Lark VI Regal Hardtop

[gordr]

[OzarkPetunia]

I used the Permatex Flowable Silicone (81730) all the way around the rear window of my Flight Hawk a couple of weeks ago and completely stopped all the leaking, even where the rubber sags away from the window in the bottom corners. I used a thin putty knife to gently lift the rubber a teeny bit where it was flat against the window and I only cut a very small opening in the tip of the tube.

It's wonderful stuff!

~Rose

Fayetteville, AR

[WCP]

Dominion Sure Seal Ltd. supply a Sure Resealant #9007 in a 16 oz. caulking tube that I use to put a bead on the pinchweld before drawing in the window gasket. I the use Pump Grade Resealant and Liquid Rubber #PRS by the same firm in a sealant pump to flood sealant between the rubber and glass all around the window. The pump guns usually come with a couple of different tips. The one I have has a small round tip to push into the glass/rubber interface, and a needle tip much like a syringe needle for tough to seal locations. The sealant is fairly thick so it will give your hands a good workout, at least that's what my 72 yr old hands say. I flood enough of the sealant to ooze out on the glass, then immediately go around the edge of the rubber on the glass with a sharpened wooden stick (I use a tongue depresser or popcicle stick) to scribe a clear separation line between the rubber and oozed sealant. Let the sealant set up on the glass, and pull it off. Use a razor blade for any remaining cleanup and/or mineral spirits sparingly. Your local auto glass shop should be able to get these materials for you or tell you who can. If you don't want to invest in a pump gun, and you can pry up the rubber sufficiently, then try the caulking tube with a very small hole in the end that can be pressed into the seal area. At least with the caulk gun you can develop substantial pressure to force the sealant in. You won't use much of the 16 oz. but is cheap, relative to the gun.

[dictator27]

To back up what both gordr and WCP are saying, in a past life I used to do a lot of trimwork at dealerships. I used sealer made by a company called Kent. They make a product which comes in a small can to which you screw on an aplicator gun (looks like the pump on a small oil can)with either a round or V shaped flat tip which can be pushed under the windshield weatherstrip without damaging the paint or chipping the w/s. For windshields with clips holding the mouldings on, they supply the same product in a caulking tube. It remains liquid and flows easily into gaps. As suggested put masking tape - preferably 2 inch - on the body or glass before using any sealer. I yahoo'd Kent and could only find their European site www.kenteurope.com, but I also found a recent Technical Service Bulletin from Chrysler regarding windshield water leaks on 2003-07 Dodge Dakotas and Kent was the specified corrective sealant supplier. A trip to your local Chrysler dealer might be in order?

Terry Godkin