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View Full Version : Getting ready to pull engine - UPDATE: it's out!



showbizkid
10-29-2006, 11:21 AM
Well, I spent yesterday prepping the Lark some for pulling the engine next weekend. Pulled off the accessories, radiator, carb etc. Found a few things from the PO that I'll have to make right while the engine is out (in addition to the suspension... the front end is worn so bad that the front tires are visibly canting out at the bottom, running on the inside of the tread).

Now I have a couple of questions :D What will I need to undo underneath the car? I know I'll have to disconnect the driveshaft; what do I need to do that? Where do I disconnect the transmission and throttle linkages?

I read something in the manual about disconnecting one of the steering linkages. Is that really needed, or can I get away without it?

ANY and ALL suggestions and warnings about potential "gotchas" are highly welcome - this'll be the first time I've ever pulled an engine and my confidence level is not high [:I]


[img=left]http://members.cox.net/clarknovak/lark.gif[/img=left]

Clark in San Diego
'63 F2/Lark Standard
http://studeblogger.blogspot.com

studegary
10-29-2006, 01:04 PM
If this is your first pull, the main advice that I have is to go slow. No matter what we tell you to disconnect, something will probably be forgotten. As you start the pull, go slow and easy. Stop and look for something still hooked up or an obstruction. It is not really difficult if you take your time. You didn't mention exhaust. There are different places that you can disconnect, like drop the manifolds, disconnect the head pipes, cut the exhaust pipe, but one way will have to be done.

Gary L.
Wappinger, NY

1959 DeLuxe pickup (restomod)

Roscomacaw
10-29-2006, 02:21 PM
You should be able to turn the steering to one side to get the bellcrank out of the way. If you've got a single exhaust setup, I'd suggest making sure the starter's removed as it want's to play with the RH pipe on a single exhast arrangement. If you've got duals (and there's no balance or "crossover" pipe connecting the two pipes), they should move around enough to let the engine out with the starter in place. I'd remove it either way, myself.
Also remove the accelerator bellcrank from the left head. This will play heck with the firewall and wiring or cables on the way out. I said something earlier about taking the dist. cap off, but pulling the distributor altogether would be even better. You don't want it gnawing on the firewall as you lift the engine up.:(
Remove the entire water pump manifold too. The more clearance the better![^]

Miscreant adrift in
the BerStuda Triangle!!

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe

showbizkid
10-29-2006, 08:02 PM
Thanks guys. I'll go pull the water manifold off and take out the distrib tomorrow. Question: once I unbolt the accellerator bellcrank, what is it attached to? Will it just hang there by itself?

I have a dual exhaust setup with no crossover, and the pipes clamp on just after the collectors, so that should be easy.

I'm really unclear about getting the transmission free. Last time I asked, y'all recommended I take it out with the engine instead of leaving it in the car - what do I need to keep in mind for this? It's an FOM column-shift.

Sorry to sound so needy! I'm one of those guys that likes to know absolutely everything before I start a project. My wife accuses me of procrastinating, but I just figure forewarned is forearmed, y'know? ;)


[img=left]http://members.cox.net/clarknovak/lark.gif[/img=left]

Clark in San Diego
'63 F2/Lark Standard
http://studeblogger.blogspot.com

Studebayker
10-29-2006, 08:22 PM
Anything that attaches to the engine has to be disconnected. If you
pull the transmission with the engine you will want the balance point
just behind the carb so it won't stand on its tail when you lift the engine. Dont forget the speedo cable, or the ground straps. Any wire
that hooks to the engine(been there done that). You can get a plastic
plug that will fit in the tail shaft of the transmission to keep all
of the oil from running out when you pull the engine. one quart of
transmission fluid will cover approximately 5 acres if you don't.
Main thing is go slow you WILL suceed!!


James K. Clark
Eastern Tn.
'55 Prez Starlight Hdtp.
Don't take yourself too seriously!

