Installing new bushings

[58PackardWagon]

Just received our bushings from SI. These are all of the bushings for a 63 Lark. Is it best to install them with a little help or without help from a lubricant? If it is better and they slide in more easily, what can you reccomend that will not damage or eat away at the new bushings. My thoughts were a silicon based product. Your input is greatly appreciated.

58 Packard Wgn (Parade Red)
58 Packard Wgn (Park Green)
58 Packard Sdn (Shadowtone Red)
62 Daytona (White)
63 R2 Lark (Super Red)

[PackardV8]

Which bushings, front A-arm, sway bar or rear spring?

thnx, jack vines

PackardV8

[torker]

I thought it was control-arm bushings, since it was plural. On those, Don't you need to keep the bushings in a freezer, and pre-warm the bushing end of the control arm up with a propane torch, so they'll push in easier? S'what I thought, anyway. Your results may vary.

[58PackardWagon]

We are replacing every bushing on the car. Front, rear, upper and lower. This is for an R2 packaged Lark.

58 Packard Wgn (Parade Red)
58 Packard Wgn (Park Green)
58 Packard Sdn (Shadowtone Red)
62 Daytona (White)
63 R2 Lark (Super Red)

[Studeman]

I just did this Saturday (installed inner/outer control-arm bushings) for a '62 Convertible).
-DO NOT lubricate the OUTER shell of the bushing... But you can lubricate the shaft ends and bushing insides.
-You MUST use a SPACER between the control arm ends- as you press/drive the Bushings in (see manual). Otherwise, you WILL collapse the control-arms. I use a piece of angle-iron I made the correct length, with a couple notches to accommodate the mounting lugs of the CA shafts.
-You must install BOTH bushings at the same time, you CANNOT install the shafts after one side is in, but the other isn't.
-The bushings do not get pressed in all the way. There is a 3/16"-1/4" gap between the outer ring on the bushing, and the control-arm.
-DO NOT try to use the bolts to "pull" the bushings onto the shafts.
-The UPPER shaft is NOT symmetrical it only goes in one way- with the "offset" towards the engine. (offsets CA to the outside). On the later shafts, if you install it wrong, you can just spin it 180 deg. Lowers are symmetrical -so it doesn't matter.
-Clean the bolt threads, and the shaft's threads with carb/brake cleaner so they are DRY and free of oil/lube. You may even run a tap in the shafts to chase the threads. Torque the bolts to the proper spec using RED Lock-tite.



Specializing in Studebaker Restoration

[torker]

The inner upper & lower has the rubber bushings with the shell and internal sleeve, does it not? What is the procedure for installing the outer pins? Thanks.

[Studeman]

quote:Originally posted by torker

The inner upper & lower has the rubber bushings with the shell and internal sleeve, does it not? What is the procedure for installing the outer pins? Thanks.

That depends on "how" you choose to do the rebuild (on/off the car. I much prefer to rebuild everything at once... inners/outers/kingpins.

The upper-outer pin is fairly easy. I use a chain wrapped over the frame in front and behind the control arms... and running under a quality floor jack.

http://ncsdc.com/TechnicalPages/FrontSuspension/FrontSuspension.html

Jack until the pressure is off the upper control-arm. Remove the center pinch-bolt completely. Remove the outer bushings with a impact wrench. Push the upper pin out of the kingpin. Reverse the above to re-install- BUT be SURE to use the correct spreader-tool to reinstall the bushings (Chuck Collins-studebakerparts.com).


The lower is a whole different animal. I would not even attempt to change it "on the car". Remove the lower control arm and kingpin. Remove the lower-outer bushings with an impact wrench. Remove the rubber seals. Work the lower shaft/kingpin out of the control arm. Place kingpin (upside-down) securely in a vise. Clean all the grease/dirt away from the lower pin. You should see a LOCK-PIN driven into the kingpin, at the center of the lower shaft. This must be driven out of the kingpin from the BOTTOM. You MUST use a BLUNT punch!!! DO NOT use a pointed punch- as this will only spread the pin and make it impossible to remove. I have never been successful in doing this without HEATING the lower kingpin around the pin.. red-hot. I have even had to drill the pin 1/2 way to get it out on occasion. Once the lock-pin is out, the rest is straightforward. But you MUST use the spreader tool (above) again.






Specializing in Studebaker Restoration

[bams50]

Wow, great info, Studeman. This will be a big help for me as well.

Thanks for taking the time to post it.



Robert (Bob) Andrews Owner- Studebakeracres- on the IoMT (Island of Misfit Toys!)
Parish, central NY 13131

"Some people live for the rules, I live for exceptions"- 311

"With your Lark you're on your own, free as a bird, alive as a Lark. You've suddenly discovered that happiness is a thing called Larking!"

[showbizkid]

When I did mine, no way was that lock pin coming out. I am fully convinced that in 46 years and 200,nnn miles, no one had ever rebuilt the front end, and those pins were in there to stay.

After I removed the lower arms, I unscrewed the outer bushings and found that there was enough room for the knuckle support and outer pin to slip out of the A-arm. Then I took the support and pin to my local machine shop and had them press out the pins.


[img=left]http://members.cox.net/clarknovak/lark.gif[/img=left]

Clark in San Diego
'63 F2/Lark Standard

http://studeblogger.blogspot.com

https://www.studebakersandiego.com

[buddymander]

Lube them with water.

[torker]

Thanks, Studeman, etal. Funny, I was just looking at the Chuck Collins' catalogue the other day, and saw that spreader tool, wondering if I was going to need it.

[jcstude]

Ok, Ray, do you know where to find the correct dimension is for the A-arm ends? My car is a mix and match mess put together out of piles of spare parts by previous owners. Who's to say that the dimension that exists is not out of specs.