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starlightchamp
08-13-2006, 09:34 PM
Looks like only a few inches from manifold to ground. Other Hawk Gt's like this?
http://static.flickr.com/60/214155926_4ea8d3e6de.jpg?v=0

1950 Champion Starlight
1963 Hawk GT
Santa Barbara
CA

studegary
08-13-2006, 10:10 PM
I hope that no other exhaust is like that. It looks like a "fix" for a seven inch mismatch in length.

The bigger problem that I see is that it looks like the power steering hose or hoses will be burned through in short order.

Gary L.
Wappinger, NY
1954 Commander Starliner (restomod)
1959 DeLuxe pickup (restomod)

Tom B
08-13-2006, 10:12 PM
Gain an inch, put the nuts on top.

Tom Bredehoft
'53 Commander Coupe
'60 Lark VI
'05 Legacy Ltd Wagon
All three Indiana built cars

hank63
08-13-2006, 11:58 PM
And a heat shield for piece of mind, perhaps.
/H

sbca96
08-14-2006, 02:00 AM
Dick,

I think you have a Lark head pipe on there, it looks like its hanging
too low compared to the frame. I dont remember my 60 Hawk sitting in
that manner. Its also possible that someone put a heat riser on the
drivers side. There should only be ONE heat riser, and its on the
passenger side. I know it sounds like a long shot, but feel down in
that area and see if there is a inch thick block in between the head
pipe and manifold. I got some good work done YEARS ago at Goleta
Muffler and Brake. Dont know if the same people run it, but its not
in the same building anymore.

Tom

N8N
08-14-2006, 05:16 PM
here's some pics of the exhaust on my '55 (same chassis, headpipe is a little different to clear the 6V starter but should be close) it does hang pretty low, but not *that* low.

http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel/55coupe4.html

I agree that something isn't right with that headpipe, I'd just buy a new one from SASCO, or if you have a stainless fetish like yours truly, Don Simmons (Silvertone Exhaust)

good luck,

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

PackardV8
08-14-2006, 05:33 PM
Not to worry. It will most likely be ripped off by speed bumps before it has a chance to burn holes in the power steering hose

PackardV8

starlightchamp
08-14-2006, 06:13 PM
Many thanks-I thought it looked too low. Car hasn't moved but 30 feet since I bought it
in April. Fixed a lot of stuff but hadn't started on the lower chassis. No speed bump worry-
it will have more clearance before hitting(no pun intended) the road. The hoses are not as close as the photo shows but I think I'll dress them farther away and clamp anyway.
Lokks like a new header is in order.

...Dick

1950 Champion Starlight
1963 Hawk GT
Santa Barbara
CA

KGlowacky
08-14-2006, 06:23 PM
Looks like an upgrade from some of the fixes that went on in the 60's. I remember some owners using old tomato and green bean cans to connect two pieces of exhaust that had rusted. Boy have to times changed. GET UR DONE.

sbca96
08-14-2006, 06:35 PM
Be careful of clamping the hoses, or tieing them up too tight, they
need to move back and forth with the valve assembly on the steering
arm. Studebakers power steering worked well, but is MUCH more of a
complicated item then the power box GM had later. Would be nice if
Phantom would develop a power box with a quicker ratio like the ones
that Flaming River makes for GM. This would make rack & pinion swaps
a thing of the past. Slow steering is pretty much what "dates" the
Studebaker front suspension. I think Phantom would have a big seller.

Tom

PackardV8
08-14-2006, 07:57 PM
Slow steering and LACK OF POSITIVE CASTER. Most of the complaints I see with Studebaker steering come from the lack of caster design to make it easier to park before power steering. This is why it won't flat-tow, won't track straight on the freeway and feels darty when fast ratio steering arms are installed.

Am working on this and hope to post a fix someday soon.

thnx, jv.

PackardV8

blackhawk
08-15-2006, 03:41 AM
quote:Originally posted by PackardV8

Slow steering and LACK OF POSITIVE CASTER. Most of the complaints I see with Studebaker steering come from the lack of caster design to make it easier to park before power steering. This is why it won't flat-tow, won't track straight on the freeway and feels darty when fast ratio steering arms are installed.
My '63 Hawk steers well without power steering and will track straight for long stretches on the freeway, hands off the steering wheel. It also tows fine too. When I got out of the Army in '71, I towed the Hawk behind my '61 Lark wagon from Fort Hood, Texas, to Seattle. I drove 70 mph for much of the way and hardly knew it was behind me; even drove at night. I'm not saying that others may not be having trouble with their car's steering, but mine works fine for what it is worth. Dale

N8N
08-15-2006, 09:21 AM
If I understand things correctly, a few parts were changed sometime before 1963 which changed the caster angle from actual negative caster to appx. zero caster. Positive caster would be best for high speed, straight line stability, but zero is better than negative. (I hope I got my terminology correct; I can visualize what I'm trying to say but I can never keep my conventions straight.)

I have actually considered trying to track down some late model suspension parts for my '55 to rectify this on my car and see if there isn't enough adjustment to actually achieve a small amount of negative caster (I have PS so steering effort is not an issue) but I haven't been that motivated yet. I also completely rebuilt the front suspension when I started working on the car so this would fall under the category of "rework" which I dont like very much :(

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

nels
08-15-2006, 06:38 PM
On the exhaust clearance. Are you running stock exhaust manifolds or do you possibly have the longer runner R3 type which require shorter pipes? Just a shot in the dark.
On the caster angle. Stude changed king pin and lower support for the angle change in 1961 on all models except the Hawk. The Hawk was changed in '62. I always crank max pos caster into all my cars then set camber. If you can't get any pos caster this way you can cheat a little by off centering the lower support toward the front of the car. Worn holes in the frame at the upper control arm support can also cost caster.