James K. Clark

John Kirchhoff
10-29-2006, 09:18 PM
When you disconnect any wiring, it helps to fold together a piece of masking tape and write on it in pen what it goes to. After things have been torn apart for a while, wires all begin looking alike and you don't want to fry any wiring by connecting the wrong ones.

studeclunker
10-30-2006, 02:12 AM
I've removed the engines from my Larks here in Lewiston more times than I'd like to remember. Pull the whole front clip. I know it sounds like a pain, and it is, but doing this process with the clip in place is a pain in the wazoo. Don't forget to follow the instructions in the Shop Manual as well.

A buddy will be essential. There are between six and eight bolts in the back of the fenders, the radiator frame mounts, and the bumper and hood will have to be removed. You'll want to make sure the heels of the front fenders are padded when you put it down. Front as well. Then set the hood in it's normal place. Believe me, it's time consuming, but I've always found this to make things much simpler. If you're going to be working on the front end, this makes it much easier to get to the suspension etc...

Take your time and Good luck!

Oh! I almost forgot, the drive shaft. It just slides out the back of the transmission.

Lotsa Larks!
K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Studebaker!
Ron Smith

Roscomacaw
10-30-2006, 01:33 PM
Sorry Ron, I have to disagree with you on pulling the clip. Putting that clip BACK ON (without scratching up paint) and getting it all aligned right again is more trouble than pulling the engine.[:I]

Clark, the accelerator linkage from the carb and also the throttle pressure link to the tranny has to come loose. It'll be self-evident. Talking a nut and maybe a cotter pin in all.:)

Miscreant adrift in
the BerStuda Triangle!!

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe

StudeDave57
10-30-2006, 07:45 PM
Clark~
It seems to me that just taking off the front panel is how I saw Dad do it many, many, many moons ago. Also~ don't sweat the cover/plug for the trans- I'll bring something that'll work when I come up there to help... ;) You'll get a kick out of it, I'm sure!!!


StudeDave [8D]
V/P San Diego County SDC
San Diego, Ca

'54 Commander 4dr 'Ruby'
'57 Parkview (it's a 2dr wagon...) 'Betsy'
'57 Commander 2dr 'Baby'
'57 Champion 2dr 'Jewel'
'58 Packard sedan 'Cleo'
'65 Cruiser 'Sweet Pea'

studeclunker
10-30-2006, 09:10 PM
You may be right Biggsie! In my case, the paint job is the least of my worries!:D

Lotsa Larks!
K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Studebaker!
Ron Smith

showbizkid
10-30-2006, 11:39 PM
Y'know, I've been knawing my knuckles raw about this [xx(] Thanks to you all for helping soothe my worried mind! Guess I'm just anxious to do it right :)


[img=left]http://members.cox.net/clarknovak/lark.gif[/img=left]

Clark in San Diego
'63 F2/Lark Standard
http://studeblogger.blogspot.com

studegary
10-31-2006, 03:36 PM
i agree with Bob/MrBiggs about the front clip. I would not want to try to estimate how many Studebaker engines I have pulled, but I can never remember pulling a front panel or front clip/"doghouse" to pull an engine (and transmission). The hardest one that I remember for putting the engine/transmission back into was a Packard Hawk. That is a small hood opening.

Gary L.
Wappinger, NY

1959 DeLuxe pickup (restomod)

showbizkid
11-05-2006, 12:37 AM
It's out of the car! Big, BIG thanks to StudeDave57, who came up with Sweet Pea and helped get it out. We started at 10 and ended up around 5; my friend John came over too and frankly, Dave and John did most of the hard work - but I learned a whole lot. The hardest part was figuring out how to support the tailshaft while we were lifting it out; Dave's floor jack and a piece of 1x12 helped out with that ;)

Anyway, it's now crouching on a pallet in my side yard like a big greasy dog. I've got to separate the trans and then it's up to StudeKen in Three Rivers for a rebuild.

Thanks to everyone for your helpful advice and BIG PROPS again to Dave. I owe you large, buddy! :D[8D][^]


[img=left]http://members.cox.net/clarknovak/lark.gif[/img=left]

Clark in San Diego
'63 F2/Lark Standard
http://studeblogger.blogspot.com