Paint removal

[satdoc2]

I have a 57 Silver Hawk that needs the existing paint and primer removed down to the metal, It is cracking and peeling because of a bad paint job. What is the best way to remove it.
Allen

[wolfie]

Depends on how far you want to strip the car(engine/trans out etc).Sandblasting,aircraft stripper,or if your paint is already peeling maybe simply 80 grit sandpaper and a DA are options.Start with the DA as it is the least destructive of these options.Ive had good luck with a razor blade and simply cut the old paint off then sand away the primer,just take your time and dont "knick" the metal underneath.Steve

[bams50]

I couldn't find the thread on a quick look, but there was just this week a thread about sandblasting, complete with cautions; maybe someone can find it and give a link. As Wolfie said, a DA is the least messy. If the paint is thick, maybe chemical stripping first, followed by sanding. I thing of sandblasting as only for total restorations, as it makes a huge mess, hiding in every little nook and cranny- not good if the car is assembled. Also, it's easy to warp or damage sheet metal if you're not experienced. Soda blasting is gentler, but I've never done that, while I have done the others.

I recommend DA sanding first, chemical next, sandblasting only as a last resort.



Robert (Bob) Andrews Owner- Studebakeracres- on the IoMT (Island of Misfit Toys!)
Parish, central NY 13131

"Some people live for the rules, I live for exceptions"- 311

"With your Lark you're on your own, free as a bird, alive as a Lark. You've suddenly discovered that happiness is a thing called Larking!"

[rockne10]

I've used a lot of Aircraft Remover. It must be good stuff as there's not an aircraft to be seen here.[)]

[Tom Bredehoft]

I concur with Brad, I just stripped a door on my 55 that had been Bondo'd 30 plus years ago. Once I got used to the action, it went down to metal in one pass. The door is still on the car, vertical, paint it on as heavy as it will hold, wait for it to pucker and peel it off. Wash with water spritzer, wipe, sand by hand and prime.

[img=left]http://www.alink.com/personal/tbredehoft/Avatar.jpg[/img=left]
Tom Bredehoft
'53 Commander Coupe
'55 President (6H Y6) State Sedan
(Under Construction) 322 hrs.
'05 Legacy Ltd Wagon
All Indiana built cars

[Swifster]

I'll mention this as it hasn't been mentioned yet...Chemical Dip. This is probably the most expensive way to go, and depending on how the job is completed, can be beautiful or a nightmare.

Chemical dipping is done by a company called Redi-Strip or similar. The whole shell is literally lowered into a chemical bath removing all the paint and rust. Obviously this is good, but it can bring up stuff you don't expect.

First, what may have looked solid may now be swiss cheese. Not because it attacked the good metal, but that there was so much rust to attack that was holding the car together along with the paint. Also, if there was any prior repairs and plastic filler was used, you'll see it. The stuff uncovers everything.

Second, the chemical needs to be nuetralized once the car is removed from the dip. Obviously the dip gets into every nook and cranny. If not properly nuetralized, there have been cases of dip seeping out of a nook or cranny and damaging a painted surface (usually somewhere on the underside of the car). Also, as the dip is leaving clean metal, unless it's painted, coated or otherwise covered with something, you now have a place for rust to start right away.

Ideally, you'd want the car dipped in 'E-coat', which is an electrically charged primer similar to the coating on the car when new. Because it's dipped, it gets into all these nooks and crannys, it eliminates the chemical drip from the dip. It also provides a good base to start your body work and painting on.

The cost usually depends on the size of the part/shell to be treated. I had this done in 1990, and to have a full size Plymouth Fury shell dipped and E-coated ran about $2500 in 1990 dollars. This also included the doors, used deck lid and used hood (I had NOS fenders). The car came out great, but I had to replace what I had thought were solid floors, rocker panels and quarter panels. I've done this with individual parts as well like air cleaner bases, sub-frames and other multipiece parts.

