Overdrive Govenor Rebuild

[61Lark]

The overdrive has decided to stop working in my 64 Daytona so I got out the shop manual and started working through the steps. The third step is to jumper the two terminals on the governor while the ignition is on. I heard a click so the manual told me to replace or rebuild the govenor. My question is how do I rebuild the govenor? I pulled it out and spung it with a drill and checked with an ohm meter and it seems to work fine.

Thanks,
Nick

[Roscomacaw]

If the ohmmeter says it's working, then it's probably not the governor! Is the gear that drives the governor in good shape? How about the gear that it meshes with?
Beyond that, the solenoid could click alright, but there might be something wrong with the mechanical parts IN the overdrive section.[}]

Miscreant Studebaker nut in California's central valley.

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President two door

[61Lark]

Both the gears are in good shape. I rigged up a bypass switch tonight so I'm going to take it out tomorrow morning and see if the overdrive still works. The solenoid was new about 5 years ago or 2000 miles, and the whole unit was gone through shortly after that.

Nick

[61Lark]

I checked the over drive this morning by bypassing the govenor and still nothing. I checked the wiring and everything checks out. Does this mean there is a mechanical problem? I have a 63 Lark with over drive that I'm converting to a 4 speed so I could use that unit, assuming it works, but would I also have to use the 63 od wiring harness?

Thanks,
Nick

[OzarkPetunia]

Please be patient with me as I describe this... I'll try to avoid terms like "that thingy", but I don't know what the right terms are...

I have exactly the same symptoms with my Flight Hawk and a VERY experienced Studebakerist told me to back the nut off that's at the back of the transmission in the yoke where the drive shaft connects, then tighten it back up. He swore that he did that and it fixed the problem.

A week after he told me to do that, his OD failed again and all the electrical stuff checked out so he did that and it's fine.

It didn't work when I tried it but we didn't tap on it to make sure it was free before putting the nut back on so unless someone else out there has some new ideas (short of trying a new solenoid) I think we'll try again. I'm reeeeeeeeally hoping to avoid learning how to take apart the mechanical OD stuff.

~Rose

Fayetteville, AR

[61Lark]

Rose,

Thanks for the advice, but I believe you are talking about an earlier C/K with the two piece drive shaft. I pulled the drive shaft in my 64 and there is no such nut.

However I did fix the problem. While I was robbing parts off another car I noticed the arm for the over drive lock out. So I went back and pulled it all the way back on the 64's transmission and now it works like a charm. Only took me two days to find, but its better than going to work. Plus I know for next time.

Nick

[Tom Bredehoft]

That ought to be the first commandment in the trouble shooting sequence, verify that the lever is ALL THE WAY BACK.

[img=left]http://www.alink.com/personal/tbredehoft/Avatar.jpg[/img=left]
Tom Bredehoft
'53 Commander Coupe
'55 President (6H Y6) State Sedan
(Under Construction) 275 hrs.
'05 Legacy Ltd Wagon
All Indiana built cars

[Roscomacaw]

Echoing what Tom B says!

Miscreant Studebaker nut in California's central valley.

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President two door

[OzarkPetunia]

My "supervisor" made sure I checked the lever first and it is indeed all the way back. (I have to manually push it back every 100 miles or so because it creeps forward a smidge.)

So any other ideas on my non-engaging OD?

Thanks!
Rose

Fayetteville, AR