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View Full Version : Glory Halleluiah...The Overdrive is Working!



lstude
07-13-2008, 08:52 PM
I have posted several threads about the Overdrive, in my 52 Commander, not working. First it would not go forward in OD, then I changed to a lighter weight oil and it made a horrible grinding sound.

Well I drove it to our chapter meet today (out of overdrive). It was a 50 mile trip. When I got there I wanted our chapter members to hear the grinding noise, so I put it in OD and started forward. It made a slight grinding sound, but no one heard it so I drove it around the field in our club member's yard. It just kept going without any noise.

I drove home (in overdrive), with my son, and it ran just fine. It is amazing how much nicer it drives in OD.

I was overjoyed, but my happiness was tempered by a slight miss under load.

The miss got much worse as we drove. By the time I pulled into my street, at the bottom of the hill, it cut off. It wouldn't start again. A neighbor helped push the car to my house. While we were pushing, I popped the clutch in second, with the key on (out of OD), but it still wouldn't start. At least it is a more minor problem than the overdrive. I guess it is a carburetor problem.


Leonard Shepherd
http://leonardshepherd.com/

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q8/LHSJR/MyStudebakernobackgroundsm.jpg

BobPalma
07-13-2008, 09:11 PM
:) Before you jump into the carb, Lenny, see if it will run in the morning, after it has cooled down. 'Might be as simple as a vapor lock (though not likely to have caused the intermittent miss you suggested).

If not vapor lock, replace the condenser in the distributor..and check the point gap while you are at it; they may have just closed up. (A couple months ago, I towed a member's 1949 Land Cruiser several miles the rest of the way to a chapter meeting at Studebaker International, because his condenser failed when hot.)

If that doesn't work, check the coil...in fact, check the coil anyway; they will sometimes fail when hot and then be OK the next morning.

LOTS of simple things to do before jumping in "the carburetor." ;)[8D]BP

lstude
07-13-2008, 09:17 PM
Thanks Bob,

I will check out your suggestions.

I don't think it is vapor lock, for one it has an electric fuel pump, and it has been doing this intermittent miss for about a couple of weeks even when it is cold, but it was just under load, mainly in second gear at low speeds, but now it is missing all the time.

Leonard Shepherd
http://leonardshepherd.com/

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q8/LHSJR/MyStudebakernobackgroundsm.jpg

lstude
07-14-2008, 11:41 AM
I just went out in the garage and the 52 started instantly, and it didn't seem to mis.

I haven't changed the wiper motor to 12 volt yet, so since it is raining, I didn't drive it.

Maybe it was the heat yesterday, but the temperature gauge stayed on 180.


Leonard Shepherd
http://leonardshepherd.com/

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q8/LHSJR/MyStudebakernobackgroundsm.jpg

Roscomacaw
07-14-2008, 07:46 PM
I'd be looking at that coil! ;)

Miscreant Studebaker nut in California's central valley.

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President two door

stall
07-15-2008, 07:31 PM
I had a problem starting my 37 Chevy and was dumb enough to replace almost everything before I got to the coil. The car started great when cold but had to be push started when hot. Replaced coil and whala everything A-OK. I've since found that most NOS coils are bad so get a new one from Napa or better yet a Studebaker parts vendor.

Good luck and keep us posted please:)

bjhawk
07-15-2008, 08:01 PM
I second the coil suggestion. I had the same experience with my M5. There is an electrical test that will verify a bad coil. I don't remember specifics, but I found it in an older Chiltons or Motor Manual.

Bruce Hawkins

1947 M5 PU

Tom B
07-15-2008, 10:55 PM
One more suggestion concerning coil replacement. Verify that the terminal going to the distributor (primary circuit) has the same sign as the ground terminal on the battery. I.e., if your car is pos ground, the + terminal on the coil goes to the distributor.

If not it will eat your points and destroy the coil.

[img=left]http://www.alink.com/personal/tbredehoft/Avatar.jpg[/img=left]
Tom Bredehoft
'53 Commander Coupe
'55 President (6H Y6) State Sedan
(Under Construction) 353 hrs.
'05 Legacy Ltd Wagon
All Indiana built cars

lstude
07-18-2008, 07:48 AM
quote:One more suggestion concerning coil replacement. Verify that the terminal going to the distributor (primary circuit) has the same sign as the ground terminal on the battery. I.e., if your car is pos ground, the + terminal on the coil goes to the distributor.

If not it will eat your points and destroy the coil.

I changed my 52 over to 12 volt negative ground. I will replace the condenser and coil tomorrow.

I bought the coil at NAPA about a year and a half ago, but it still could be the problem.

Leonard Shepherd
http://leonardshepherd.com/

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q8/LHSJR/MyStudebakernobackgroundsm.jpg

lstude
07-19-2008, 02:14 PM
I put a new coil on my 52 this morning and it still has a mis. I will replace the condenser next.

Leonard Shepherd
http://leonardshepherd.com/

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q8/LHSJR/MyStudebakernobackgroundsm.jpg