This isn't for everyone because of the cost. In fact, I'd limit this to a high dollar restoration that you can get your money out of unless you plan on keeping the car 40 years. It's also hard to find someone who does E-coat. Many open and then close. There is a restoration shop in Wisconsin that offers stripping and coating but they are not cheap. The cost for both the last I checked was $6500 for both. There was talk that PPG was going to use a Flint plant used for paint system set up for this purpose but I'm unsure that it happened. Check Hemmings if you are interested.

I'm not suggesting this is best for your application. Everyone has there way of doing something. For some media blasting is the way to go, other dip, and still others use paint stripper and a DA. None of them are wrong. It's what's best for you. Good luck.

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Tom - Mulberry, FL

1964 Studebaker Daytona - 289 4V, 4-Speed (Cost To Date: $2125.60)

[52 Ragtop]

Tom,
I agree with you, the best way is to dip strip and then dip in e-coat. But, if you do use aircraft stripper, use 2" tape over the door jams, trunk jam and hood jams, that keeps the stripper from running down into the jams and making a bigger mess!!

Jim

[satdoc2]

I not familiar with "DA".
Allen

[52-fan]

I beleive DA stands for dual action, meaning the sander can sand straight back and forth or random orbital where it does not repeat the same action. The random orbital setting is less likely to cause grooves or waves in the surface.


1952 Champion Starlight, 1962 Daytona.Searcy,Arkansas
"I may be lazy, but I'm not shiftless."

[Swifster]

quote:Originally posted by 52-fan

I beleive DA stands for dual action, meaning the sander can sand straight back and forth or random orbital where it does not repeat the same action. The random orbital setting is less likely to cause grooves or waves in the surface.

This is true. DA has turned into a generic body shop term for your sander of choice.

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Tom - Mulberry, FL

1964 Studebaker Daytona - 289 4V, 4-Speed (Cost To Date: $2125.60)

[studegary]

For the original heavy enamel Studebaker paint job, I would recommend, and have used, a good grade of chemical stripper. Do not get carried away with it and be neat - not sloppy.

Gary L.
Wappinger, NY

SDC member since 1968
Studebaker enthusiast much longer

[rusty65]

I just sent away for some POR-STRIP to remove the (Sherwin Williams)paint where my vinyl top used to be.I'll let you guys know how it went when I get around to doing this.

[rusty65]

UPDATE: I used the POR-STRIP on the Sherman Williams painted roof, first in a fine spray and then in a pretty heavy dousing.It didn't move/reduce/take away the paint at all.However,I managed to have some land on the original paint on the rear quarter (just a few drops)and it took it down to bare metal.I may have to go with a gel type stripper or maybe some laquer thinner.I don't know yet.

[wcarroll@outrageous.net]

I would Soda-Blast it. It's inexpensive, safe, portable and leaves a great start for paint.

Chemical dipping is a good way to go if you know the car has considerable rust issues, because it will eat all the rust. But it is super expensive and all filler and putty must be removed before the car/panels can be dipped. There's also a good chance it will bleed if not thoroughly cleaned -ruining your new paint. And the car needs to be primed or sealed ASAP after dipping & cleaning.

Sandblasting is okay, but risky due to the heat and pressure which can cause warping of the sheetmetal. Blasting with walnut shells would be a far better option.

http://community.webshots.com/user/s2dbaker?vhost=community

[Warren Webb]

Chemical stripping is the way to go with the exception of deck lids & other makes hoods due to the removal of the insulating "tabs" or small globs of tar that are placed between the outer & inner shells to prevent them from vibrating while the car is in motion. On Studes the deck lids were assembled with a mat-like material that would be impossible to duplicate. On these areas either media blasting or careful d-a sanding would be preferred.

60 Lark convertible
61 Champ
62 Daytona convertible
63 G.T. R-2,4 speed
63 Avanti (2)
66 Daytona Sport Sedan