No Brakes

[camden]

I went for a ride last night, and at the first stop sign I steped on the brake pedal, and it went almost to the floor. After driving it back home very slowly and into the garage it had even less pedal. There was on sign of brake fluid leaking, but the remote fill was empty. I filled it than tried the brakes, but still no pedal. I assume the master cyl is the problem, but can't fig. where the fluid is going. Its a 63 Hawk with power disc brakes. Could it also be the booster? Is there a way to check it?

[Skip Lackie]

If the booster is bad, engine vacuum can suck brake fluid out of the master cylinder through the booster. Try disconnecting the booster (plug the port on the manifold), refill the m/c and bleed, and take for a slow, local drive. The brakes will require a lot of pedal pressure, but you should have brakes.

Skip Lackie
Washington DC

[bowss@aol.com]

If you are not seeing any brake fluid leaking on the floor below the car, pull the master cylinder and see if it is leaking our of the rear of the master into the booster.

[Dick Steinkamp]

quote:Originally posted by bowss@aol.com

If you are not seeing any brake fluid leaking on the floor below the car, pull the master cylinder and see if it is leaking our of the rear of the master into the booster.

On a Hawk, the booster is remote from the master.

With ANY car...especially an old one...do what pilots do. TEST the brakes the first time you have the car barely rolling to insure they work.

[camden]

I disconnected the remote fill so I could remove the m/cyl cap, and filled the m/cyl pumped the pedal a couple of times and I had good brakes again. Took it for a drive. When I returned after several stops in a large empty parking lot and checked the m/cyl it was down about 1/2", but still no sign of leaks. Removed all wheels to check closer but still no sign. I am going to remove the rear drums tomorrow to make sure its not the wheel cyl. I am thinking for now its the remote booster.

[ROADRACELARK]

If it lost as much fluid as you say, you'd see it running down the inside of the wheel/tire, if it was a leaking wheel cylinder. On the booster, you might pull the vacuum hose and check for any brake fluid there. As Skip says,when they fail, sometimes the engine vacuum will pull brake fluid into the engine.[xx(][xx(] NOT GOOD at all! Hope this helps.

Dan Miller
Atlanta, GA

[img=left]http://static.flickr.com/57/228744729_7aff5f0118_m.jpg[/img=left]
Road Racers turn left AND right.

[camden]

You are correct, I pulled the vac hose off and there was brake fluid at that connection. Don't no why I didn't do that sooner. Thanks. Now for the expensive part getting it fixed.

[Warren Webb]

I seem to remember a guy named "Booster Dewey" a few years ago doing rebuilds & I believe he had advertized in Turning Wheels. You might google his name & see what comes up.

60 Lark convertible
61 Champ
62 Daytona convertible
63 G.T. R-2,4 speed
63 Avanti (2)
66 Daytona Sport Sedan

[PlainBrownR2]

A little late on my part, but while the resevoir is off of the car, have a look at the bore and the piston that actuates the fluid. I had a similar situation on my Lark which resulted in having a honing of the bore due to pitting and a rebuild of the resevoir and its components.

[Deaf Mute]

I had my Avanti booster rebuilt last year with good results. Rebuilder was:

MIDWEST REMANUFACTURING, LLC
5836 West 66th Street
Bedford Park, IL 60638
708+496-9100

They are located just South of Chicago's Midway Airport.
Cost was 125.00 (plus core) and $16 UPS... total $141.00

Duane Miller,
Eldridge, IA


duane miller