Brake light switch

[Bill Pressler]

I noticed today that I have no brake lights in my Daytona unless I absolutely STAND on the pedal. I also noticed some fluid when I brush my hand across the switch in the bottom of the (drum-brake, dual-chamber) master cylinder. The switch is two years old. Silicone fluid. Does this mean the switch is "goin' south"? I'm assuming that's the case. Any suggestions for brand of switch to get?

Thanks,
Bill Pressler
Kent, OH
'63 Lark Daytona Skytop R1

[mbstude]

The standard Stude switch won't stand up to the silicone fluid. Get a switch for a Harley Davidson.

Matthew Burnette
Hazlehurst, GA

[64V-K7]

If you put a few drops of DOT3 or 4 into a regular brake light switch before installing it on cars that use silicone fluid, it will last a good while. The old stuff either buffers or conditions the switch and keep it in service longer. It's a lot cheaper than buying a Harley switch.
Then there's always the route of using a mechanical switch..

Bob Johnstone

http://www.studebaker-info.org

55 President State Sedan
64 GT Hawk
70 Avanti (R3)

[Bill Pressler]

I'm assuming the Harley switch will fit without any special "rigging" of any sort?

Thanks,
Bill Pressler
Kent, OH
'63 Lark Daytona Skytop R1

quote:Originally posted by mbstude

The standard Stude switch won't stand up to the silicone fluid. Get a switch for a Harley Davidson.

Matthew Burnette
Hazlehurst, GA

[mbstude]

As far as I know it will work without any mods. I've personally not tried it, just heard from others that have.

Matthew Burnette
Hazlehurst, GA

[Tom Bredehoft]

If I remember the discussion correctly, the Harley switch has two flat tabs instead of the two round pins on Stude switches. You have to change the terminals on your wires.

[img=left]http://www.alink.com/personal/tbredehoft/Bothcars4.jpg[/img=left]
Tom Bredehoft
'53 Commander Coupe
'55 President (6H Y6) State Sedan
(Under Construction) 229 hrs.
'05 Legacy Ltd Wagon
All Indiana built cars

[Dick Steinkamp]

quote:Originally posted by Tom B

If I remember the discussion correctly, the Harley switch has two flat tabs instead of the two round pins on Stude switches. You have to change the terminals on your wires.

Yes, but...if he's running a dual M/C, I would guess the originality of the brake light switch connectors is not a big deal. I think the Harley switch is the same on Ron Francis sells...

http://tinyurl.com/6f9koe

...it comes with the correct connectors for the wires AND turns on the brake lights at a much lower pressure than the original.

[Retired]

If space permits, install a forty five degree fitting on the MC facing up. With the switch in the up position the silicon will drain back away from the vital parts of the switch. Recommended by Jon Myer and it works fine on my '63 Avanti

[Son O Lark]

I went thru 2 Harley switches in a year with silicone brake fluid.[xx(] I bought one from NAPA. It looked like new manufacturing. It's lasted 2 years now. I don't think the Harley switches can take the pressure. My '63 has the same master cylinder you described.(dual w/o disc brakes)

[Bill Pressler]

All, thanks for the advice.

Dick, I ordered the Ron Francis switch you noted. I had never heard of the outfit before!

The switch, now installed, works perfectly and with way less pedal-pressure. I have to be complimentary of the Ron Francis Co. as I ordered the part this past Wed. morning, and it arrived at my home by UPS today (Sat. morning).

Thanks again all! Now I can drive with more confidence the 70 or so miles each way next week to country-'burg Fredonia, PA for the American Legion post's annual car show there!

Bill Pressler
Kent, OH
'63 Lark Daytona Skytop R1

quote:Originally posted by Dick Steinkamp

quote:Originally posted by Tom B

If I remember the discussion correctly, the Harley switch has two flat tabs instead of the two round pins on Stude switches. You have to change the terminals on your wires.

Yes, but...if he's running a dual M/C, I would guess the originality of the brake light switch connectors is not a big deal. I think the Harley switch is the same on Ron Francis sells...

http://tinyurl.com/6f9koe

...it comes with the correct connectors for the wires AND turns on the brake lights at a much lower pressure than the original.

[bondobilly]

quote:

Yes, but...if he's running a dual M/C, I would guess the originality of the brake light switch connectors is not a big deal. I think the Harley switch is the same on Ron Francis sells...

http://tinyurl.com/6f9koe

...it comes with the correct connectors for the wires AND turns on the brake lights at a much lower pressure than the original.
[/quote]


That brings up an interesing question. In the 1956 Service Manual is states to adjust the brake pedal with 3/8 th on aninch of free play before it engages the master cylinder. Then adjust the brakes according to..............

Now I have used the brake light switch as a guide to determine when the push rod actually is engaging the master cylinder, then backing off the adjusting screw a turn or two once I get brake lights.

Based on what you said that this switch comes on line at less pressure can I assume that the "free play" the Manual speaks of is a trial and error type of setting? I just ordered one of the switches myself.